BK

Yeah, Ben and Kristian at Golbeys are great. They supply all the Spool stuff too.

I'll try and get my two 32 build threads up soon for reference. We are in the middle of doing the second 32 engine now. The long engine has just been completed and goes a little like this.... 05U block - machined to 86.5mm bore Stock long nose 26 crank fully balanced ARP race series main / big end bearings ARP 2000 main studs Spool forged I beam conrods with ARP 2000 7/16 rod bolts CP 86.5mm forged aluminium pistons Platinum 1.1mm block oil restrictor Nitto oil pump R32 GTR water pump Tomei sump baffles Tomei 1.2mm head gasket ARP 2000 head studs Supertech valve stem seals Supertech single valve springs New OEM valve guides, valves and lifters OEM camshaft bolts Head mild port OEM harmonic balancer Stock camshafts with Tomei cam gears (last minute to use stock cams. Have Camtech 272deg / 9.7mm cams to go in, but opted for stock on this engine being 2.6) Haven't worked out the cost but that is about as budget as you can get for a forged bottom end RB26 I would think.

Ok so you're really not talking about engine only. That list has good parts, but will be just the beginning.

Quite a lot missing there.... Absolutely nothing about head.

Well then budget is well and truly blown...

Yes but a lot of that is " bolt ons' as I mentioned, not the engine. You're absolutely right with fittings, like doing a good fuel system is killer. Speedflow at $60 per metre for AN8 200 series braided hose, $40-$60 a fitting here there ect. For example I used 15 metres of hose mentioned above, what's that, $900 in hose alone ? Same thing though could have gone Aeroflow AN8 for $30 a metre. There are always alternatives when trying to keep costs down. It's always going to be the balance of expensive, or "more" expensive.

I think he can keep within budget if he chooses the right stuff and doesn't buy unnecessary parts. A stock crank will be fine, for keeping costs down and well strong enough. No need to necessarily spend $6k on a billet crank alone like I did for what he's trying to achieve. Same thing with rods, you can spend $1.5k - $2.5k on billet forged rods like Nitto, Crower, Carillo ect, or spend $800 on some Spool forged rods which will be easily up to the task. Careful part selection is definitely key here. Also depends what he is considering the engine, long engine minus bolts ons is definitely doable. With all bolt ons, not a hope in hell of sticking to budget.

So I guess "show quality" street drag then. Sequential or auto in the end I guess. 8's is a tall order with a H pattern. Sounds like a full on chassis up build, can't wait to see it. You got a build thread for it ? Sounds interesting....

Sounds like a it's going to be a big dollar show car ?

And how did you find that out ? If module fails and pump runs flat out at 12v, injectors still deliver the same fuel as programmed. Like wiring a pump to run flat out all of the time, which a lot of people do, won't make any difference to injected fuel to make it run richer. If the module fails so it makes the pump run not at 100% at say 9v, at WOT, then the car will lean out under load. That's like saying a failing pump can make a car run richer. At no time can the fuel pump control module fail in any way to all of a sudden make the car run rich. For OP I'm leaning towards a big vacuum leak too as @GTSBoy stated above.

Um, how would the fuel pump control module make a car run rich ? All the GTR pump module does is put 6v, 9v or 12v to pump via dropping resistors within the unit, controlling how hard the pump runs. It could cause a lean condition, not a rich, as pump is not supplying enough fuel at load.

For comparison, My 2.8 Nitto short engine (no head) for the blue 32 was around $19k, and only about $2k of that was labour, for machining. That is for rotating assembly, Nitto oil pump, modified Lewis engines sump supplying own sump and reusing my existing 05U block. More actually if you include the $2k Quaife front diff in sump.... and that's pretty much that $21k gone as worked out above

I applaud you for having a go, but, Mate, you are so far out of your depth it's not funny. If you are having trouble disassembling a transfer case, you have absolutely no hope of disassembling the Gearset from the centre plate, let alone reassembling it correctly. Seriously before you stuff something up, put the tools down now and take it to a gearbox place please. Are you really doing all of this just for powder coating ? Just sandblasting the cases looks heaps better and is more practical. And cheaper.

Bosch 2000cc injectors - SOLD Link G4 - SOLD Make an offer on everything else !

Yeah I guess so. The Tein struts must be very low pressure, if they were anything like most struts holding up steel bonnets / boots like the 33 ones, you'd almost fold the bonnet in half when closing it !

Most people cannot repressurise the 33/34 boot dampers, I looked into that, but I'm pretty sure he's talking about adding bonnet dampers, not replacing existing boot / trunk dampers. Don't really understand why you'd want them on a GTR (I'm pretty sure OP has a GTR), as the original aluminium bonnets are so light and not really required. On other skylines that have steel bonnets I would absolutely do this.

