BK

Ayc- Active yaw control

Pin 6 switches to ground determined by your thermo temp cut in / out range in software and your radiator thermo switch is in series with that input. Just reassign that input that is wired to pin 6 to thermo control. If you want to switch it on lower than what the thermo switch is the switch loom needs to be bridged, so you could turn on at say 80deg C for example, which is lower than the radiator switch closes at.

Hi Peter. It does not sound normal. Is yours a spec 1 or 2 and pull or push ? As mentioned I run these ATS spec 1 1350kg / 6kg flywheel push triples in both the 32 and 33 now (got rid of the R3C years ago, my first post in this thread is from 2009 when I first started running them) and I definitely do not experience what you have mentioned. If it doesn't bother you or cause any dramas great, but the next time your box is out it would pay just to check all the specs of everything inside the clutch. I actually pulled the 32 triple down last year for inspection while a new engine and box was being built, and was still pretty much like new with about 0.2mm total wear across all plates combined, and all plates still dead flat with less than 0.05mm runout on the metal floating discs. That said, while it was apart I decided to upgrade the metal floating discs and pressure plate to the carbon coated versions (note: they are triple the price of the original ones), which raise the torque and temp handling substantially. The ATS carbon clutches don't appear to be available spec'ed like this when you buy them new, but noticed it in their parts catalogue so I thought I'd try it out. Only difference I noticed is it is a little bit more grabby / bitety from cold, which I was surprised with as now it is essentially carbon on carbon with the plates. Should give them a go if you ever have to pull the clutch out.

Yes there is. What motor is this, RB20 I take it ? See Roy's instructions below. Let me know if you need the pack from me.

GTR 440cc are low impedance, hence need dropping resistor pack. I have a spare GTR injector resistor pack with the plug cut off if you need to splice it in.

Yes

I have a genuine cast alloy RB26 cover, pm me.

As above, both of my 32s were imported under the 15 year rule and do not have compliance plates fitted. What it definitely should have though is a different VIN plate attached on the firewall to covert the chassis number into a VIN, which is done at compliance when it enters the country. Should be a plate with 6U900 then the model like BNR32003105, making 6U900BNR32003105 for example.

Good stuff. Probably never hear of this issue again after this firmware.

As above, we have a couple of threads ongoing..... Whats the problem mate ?

Looks like you're going to Christian at Golebys bro....

Trust oil cooler - SOLD 1000CC Denso injectors sold pending payment. Also now up for sale: 6 X Bosch 2000cc injectors with 14mm adaptors - $400 BPP twin entry 14mm fuel rail - $250 Link G4 plug in GTR ECU - $1500 Make an offer, everything is always negotiable...

Have link plug in G4 for GTR. Make an offer...

Is this still available at all ?

Yeah it would be good to access the ECU while car is off, and ECU was USB powered. The new ESP 2.42 software, which was only released Monday 28/10 also won't upgrade from the old ESP. Have to completely uninstall 2.41 or earlier and fresh install 2.42 ESP. Doesn't erase any saved maps though as they are saved elsewhere. There is also a bug in the ESP software on the knock control long term trim, which sometimes doesn't apply timing changes permanently to the base ignition map when applied. Won't melt an engine loom though which was an absolute bastard of a job to replace.

I though I'd keep this one to myself until yesterday when a resolution was reached and confirmed. If anyone has an Elite 2500 I suggest you upgrade to the latest 2.34.00 firmware and ESP 2.42 software immediately, and preferably do it with your coilpacks unplugged or at least the coilpack power feed unplugged. On the blue 2.8 Nitro 32 during a firmware update about six weeks ago I had a slight issue where during the update to my 2500, my coilpacks harness and main engine loom decided to smoke, catch fire and melt. Completely destroyed main harness along firewall and at coilpacks harness power supply plug. Car was running well before this and are using R35 coilpack upgrade from Godzilla motorsport. Cause was unknown at this stage so ECU was sent back to Haltech for inspection and test, and ends up testing fine. After post mortem on engine loom discovered the earth wire which carries the coilpack power had melted due to excessive current, taking out the rest of the cables it was loomed with. After bringing this up with Haltech the only conclusion I could reach was that during the firmware update it triggered all six coilpacks to try and charge the primary side simultaneously for an extended period of time without discharging, which in turn will make an excessive amount of current flow through the power supply wires to the loom. If you look at the coilpack 12v supply the positive is also much larger gauge than the ground wire. Compounding this is issue if you run R35 coilpacks which draw considerably more current than stock coils, if this is to happen the risk of cable failure is increased if all coils decide to charge all at once and then not discharge. After bringing this to Haltechs attention they decided to retain my Elite for further testing, which confirmed that the coilpack outputs could indeed randomly turn on during the firmware update, as the ECU will be in a state of no configuration while erasing the existing firmware and writing the new one. After receiving back my 2500, on the 21/10/2019 comes a new firmware 2.34.00 which the first changelog mentioned in it was the rectification of the coilpack outputs switching on during a firmware update. Car was finally finished off yesterday with the original Elite 2500 on 2.34.00, and a whole new wiring specialties main engine and coil pack loom to replace the fried stock one. Fired up first go, no DTC's and all sensors reporting as normal. Again, Please do update immediately with your coilpacks unplugged

