BK

Yeah you can (why would you?), but you can't go the other way though. Can't bolt the bigger R32/R33 4.11 crown wheel into the R34 smaller front diff housing in the sump. Who cares though, late 32/33/34 is all the same block / bottom end as Duncan mentioned. 34 head casting is the same as the rest but the exhaust camshaft is different on cas drive, requiring the later cas. That said the 34 cas can be modified to fit the 32/33 cams, so you still wouldn't know what's up without pulling stuff apart.

Exactly. From this very section...

You either have 2 solenoids or one. Stageas are 1996 onwards, so pretty sure they won't be using the R32 single solenoid setup. It's easy to check on Nissan fast, so should be able to find out. Better yet is to check to setup under the right rear guard area. I really doubt the M35 will have only one solenoid, as they are very R33 based. Do you have an active rear diff ?

We've been through this a few times now, but basically it's like this: R32 is the only Attesa that has a single solenoid for pressure operation, and therefore no transfer case preload. Everything after R32 vintage Attesa has dual solenoids as far as I'm aware (definitely on GTRs). One, the failsafe solenoid, keeps a small amount of pressure to the transfer therefore adding transfer case preload. The other second solenoid, is for the normal varying torque split control. The failsafe solenoid is the reason in post R32 models you can't just pull the fuse and electrically turn it off like an r32. Kiwis method for 2wd activation in the post R32 cars depressurise the failsafe solenoid also, taking all preload off the transfer, therefore being totally ok for your transfer. If you don't do it this way, your transfer friction plates WILL be destroyed as they'll be dragging. Your only way to get 2wd safely for you is how Kiwi mentioned to do it. Also the Attesa motor activation connector exists in the R32, still the same method to bleed it as the 33/34. But as mentioned above they did not get rid of transfer case preload on later models.

No, Doesn't have one, uses threebond like the sump. 1207C is the good stuff.

Yeah I'm with the guys above, I don't think your front diff is your problem after looking at the pics.

It definitely will be more reliable, but if you're going to go through the effort of a coil change and loom change to delete the ignitor module the R35 coils make more sense to use instead of the R34 coils. The R35 coils provide around double the spark energy compared to any RB based coil. Increased dwell time settings are required to make the most of them within the ECU though. Looking at your car I assume you'd already have an ECU capable of this anyway, like a Haltech, Link, MoTeC. Even Power FC can change the dwell with FC edit, although it's in firing angle instead of dwell msec.

Look you should drop the cat as Kiwi said just to eliminate that as a cause, but it probably isn't. I've had completely blocked cats. The side effect generally is it is pathetically gradual to build to peak boost, makes jack power everywhere, but the peak boost is still usually up the rev range. Blocked cats generally do not cause a spike to peak boost then drop like you are explaining. I think the problem is elsewhere, but do it just to check anyway.

The Kudos motorsport kit is the go for what you're talking about without going the R35 coils. As mentioned retune not required, although if you have the ability in your ecu there is a slight reduction in dwell time compared to the 32/33 gtr coils. Would probably ok not to adjust but they are different FYI. Also as mentioned that wiring specialties coil harness also suits the R35 coils if the 34s don't have enough punch for you.

Dude can't open files. Attach any photos within post as a jpeg so they are visible without downloading. I can't say destroying front diffs is exactly a "common" problem, but it does happen. When the spider gears wear the side effects you mentioned are very common in a GTR (as I said it was common when the diffs get stuffed). Badly setup backlash with the diff crown wheel and pinion causing wear (won't cause to pull from straight though) and too light an oil does damage them as mentioned. Also as previously mentioned, with a fair bit of power the front will have a natural tendency to pull you away from straight with the shitty open front diff, hence why LSDs are fitted to the front to correct this. Is it the crown wheel and pinion worn or are the diffs inside spider gears worn ?

Didn't say you were in the US, but you haven't bought the car yet have you ? How reliable xyz is has been covered umpteenth times. Did you have a thorough read at the RB25 Dyno results section for results at all before posting ? All of the pros and cons on reliability are fairly well documented by now.... Not having a go, but you clearly put zero effort into doing any of your own research before posting. SAU has a massive database for the common stuff after nearly 20 years.

Amayama or JP car parts. They'll get you anything genuine that's available.

Especially when it's completely theoretical about a car that "may" be purchased in the future....

Koenigsegg really is on another level aren't they. Amazing.

It's called Shell Rimula over here

You are now infected.... Shit, now I am too. ?

Hmmm....round and round we go.

As GTSboy said really apart from diffs. I really disagree with the light oils on diffs like the 75w -85 or 75w-90 stuff Nissan recommends, and absolutely stick with a GL-4 for the stock synchro box if you want to shift properly. Easy off the shelf solutions are Castrol Syntrans GL-4 75w-85 for box and Syntrax 80w-140 in both diffs, your crown wheel and pinions will last almost forever. Absolute Best in diffs is pretty much the Motul Comp gear 75w-140 for big power. Also you didn't mention transfer case, pretty hard to be Castrol Transmax Z in that.

That's what I'm replacing, the factory BNR32 BM50 harness plug connector to whatever suits the different sensor. I am yet to see a Deutsch equivalent, but would love to be proven wrong Has to suit the BM57 sensor that has flat pins, Deutsch DTM or DT won't suit they're round, and can't see a 2 pin housing anyway with the correct side locking, so it won't clip in properly. I have contacted NTK to see what connector suits the NTK74759 BF0062 fluid level sensor as used in the BM57 master cylinder reservoir. Anyway, better get back to centre bearing replacement on the Ford Territory....

You're joking right ? I work in electrical, not as easy as it seems...Auto sparkys will be the obvious choice as their suppliers like Ashdown Ingram's will be most of the time where stuff is supplied. Without a part number for the connector most of them will tell you to go away. Might have to scour the massive RS catalogue, and back to the Japanese Sumitomo catalogue with fresh eyes. Or even contact NTK direct. Yes I can obviously get something sort of to work, but not factory fit like I want to satisfy my OCDness.

No one ? Come on someone must be onto this. I'll owe you a beer or two ? As far as I can work out it is some kind of Sumitomo connector, but stuffed if I can find it in their catalogue. This shouldn't be this hard....

When to shift. The threads keep getting better and better around here....

Sold pending payment: OS88 solid shifter HKS EVC IV

Nah man, not normally a problem. Placed order and had it in my hand within two weeks. It the bloody 5 speed gearsets that seems to be the hang up at the moment. RHD have stock now, around $1000 + credit card fee, and about $120 EMS freight from Japan, so around $1200 delivered with our current shitty dollar. Pfitzner one is $1500+, but it is here.

I think you'll have to order one, very unlikely someone will have one sitting around. I got an OS giken one for my dog box from RHD last year no worries, still in production and is a bit cheaper than the PPG one. About $1000ish ? Did have to slightly enlarge breather fitting hole in it, as for some reason it was about 1mm too small to fit a factory breather fitting.