Might have a split in the diaphragm. Actuators/gates only really want positive pressure. You have picked up actuator feed after throttle, giving it boost and vacuum. Picking up before throttle generally eliminates vacuum. Feeding an actuator vacuum will try and pull the diaphragm in it the wrong way when throttle is closed, sometimes damaging or jamming them. Boost gauge, Fuel reg and bov want boost and vacuum (after throttle), Wastegates and boost solenoids use boost only (before throttle). This is the way the factory does it for a reason. As above need to check that your actuator works with a regulated air compressor to confirm it actually operates at all first.

I agree that approach is overkill, but is the "proper" way to do it apparently. I used to run as per apexi's recommendation of tapping a nipple at cylinder 3 and 4, but that is because the d Jetro fc required twin MAP sensors. Now with the Haltech Elite with one 4 bar MAP sensor I pick it up off between the factory balance tube and PCV valve, as this is essentially still balancing all cylinders, hence why that chamber is there in the first place as GTSboy mentioned. From all accounts though it seems like using the R35 AFMs are a winner if you can scale them correctly too. I can't see why any tuner is going to have an issue tuning the Haltech, so remote tuning surely won't be nessesary.

By the way R35 injectors are piss weak at 560cc / min. Hardly an upgrade over the standard rb26 440cc injectors....

If you have a Power FC and a Haltech (platinum at a minimum I assume) you would be well aware of the capabilities of them, or finding out their limitations, before asking such as general question. I have GTRs with both MAP and AFMs and there definitely is no cons to MAP, which you would be well aware of without much research. Power FC d Jetro or a Haltech platinum ,/ elite runs MAP fine.

Definitely won't. That is absolutely the way to go, as you can program it to display what ever you want. It'll be heaps better than using a tablet ! Pretty cheap too, my Haltech 52mm CAN gauge cost more than this street dash.

Hi again Duncan. Definitely, as I was working at the base in 2003 for AMEC. We still only have 1 BP Ultimate 98RON pump and 1 Caltex Vortex 98RON pump. Below is the current state of the car, which I will keep updated on this page. Feb. 1995 NISSAN BCNR33 SKYLINE GT-R V-SPEC BCNR33-002155 ENGINE · Standard R33 05U RB26 – sump to head. Compression at 160 -165 psi and valve clearance still within factory spec. · Apexi Power FC (L-Jetro) ECU and FC commander - EL version · Apexi FC boost control kit · NGK Iridium IRI Iritop 7 (BCPR7EIX) spark plugs – 0.8mm gap · Nismo oil filter · Apexi 80mm super suction air filter kit · UAS alloy radiator air guide · UAS top mount oil / air separator kit · SFS red silicone upper and lower radiator hoses · Blitz V-spec LM tube and fin intercooler 620 x 300 x 102mm · Trust/Grex 10-row oil cooler kit (filter relocation and 70 degree thermostat) 299 x 143 x 50mm · Tomei metal throttle / plenum gaskets · HKS metal exhaust manifold gaskets · Power Enterprise kevlar timing belt (at 70,000km) · 2 x Fidanza adjustable camshaft gears · 2 x HKS GT-SS metal turbine ball-bearing turbos · 2 x HKS adjustable wastegate actuators set at 18 psi · 6 x SARD / Denso / Power Enterprise low impedance 700cc injectors (Std fuel rail) · Nismo 280L/hr in-tank fuel pump (Std regulator) · 2 x Nissan 80mm Z32 airflow meters · 2 x Apexi Z32 airflow meter connectors · Factory Nissan R33 GTR RB26 coilpacks (new) · Kameari 42.7mm stainless turbo manifolds · HKS stainless O2 sensor / dump pipes (split wastegate pipes) · HKS 2 x 70/85mm stainless front pipe · Sprint mufflers custom 90mm stainless cat to muffler section (resonator delete) · HKS 95/120mm stainless Hi Power muffler INTERIOR · Formula 1 tinted windows 20% · GT-R seat covers and genuine Skyline GTR mats · Omnitronics 1-5 min. turbo timer · Omnitronics PG-3000 security · Alpine CDA-9807 4 x 50w CD/MP3 head unit · Nismo 320km/h white gauge dash cluster (replaced at almost 70000km when the original tacho failed) · Autometer 52mm white phantom boost gauge · Autometer 52mm single a-pillar gauge pod · Impul racing brake and clutch pedal set EXTERIOR · Nismo R33 400R clear front indicators · Nismo R33 N1 intercooler bumper vents · Nismo R33 N1 bonnet lip · Nismo R33 N1 GT-R carbon fibre wing end caps · Nismo R33 N1 carbon fibre rear wing blade BRAKES AND SUSPENSION / HANDLING · Cusco brake master cylinder brace · Brakewest ADR stainless braided Teflon brake lines · Std Brembo four-piston calipers · Front Project Mu HC+ pads · Std Brembo twin-piston calipers · Rear Project Mu HC+ pads · DBA 4000 ventilated rotors front and rear · Std front and rear adjustable strut braces · Whiteline polyurethane front upper control arm bushes · JJR aluminium rear subframe bushes · JIC front turnbuckle castor tension rods · Ikeya formula adjustable front upper control arms – 0 – 4 deg camber · JIC adjustable rear upper control arms – 0 – 3.3 deg camber · Cusco adjustable front steering tension rod · Whiteline 22mm front swaybar – BNF27Z · Whiteline 22mm rear swaybar – BNR11XZ · Whiteline swaybar links and bushes – KLC008 · Standard V spec GT-R shock absorbers · Midori Seibi RED / track digital G sensor WHEELS AND TYRES · Rays engineering Volk racing TE37 ’06 forged 18” x 9.5”(+12 offset) · Rays engineering carbon/aluminium centre caps · Rays engineering hex wheel nuts - blue · Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R - 265/35R18 DRIVELINE · Std F160 open front diff · Std Active R200 (FC41 type) rear limited slip diff · OS Giken 5 speed (3 speed crossmission gearset) transmission (series 3 synchros) with standard input shaft. Standard 5th gear and centre plate retained. · ATS spec 1 carbon triple-plate clutch kit with 1350kg pressure plate and 6.5kg chromoly flywheel · Nissan full push conversion kit w/ R32 GTR slave cylinder · APP push braided clutch line – master to slave FLUIDS / OILS · Engine oil – Castrol Edge 10w-60 · Coolant – Castrol Radicool · Power steering – Castrol power steer fluid · ATTESA / A-LSD hydraulics – Castrol ATF Dex III · Transmission – Castrol GL-4 Syntrans 75w-85 · Transfer case - Castrol Transmax Z · Front diff – Motul Gear competition 75w-140 · Rear diff – Motul Gear competition 75w-140 · Brake fluid – Castrol React Performance Dot 4 TUNING · Power FC DATALOGIT interface Boost- set at 19 - 21 psi (1.3 - 1.45 bar)

