BK

Holy crap ! Really ? Would have got the Pfitzner or PAR Gearset if I had to wait that long.... Again as I mentioned before, who have you ordered it through ? as RHDjapan are saying they have some in stock now and have still backordered more.

Is that yen ? As that is about $1.95 AU so similar. I'm in central Australia so fuel is expensive, but by the look of it even BP 98 at cheapest is $1.60 in Sydney.

Is this what you're after ? This is the pipe I have.

$1.99 AUD / litre here for BP ultimate 98ron PULP, so about $120+ to fill up. By the way the car looks wicked.

Want them gone now- Camtech cams - $750 Link G4 in 32 GTR case with USB lead - $1300

You can't know unless you're familiar with the transmissions once disassembled. Coming from GTR boxes (which are the same as R33 Gts turbos Gearset and synchro wise), the only difference will come with the synchros, shift fork and gear with 3rd like 97+ stuff which translates to any FS5R30A transmission. Not sure which years are series 1 and 2 you're referring to in R33 gts,t. In GTR, 89 - 96 is same, 97 -98 upgraded (R33 GTR series 3), but not much of an upgrade really like people make out but are not interchangeable. Old mate Hardsteppa just went through this on a non GTR on this page.

Unless you've substantial power upgraded, any clutch will do that is not stock to a degree like what you've mentioned. Until you're going to a multiplate, whatever really. Makes more sense for twin and up as a flywheel change is a given, unlike singles.

Urgently need the RB26 rear timing plate piping that connects the charcoal canister to the intake side as pictured below. Need just the pipes I'd actually purchased this one above from JDM garage and they sent me the wrong one without the pipes. The pipe is also discontinued from Nissan too. Need some front R32 GTR inner guard liners for the new white project R32 also.

The 33 and 34 GTR arms are the same, and on my 33 I have Ikeya Formula arms front and back for over 12 years. Expensive but very good.

It sure would. This car is going to rip.

I love what you've done on the fab side with this build, but seriously you've done all of this and have not even looked at the totally crap standard box ? After many years of GTR, it's driveline first. For what you've got it will be an OS Giken at a minimum. Any stock GTR 5 speed will last one serious launch with sticky tyres with that turbo and power it will make. Gearset will look like my Gearset below: I know people will report "but I make 500kw+ with stock box no problems", that is always not for very long or not actually using that alleged power. Get a better box before you break it properly, save you pulling the box twice.

I'll look into it. More importantly, what is the measured clearance now ?

I have the pipe that has the blow off valve flanges on it and the flange bolts with gaskets. Pm me. I'll get a picture when I'm near them again.

Yes, the actuator bolted on the back of the transfer with the piston rod for it also installed with no hydraulic pressure on it. This is the real disengaged state. It does make a difference to the clearance, and the Nissan manual also mentions to check it like this. If you don't do this and measure it, reset to the 0.2mm - 0.5mm clearance with the actuator not installed, then bolt the actuator up the transfer case will be permanently locked to some degree, drag the plates and destroy them.

OK so you're doing the 10 plate mod. Can't remember the steels off the top of my head but they usually don't wear bugger all (less than 0.05mm), UNLESS the wrong oil or low oil has been in there. Castrol Transmax Z is the best, I'll measure one later to confirm steel thicknesses, but very rarely need to replace the steels. As above the clearance is 0.2mm - 0.5mm, and they only come in 0.2mm increments so there is no 6.7mm. Buying new plates has generally decreased the clearance required, so it shouldn't be that. As mentioned above, very important - make sure the clearance is being measured with the Attesa actuator installed with piston in. This is a must or else your clearance will be wrong (on the large side).

I have the factory 2 x blow of valves. Might have the pipe they mount to also.

You will not get this quickly. These are special order part from Japan, we've done heaps of transfers and wait time is at least 8 weeks generally as they are made up from Nissan. Also needing to go to 6.8mm on the front retaining plate (31537XA) suggests that the rest of your friction and / or steel plates are excessively worn, as we've never needed to go past 5.2mm - 6.2mm, and that's using the standard 7 friction plate or modified 10 friction plate arrangement. These plates go up in 0.2mm increments from 4.8mm - 7.0mm, so a 6.8mm is definitely not the norm. The rear retaining plate should always be set to 5.0mm (31537X). Are you checking clearance correct as in, you have the Attessa actuator with piston installed in the back ? If not it gives an inaccurate and much larger clearance, which should be between 8 - 20 thou (0.2mm - 0.5mm) between front retaining plate and retaining circlip. I have some front retainers from 5.8mm - 6.2mm and lots of the steel plates, but if you definitely need the 6.8mm retaining plate the original part number is 31537-05U10 which has now been superceded with 31537-1P410 and is about $90 -$110. For any other thickness the part number changes with the last two digits from 00 to 11, so a 4.8mm is 31537-1P400, a 6.0mm is 31537-1P406 and a 7.0mm is 31537-1P411. Hope this helps.

Please read as per post in the GTR box thread on this page. Wait for your Giken....

Their GTR ?

Just a tip make sure you are checking with 2 sets of feeler blades from each side as per the manual. A lot of people check just from one side, which is sort of fine, but I have noticed different reading between measuring from one side vs from both sides.

That's correct.

Depends, but sometimes yeah all 24 need replacing if you can't swap them around into different locations at all. Don't get genuine, stopped doing that a long time ago as it can cost a fortune. There are better options: http://www.precisionshims.com.au/

SARD / DENSO 1000cc injectors - SOLD ARP RB26 main studs - SOLD Used RB26 crankshaft lower timing belt gear - SOLD R32 RB26 water pump - SOLD R32 coilpack harness - SOLD Added for sale: Camtech CT3536/37 445B R32 / R33 RB26 inlet / exhaust camshafts - 272 deg. 9.7mm lift. Trial fitted only. - $850

it's done whenever anything changes in the valvetrain that will change the lifter to cam base circle gap. That is, changing a camshaft, lifter, valve, valve seat regrind - anything that will alter the clearance. Just correct your cams and check it and see what they come up at, and correct / adjust as necessary. It's a pain in the arse, and probably why I would not have bothered changing cams with stock turbos or similar. Owning 3 GTRs I must have at least 100 different shim thicknesses left over from multiple valve clearance changes over the last 15 years.

Valve clearance will not be all good, I'll 99% bet the valve clearance will be all over the place now. There is no way you change to a different camshaft and they all come up within spec. No one is that lucky.