BK

Ok I read into it and that thread, and yes the yaw sensor definitely connects directly to the HICAS ECU according to my manual info. I thought we were missing something somewhere about how this information is shared / communicated to the Atessa ECU, but it doesn't look like there is anything. Would explain why the 34 A-lsd is still shit then I guess - the yaw sensor is a complete waste of time and does basically nothing. Back on topic though, we are talking R32 here so the yaw stuff is not relevant in his torque split needs. The ultimate stand alone system appears to be the full race setup. Looks awesome, but appears to be overboard for a pure street car.

Did you read the description on RHD ? It is incorrect.

No, the yaw control sucks. Was marketed as supposed to be specifically meant for the active diff, it doesn't. Not sure how it affects the HICAS, and it probably does in some way (haven't looked into it), but yaw control is definitely for the active R34 GTR diff. It does not affect how the 4WD torque split behaves unlike an Evo. Evo's have the yaw control and does affect how the front to rear and side to side torque distribution occurs, they can diagonally distribute torque across chassis. Anyhow this is this is the Midori unit in question for changing the active diff operation: https://www.rhdjapan.com/midori-seibi-center-digital-yaw-rate-sensor-unit-bnr34-v-spec.html This is a little bit of topic anyway as it's not to do with the original query about front to rear torque split.

Physically the 33 and 34s had the failsafe secondary solenoid which provides the hydraulic preload in the transfer case which 32s don't have. 4WD actuation is faster. Other than that, this is absolutely correct, it's all about the Atessa ECU sampling faster, and therefore outputting faster. 33 transfer case physically is IDENTICAL to 32 internally and far superior to a 34 transfer case for torque loading (weaker internal chain drive, much narrower). 34 does have added yaw control though for active rear diffs in v specs, but it's pretty useless apparently. Everyone needs a mechanical rear really....Midori has an upgraded yaw sensor for 34s though for those inclined. About to do another 10 plate transfer mod next month for my Dad's GTR, this time I (or he) will do a comprehensive walkthrough on the do's and don'ts when modifying one and making them better than standard.

You mean transfer case. Geez, so annoying when someone refers to a GTR with a centre differential (very American it seems). There is a rear diff, a front diff and a bloody transfer case with a multiplate clutch like a LandCruiser 4wd. They are not a WRX or an Emo. (Don't hate rexes, I own them) Simple solution is Midori Seibi Red controllers - set and forget solution. I have one in my 32 and one sitting here ready when I can be fcked to install into the 33. As mentioned above though, most important is to have a reliable transfer case in the first place (and decent diffs). Remember the GTR is not supposed to be like the above mentioned cars with constant AWD.

I didn't pull any slaves apart as I didn't want to compromise any sealing but, Dude I literally got a brand new push slave today, and have a pull slave that's done about 50k km. Both when piston depressed pop straight back out without any hydraulic hook up, therefore there is springs in them just to pop the piston and push rod out to take up free play. The clutches themselves are not hard to understand when you see them...

Yes I believe the spring is supposed to be there, just to take up any slack the in the piston rod to release fork when release fork is against it pushing it in. That spring is not going to do jack shit against a release fork as far as trying to depress a clutch, or put any load on the bearing. much more pressure is required to actually disengage the clutch than that spring can achieve.

The slave pictured is definitely a pull and not unique, same as 33gtr, 34gtr and 34gtt. They retail for about $120. I have one for $60 if you need it.

Excellent, something conclusive at least to pinpoint the noise you were experiencing. Has the gearbox been installed and tested running yet ?

Yes, the rears are awesome too. Just a question though, do you actually know how to reshim a differential so that the crown wheel and pinion gear have the correct backlash ? Remember they are not straight drop in items as the centres will be slightly different, requiring reset up. Also the rear is a pain in the arse to get in and out. Again also, the Quaife rear only comes in 31 tooth rear diff half shaft spline centre, not the more common 30 tooth in R32 GTR, which opens up a world of pain trying to obtain these days as they are discontinued. R33 GTR non v spec mechanical rears are all 31 tooth, not R32s.