Hi all SAU legends. I feel like this is maybe the newbie post I should have made over 15 or so years ago. Kids are in bed and the Bundy is flowing so lets see how we go, bear with me ! I'm Ben and I've been on SAU since late 2003, had the GTR's for a long time and thought it really is time to document the cars properly. I am so slack and even went off SAU for about 5+ years travelling overseas, but reality hits and now I have two awesome little girls. I have always had something in the works but things got serious again with the cars all of a sudden a few years ago. I think it's about time for some build threads on the cars to hopefully shed some light on the work we have been doing, more so for myself to have a record of what has been done over the years. Maybe someone will find some of the stuff cool, interesting or just downright retarded sometimes ! Ok I've just turned 40 so time is becoming increasingly scarce these days to do things car wise, but I am determined to try and make the time now for all things GTR related. I've always loved cars to some degree and have had a bit of a mixed bag over the years. My first car in the 90's was a shitty Holden panel van with a 186, can't even remember what it was HR, HT, HK, anyway it was cool for about 5 seconds. Sold that for $500 and got this super awesome yellow RA40 Ceilica. Now I thought this was the shit, but found out that it too sucked. I actually started racing things like Karts, MX ect. from around 5 years old so always had the speed bug up into the teens when I could buy a car, so I thought lets go looking for "fast cars". Around 97 I think I thought turbo S13 SR20s were cool. Went to Adelaide to buy one, test drove one and somehow ended up coming back with a 92 turbo Supra. This was my revelation on turbo cars for sure. Owning a 70 series Supra was awesome, until you realised unless you had a 2JZ it too was average. Down at trade school in Melbourne around 2000 I drove some 2JZ Supra's and again was hooked. This was the cars to have I thought and I must have one. Looking high and low for something (a Toyota 2JZ in the early 2000s) that met the right price for a couple of years was difficult. Just couldn't find the car I absolutely wanted. Now being a Zoom / HPI reader at the time Martin Donnon, Mark Tilbrook and Denso ? at Tilbrook Auto and Dyno in Adelaide was always frequently featured, always pushing the early Nissan Skyline GTR development as the pinnacle of turbo performance cars. Now I was in Adelaide quite frequently for music gigs like the Big day out around that time in my life, so I thought I would pay them a visit during one of my many visits to Adelaide. Met Mark T. at the workshop in early 2000's and got properly introduced to these things that we had only seen at Bathurst on channel 7 years ago that he was working on. Well all I can say is the rest is history, as I can definitely say from that 2000ish real life exposure to these cars that had this unfamiliar 4WD layout and RB26DETT Nissan thingy in it, I was definitely a changed person. It was now my mission to obtain one of these gee tee argh things. After searching carpoint (remember that ?) and the trading post for a couple of years and dreaming I happened to have to go to Melbourne for training in around 2002. I had lost my license at the time (don't ask - short story is got DUI'ed for six months in Maccas drive thru in a Bright red Supra. Yes I know - being a total fkwit in their early 20s) and thought I'd take the opportunity to check some cool cars out. Now I was looking at all R32 GTRs at the time generally starting at about high $30k - $40k upwards back then. Went for some test drives in them (shhh!) and was pretty much sold on a black 92 R. All cars I was looking at then were pretty much R32 as R33s were still fairly recent cars and 34s were still being sold new, so they were out of the question. Seems like deal had been done, then I happened to pick up the paper in while I was in Vic. and saw this "1995 BCNR33 V-spec - 60XXXkm) for sale. Smallest little ad with bugger all detail, but with a mobile number. I thought F it I'll call this guy and see what he says. Says he's at