BK

I know what you're talking about. I have them on my 32, and yes you do need double sided tape on the genuine Nismo rear guard upper area. Also interestingly, there is a difference in the underneath screws between stock and Nismo within Nissan fast. I believe they are longer, and I'm sure the Kudos assembled kit is the stock length.

Hi mate. I saw your post on the Haltech forum about the 16 pin connector. Refer to my earlier post, I said "lift up", not lift up and completely remove the centre tab bit. It's not supposed to move far. After looking at what you've done to the connector you've probably stuffed it, as that centre part is not supposed to come right out, and won't, unless there is no pins in it. I'd be replacing the entire thing now. It's just a lock for the pins. You stick something sharp to flick it up no more than a mm just to release it, put your pin in, hear it click, and then snap the tab back down. Click Do you even have a crimper that will do the pin ? As I said it's pretty specific. I good one that works and is cheaper than an AMP / TYCO crimper is the Jaycar one. You want something that doesn't ratchet for such small pins. Note the small end part- Works well.

Pressure is heavier with the 1350kg pressure plate than any Nismo or stock clutch of course, but lighter than say an OS Giken R3C which has a lighter pressure plate. There is an 1100kg pressure plate version which would help, but I think they are fine the way the are. Rattle ? Of course it rattles when pedal depressed and clutch disengaged - it's a solid triple plate.

It probably is. Even the PAR standard Nissan 25.4mm / 24 tooth spline size input shaft will be an upgrade over the standard original gearbox input shaft with the same spline measurements, because it is thicker on the non splined section. It's also made out of superior material to standard. It's like how OS giken have an "uprated" input shaft that is still the Nissan 24 tooth spline available, it's bigger on the rest of the shaft. The stock GTR/GTSt box input is very small - lucky to be 20mm on the non splined section. I'll measure a stock one and report back next time I have one in my hands.

I can't believe you had so much trouble getting the shafts out ?! Anyway good to see you're progressing !

Horses for courses really, as opinions and results are always going to vary. As mentioned there are far better options than the Nismo though. Using a clutch from a manufacturer that primarily only make clutches is generally a better bet.

Look on Haltech how to do it, as your Flex 12v (not 5v), GND and SPI pins should all go to this AUX connector. You don't pull the connector apart. You crimp your wire on and insert it from the rear into the connector. Be careful though, before inserting pin into connector there is a tab on the back that you lift up, then push back down to lock into position. You won't seat the pin properly without doing this. Also the pins are a prick to crimp, as they are meant for 20awg wire and need the correct crimper, or be extremely skilled with long nose pliers. Not really for the novice

Primarily circuit work and 600hp at wheels, I'd be going with the straight cut dog engagement box with big input and billet centre plate. First gear synchro problems is generally an uncommon thing, and is usually caused by clutches not disengaging properly, causing synchro wear. Definitely get a better clutch when you do your box if your Nismo isn't even a twin. Best bang for buck twin plate at the moment seem to be the current Xclutch range. Organic, ceramic, or even their carbons are very competitively priced at around $1500 -$2200 depending on spec. I bang on about the ATS carbon triples being one of the best clutches I've ever seen and used and will always recommend them, but at over $5000 now their not exactly a practical solution for most people.

600hp at wheels or estimated engine 600hp ? Big difference. It's up to you really. I don't rate Nismo clutches at all for other than street driving, so for a decent setup that might have any other use than street that would be the first thing I'd get rid of as there is much better clutches out there. Do you need, or just want another gearbox ?

A good exhaust will lower back pressure, making your turbos not work as hard for whatever your target boost is. 14psi is what you get with the boost restrictor olive removed with at least a 3" system, different front pipe and better cat. Stock actuators are 1 bar, so he's not going to get more than that no matter how derestricted the exhaust system is, unless you were using a boost controller, so it's a non issue really. Absolutely the go if he could still use it in the US / California and get it passed for emissions. I think we are all in agreement that better everything can be achieved with tunable engine management over stock, it just is it worth going down that path just to remove it later.

Your intention is to turn the car back to stock when it goes back to the US, so adding tunable engine management is definitely not required to support basically any setup you have revolving around the factory turbos. Full exhaust, intercooler, 14psi of boost, stock turbos - the stock tune in a 33 GTR is arguably more "correct" tune wise in this state of modification than the restricted state of the stock car. Pulls about 200rwkw like this. Also no boost controller required either, as the restrictor olive in the vacuum line once removed sets the boost to 14psi, which the standard ECU is fine with. A tunable computer will always result in improvements in fuel economy, better a/f ratios and more power, but I really don't see the point if you need to to keep the car completely stock later on. A Power FC is probably your best bet if you want to have it tuned in Japan, and then just remove it and put the stock ECU back in later. If you can get away with tuning it in the US on a different ECU, then absolutely go to a tunable ECU now, but for what your talking about the factory tune can handle all of it safely.

