BK

And you'll kill another one. There isn't any difference in strength, the synchros are just revised slightly for better shifting. There is bugger all difference between the boxes really, I don't know why Nissan even bothered. About 10 parts were changed.

On a GTR, a real bastard if the box is in the car, as they are up fairly high in the tunnel. I replaced them while my box was out. On the 2wd models it will be a bit easier.

Unless you have the wrong lower bush on the bottom it won't be that. (Note - the R34 GTR has a smaller one than the 32/33 GTR and R34 GTT. The 33 gts is larger than both again). Did you get the right lower bush ? The centre return may appear to "work" fine and spring back to centre, but the springs do fatigue over time creating a sloppy shifter. On one of my GTR boxes the shifter was sloppy as, even with a brand new bush on the bottom and new lower locating cup. Got the gktech spring kit and fitted the 2 hardest springs - completely tightened the stick right up. This is in an h pattern dog box too so it really helps centralise the shift from 2nd to 3rd, which is important. Just try the springs, you will notice a difference.

Look, I don't want this thread to be hijacked with neo vs 26 details, that's for another discussion, but for a start I'd take a 26 head over a neo any day. Look up the differences like neo head shim over bucket vs 26 shim under bucket, 26 unmodified heads flowing far more air than other RBs etc. Someone else can elaborate more on other differences if they want, but the point earlier was referring mainly to replacing the 26 in a GTR with a 25 being a bit silly. Hardly a GTR anymore is it ?

No.

I'm confused by this. You have an R33 GTR and you're saying you pulled the 26 out and replaced it with a neo 25 ? Why on earth would you do that ?

Did you actually run it up on the dyno with just the front pipe to verify ? Just because you looked inside and can see through it doesn't really mean anything, a blocked cat is not always visually obvious, or is there actually no cat converter ?

Looks like your making progress on the collar tool. Since the old man's GTR is in the middle of it's rebuild, we thought why not check the box out and modify the transfer case, which will be getting the 10 plate mod. We're doing the old man's box at the moment now, a no rush inspection, but if you have any questions will be happy to help, as now will be the perfect time to take pics and explain anything while we're doing it at the same time. We will be getting that collar off soon as you can see so I'll try and post it up getting it off, and the process of main and counter shaft getting removed. Notice how thrilled he is to be helping with yet another GTR box....at least this time I'm helping with his bloody box !

That's what I thought. Check it out and let us know the result dude.

OS Giken gearsets are now confirmed in stock again at RHDjapan if anyone is still looking.

I think you'll find that little green trace on the bottom is one of the boost traces that is still being recorded after the full throttle backoff at the end of the run. Both green lines drop straight down and it starts reverse tracing. Drop the exhaust at front pipe and run it again. My 33R went from 330kw to about 200 with a blocked 4inch 200cpi magic cat. Front pipe only run shot straight back up over 340.

Blocked cat, check it first.

Will likely fit is direct replacement mate for superseded part number. Not a guess, a confirmation on replacement. It's a friggen AFM, not like it's unique and not a shared part within Nissan.

Is it not this ? Replacement original part # for 22680-31U00 is B2680-31U05 https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2268031u00#info Nissan Maxima apparently,

Frenchy's performance make reproduction plates with all the original information on it, which can be obtained from Nissan fast. I've been thinking about doing one for my 33 as it looks like this, emailed them they said no problem. I even have new genuine plastic plate retainers purchased from Nissan. Having a new vin plate is an easy fix too, can be any plate with the correct numbering riveted on. The most concerning thing is if your doing anything in the firewall with the original chassis number stamped into it. Without that intact, that is going to cause big problems, as there is no real way to verify what actual chassis and therefore vin it is. It would have to be restamped into firewall, and legally I don't know if you can just do that. This is what your going to have to check with the authorities on. https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/collections/nissan-skyline-r32gt-r/products/blue-nissan-skyline-r32gt-r-id-plate

Nah, not worked up, just that vid almost sent you on a mission stuffing around trying to use a press. I like how he actually didn't show the whole process of completely pressing the shafts out. Like he finished doing it and went, 'um this collar thingy is separate ?" I'm not sure what you've proposed will work. It might, but that collar is really tight. I won't sell my one as will always need it, used it quite a few times, but do you want me to express post mine down to you to use it and maybe copy it ? You can post it back to me when you're done.

The guy in the video is an idiot and should read a manual before uploading shit like this. That collar is the main thing holding the shafts from coming out, it must be removed first, and hence why a factory part was available for removing it. He is trying to press though the counter shaft collar ! ? Once that counter shaft collar is off you should be able to tap both shafts out of the bearings fairly easily, firmly but nothing like requiring a press. The fit on the bearing is nothing like the collar - that is really difficult to get off, hence why you need something fairly chunky to securely pull against. Notice how he said the main shaft pressed easily and that the counter shaft is really hard ? Geez, I wonder why ? He was only pressing the main shaft away from the bearing. Then he's trying to press the counter shaft through the collar and bearing. ?‍♂️ Surprised he didn't snap the standard cast centre plate in half doing that, what a Muppet

Hey just noticed you got around to pulling the gearbox apart. Is it getting the counter shaft separated from the centre plate you're talking about having trouble with that doesn't fit your press ? Before you mod your press again for this, you do realise you don't use a press for that. You need the specific collar so you can put one of your pullers on. I mentioned it in the attached thread last year as someone was having the same issue. I only have a bench press, nothing as elaborate as your setup, as it is not needed for doing these boxes. You need this -

If that oil helps you, your box is pretty stuffed. Redline website "NOT recommended for most synchro applications". You're in a situation where you will have to try out something to see if it improves your situation. That said, if you need any other oil than what is supposed to be in that box, you are really only just covering up a problem that needs fixing.

Don't know if you're aware, but if you get stuck and don't come up with one Frenchy's performance garage have the 32 ECU mounting plates and ECU casings.

The Bosch ones from Kudos are the 980cc / 1000cc ones, not sure why they are advertising as 1250cc. Same thing as from Golebys, EFI hardware, EFI solutions, NZEFI and so on.

I run the old Denso 700cc on the 33 and they are at about 75% duty cycle at 330kw on 98. On the 32 I went from the Denso 1000cc to the Bosch EV14 1550cc - heaps better. Get the Bosch EV14 1000cc as Gtsboy said, best idea

Hi again Matty. Yes same, rail upgrade no. Denso based 10.5 or 11mm injectors all fit into the standard rail. Nearly all of these older direct fit injectors are all made by Denso - Nismo, Power Enterprise, Tomei, Sard, Blitz I suggest you go bigger than 550cc though