Yeah love em all. Got 3 GTRs now actually. 2 x 32s (the latest one is actually a joint project for my Dad and completely in pieces) and the 33. I guess I have the GTR bug... The 33 is definitely a better base car but I see the 32s as a better platform to go all out on with heavy modification. To be honest I hate the inside dimensions of a 32, I don't fit properly, which is why the 33 feels better to be in. Seating and steering positions are much better in a 33 I think. That said most of the modification money goes into the 32, so Maybe I'm just retarded...? Anyway you'll love the Quaife front

Exactly, it is ok to use LSD oil in a non LSD, not the other way around ( non LSD oil in LSD). Good stuff like Motol comp gear 75w-140, Castrol SAF-XA ect. is generally an LSD oil by design, but is still used in LSD, non LSD and dog box transmission applications. They don't need the LSD friction modifiers, but it doesn't hurt them. You will find nearly every dog box and performance diff manufacturers are specifying Motul Comp gear 75w-140 as it is considered the best in the business.

Hi mate. I run a Quaife in front and rear. See in the drivetrain section, but essentially you should be running 75w-140 generally in the diffs front and rear if you don't want your diff crown wheel and pinion gears to wear out, although you do have a picture of a GTR in the snow. Where I'm from it's 45deg C + for 5 months of the year, so maybe 75w-90 GL5 in the snow time for you if you're worried, but the 75w-140 does have a wider viscosity range but be similar from cold, so in "theory" should still be ok in the cold.

Good to see it's sorted. Start a build thread dude.

So you still have no idea what it " actually" is then.... Keep us updated.

Yeah I remember calling them last year as I'd heard good things about them. I thought they were the most arrogant, up themselves lot ever. I mentioned swapping from FC d Jetro to Haltech Elite and they basically scoffed at me for even suggesting it.

Inner guard liners found after much headache searching everywhere... Come on man someone must have one of these pipes, still needed urgently.

Can we allocate our own picture to the vin on the site or is for you to do via here ?

He said he's going to remove the front tailshaft until sump is swapped, so transfer will not be physically connected to anything so it's not going to damage anything. I've done this and drove 3000km and back to Adelaide with no front tailshaft connected and Attesa fuse pulled in the 33, and the 34 has the same 2nd failsafe solenoid (which causes the transfer preload in a 33/34. 32 only has one solenoid) as the 33. That's how you rear wheel dyno one without depressurising Attesa. Also regarding the Getrag with the 4.11 drive, remember what I wrote in the GTR box upgrade thread. 6th isn't the problem, as crusing rpm only increases a bees dick. The Getrag has a stupidly short first, but ignoring that 2nd - 6th is very, very close to having OS giken ratios 1st - 5th in a 5 speed. So as above Getrag 1st behind a 4.11 drive is essentially a motorkhana gear. You'd be probably taking off under normal conditions in 2nd, although 2nd is a bit taller again than an OS 1st. It'll be ok as most of the time will be between 2nd and 6th, 1st will rarely be used. This isn't a problem, just pointing out that it's going to have a very, very short first.

It's almost a knee jerk response now isn't it, "it's the coils". Most of the time it's true though.

Yeah, Ben and Kristian at Golbeys are great. They supply all the Spool stuff too.

I'll try and get my two 32 build threads up soon for reference. We are in the middle of doing the second 32 engine now. The long engine has just been completed and goes a little like this.... 05U block - machined to 86.5mm bore Stock long nose 26 crank fully balanced ARP race series main / big end bearings ARP 2000 main studs Spool forged I beam conrods with ARP 2000 7/16 rod bolts CP 86.5mm forged aluminium pistons Platinum 1.1mm block oil restrictor Nitto oil pump R32 GTR water pump Tomei sump baffles Tomei 1.2mm head gasket ARP 2000 head studs Supertech valve stem seals Supertech single valve springs New OEM valve guides, valves and lifters OEM camshaft bolts Head mild port OEM harmonic balancer Stock camshafts with Tomei cam gears (last minute to use stock cams. Have Camtech 272deg / 9.7mm cams to go in, but opted for stock on this engine being 2.6) Haven't worked out the cost but that is about as budget as you can get for a forged bottom end RB26 I would think.

Ok so you're really not talking about engine only. That list has good parts, but will be just the beginning.

Quite a lot missing there.... Absolutely nothing about head.

Well then budget is well and truly blown...