Mate that's a great result, I would say better than expected on 98. The Sard pump and injectors must be getting pretty close to being maxed out though. Good stuff ?

I was going to reply when you first posted this as there is no real "complete" rebuild kit for a gearbox. There is way too much stuff going on for that. You really need to know what you are looking for to repair them, or you take it to a professional. As Hardsteppa mentioned gears on the main shaft are frequently rooted. We just did the old man's GTR box last month and 1st and 2nd were fked. Have a look at the sides of the gear selector section, they should look like arrow heads, unlike these. Also if there is selector teeth completely missing and your drain plug or looks like this, things are bad. New synchro noted on left, one on right stuffed.

Dude it's pretty easy to search that. Not the same as gtst. Gts4 means GTR bearing for the 4WDs as well as the 300zx and genuine is about $230 per side. There is an alternative with the GSP ones from Kudos at $165 each, and that also actually comes with the hub. I'm ordering a pair this week.

What isn't wise ? Using a non drop in camshaft ? Clearancing the head is not such a big deal. Their cams are stupid anyway having so many base circle variations - completely unnecessary, causing custom lifter or retainer thickness changes. No mention of ramp rate duration at 50 thou or lobe separation angles either, so their specs are a bit ambiguous. Their website doesn't list them in the "bolt in" option, but also doesn't mention anything special in the notes either about anything. The Camtech 260deg 9.5mm as big of lift I know of that is a confirmed bolt in, no machining. That said, I reckon even some heads would need slight relieving with them, as the RB26 head is not exactly cast to 0.1mm sort of tolerances. Probably should just stick to Kelfords or Camtech, as you know exactly what you're getting and their local.

You sure they are drop in ? I have some Camtech RB26 cams for sale now. They are 272 at 9.7mm and they are not usable without relieving the head.

Definitely 32 - 34 the same. Go to RHDjapan and check it out, same part number. I'm assuming your talking about the twin 70mm/single 80mm front pipe. 63mm to 85mm, 2-bolt flanges generally have a 105mm bolt hole centre spacing, which is the standard dump pipe, front pipe and cat sizes. Nearly everything uses this size for the bolt on stuff. But bolt hole spacing of flanges change if you go near the twin 75mm/single 90mm pipes though (like the Midori Seibi 90mm). 3.5" / 90mm flanges generally go up to a 118mm bolt hole spacing, meaning different cat flanges and cat back flange. A 90mm, 2-bolt, 105mm bolt hole centre exhaust flange does exist, but I am yet to see any bolt on stuff use it.

Your reference to a side mount implies gtst. Steve is talking about a 33 GTR

The real question I guess is, what does the "new" HKS GTIII-SS Mitsubishi journal bearing chra turbo magically achieve that the Garrett can't in the real world when it comes to performance and REAL, quantifiable, tangible positive results. I am guessing it won't do anything better anywhere, and end up being a complete waste of time and money over just getting the Garrett turbos. Don't believe the hype man. Mate, I think you should have just bought -9s (now gt2859-2) for a better all around result. That said, being in the Californ-i-a maybe the best GTR is a stock, unmodified GTR ? Seems all too hard there.

Speedflow, Proflow and Aeroflow all make them

Been wanting to try these for ages....

Geez well, on this latest incarnation, which I call build 5 on this car I really haven't calculated it yet - but it's a lot. I have a folder that is 3 inches thick that I am going to go through one day. Off the top of my head though $30k for example has gone into just the latest short motor and transmission, but annoyingly that's just I drop in the ocean for this car really. Lets just say the count is six figures since purchase.... This cars spec has always been very fluid, so nothing has ever really stayed the same. 3 different ECU setups, at least 6 different gearbox combinations, 5 different clutch combinations, 3 different blocks, 5 different forged bottom ends including 2 x Nitto 2.8s, never ending fuel pump changes, nearly burning the car down from engine loom melting - the list is endless with changes and failures and it all adds up. Yeah it's been tiring and frustrating, but I think I might have finally got this thing to the vision I imagined for the car. I do have some updates for this car I have to get around to mentioning when I go through my photos, like I finally got to piss my aging Falkens off end of April and get some new AD08R goodness.

Was going to mention that being a bit undersized, but not as much as the fuel system which will just flat out prevent getting there with what is currently installed.

You would hope so.

As above,you don't need them.