Craigieburn and will take me for a drive in the car to see if I was interested. Sooo, I caught a train out that way and waited for a random dude to pick me up hopefully out in the middle of nowhere. Waited for like an hour, thinking great, that was a waste of time. Then to my complete amazement at this train station, a car type that I had never seen in the flesh before pulled up in front of me. Italian sort of looking dude rolls down the window in front of me and says "you Ben looking at a GTR ?", I reply "yep" and get in. The guy must have been in his 50's, and picking up this 190cm tall, skinny adolescent looking guy must have thought seriously WTF, what a waste of time. I remember the guys name was "Steve", and said he'd take me for a spin anyway. He was the importer and first owner of this car in Oz. I 100% I guess he thought he was taking some young karnt just for a joy ride, but to his credit he still followed through after what must have seemed like a complete waste of his time. He took me somewhere windy up around Whittlesea ? (I think) and then got to some straighter quiet roads. Anyway he come out of a corner onto a freeway onramp of some sorts and gave it full stick. Holy. Shit. My immediate reaction was this car wants to rips the tar straight off the road - in my mind it had that much grip and had never experienced anything like it. He must of wanted a drive because I'm sure we covered quite a few kays that day for a test drive - I dunno 100km ? Anyway he said it has been fun and went to drop me off back at the train station. As we got closer to the station I said if he knew where the closest Commonwealth bank was. He said sure and took me there probably thinking I needed cash to get home. When we arrived I went to the ATM, got $2000 cash and gave it to a total stranger for a deposit on this car. " I will be back with a bank cheque for the remaining balance in an hour" I said, "the car is sold !". Completely taken aback was this guy. A dude wearing heavy metal t shirts swinging him $2k for a deposit on a car he didn't expect to sell. I came good and gave the outstanding balance in a CBA bank cheque. I had actually been prepared for this day and already had been paying off a loan for a while for a car I yet did not have, hence so powerful was the motivation to obtain one of these cars. Next day got the car shipped with CEVA from Melbourne to Alice Springs immediately, took about 11 days. Now at that time I still don't have a license, have to stay in Melbourne to complete more training and have the car shipped to my old mans workshop. Car arrives before I get back. Said to one of his workmates we should take it for a "test drive" when it arrives without telling me. When I call up about the car arriving safely the old man replied - "yeah she's at my house safe and sound. Gee mate, she gets up to 240 pretty quick !". "Huh ? What are you talking about ? Have you driven it ?" was my confused response. (Disclamer - NT had and still has on and off open highway speed limits depending on who is in Government. It was open most of 1990 - 2014). Pretty much sums up the story of my first GTR purchase and the beginning of a life long love / hate relationship with them. I wish I had some older photos but this is how this February 1995 BCNR33 with currently 82000km sits after owning her for around 17 years. As far as cars go I'm not sure I could put a price on her, or ever get rid of it. Maybe when I'm very, very old she'll go. The sentimental value, length of time of ownership, condition of it etc. means the car is with me for a while yet.... I will also be starting build threads on my two 32 GTRs soon, although they command nowhere near the same attachment as this car. Well that's about it for tonight, more info soon.

Correction. Been That long only just realised my rear upper control arms are JIC C304780. Same thing goes though, JIC is equally as good as Ikea. Ikeya formula. Whiteline seems to have the equally good equivalent too for the rear. The front though Ikeya hands down. Here is the Ikeya fronts I'm using:

As above take the cams and Link off my hands. Bosch 2000cc injectors are also sold pending payment.