Andrew and Michael at Kudos motorsport are great. Yeah mine was the full HKS GT-SS kit with everything included. Looks like Kudos are using the HKS restricted banjo bolts I mentioned in their gasket kit.

Regarding restrictors, yes the ball bearing cartridges take less oil than the stock bush bearings meaning oil restriction to be used. I have HKS GT-SS / -9s and the oil restriction came in the way of a restricted banjo bolts supplied with turbos. The difference is something like 5mm To 1.5mm, so definitely required.

why ? push clutches dominate the market, available in many more configurations, and are more practical to actually work on. Yes it does require a conversion in a 93 - 94 R32/,R33/R34 GTR situation but it seems like you are inferring that pull is better than push. I fully converted my R33 GTR away from pull to push for this reason for more clutch options, and no not the OS giken pull to push arrangement which still uses pull slave and line. On my R33 GTR I did full R32 GTR 11/16" push slave cylinder, push gearbox front cover, uprated cast alloy Z33/Z34 instead of pressed steel clutch bearing release fork, chromoly fork pivot (not the Nismo reinforced push pivot) and braided reservoir to clutch slave line deleting all that hard line bullshit that Nissan uses to the slave cylinder. End result is gold, actually works properly and reliably. Have you actually read anything I've said ? Any idle noise from the Getrag box is going to come down to your flywheel being dual mass or single mass, not the clutch plate count or what the plates are made of. I have given you the pros and cons of each flywheel type. You still haven't outlined a power figure which is actually important in this part selection. Is it stock, 300, 400kw at wheels ect. It determines what you need or should use. Sorry but I'm out. Any GTR is not a refined, smooth and silent type of car like you are trying to make it out to be. I wish you the best of luck and I hope I've been a help to some degree. I suggest you give a clutch specialist like Australian Clutch Services or NPC a call for any further info to help you.

Spec 2 looks very good, but wasn't available when I was obtaining them through ACS. More pressure plate options and different leverage ratios meaning they can achieve some super light pedal feel - one even claims to be lighter than stock. I think OP needs to go to a workshop with an R34 GTR fitted with a clutch that has a solid flywheel (which will be 90% of R34s here) and be driven in it to demonstrate it really is a non issue with any noise.

Mate, he has asked the question and has gotten some very good advice from people who have had and been on the forum and involved with GTRs for a very long time here in Australia. He wants to be pointed in the right direction about what's what from people who have had direct experience with clutches and the drivelines. Do your own research is exactly what he's trying to do by asking people with actual experience with the topic. Those ATS silent clutches are a massively derated clutch compared to their normal spec 1 carbon lineup, and don't come in pull. The Spec 2 carbons are available in pull with their new options. Stop advocating that he keeps the dual mass flywheel. The GTR is a performance car, they should be immediately upgraded to a solid if the car has anymore than standard power. I guess the question is still on the power output of said car, as this still has not been mentioned to go one way or the other. If the car is to be kept STANDARD, (but why are you upgrading the clutch on a stock car ?), then by all means retain the dual mass. But then it essetially has to be in perfect condition which I guarantee it will not be, no flywheel after use will be within the tolerances of run out required, and therefore not be usable with a new clutch. Please the watch this from Australian clutch services in Adelaide: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DNsvSb33xyxI&ved=2ahUKEwik-PPevbPlAhUO7XMBHduoBbYQwqsBMAB6BAgGEAQ&usg=AOvVaw1Ko6V8yCcmBCcy4AN05ynb And then watch again from ACS: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D3N4_pvjzgaw&ved=2ahUKEwiC6LOdwLPlAhXNIbcAHYX9BlsQo7QBMAB6BAgAEAI&usg=AOvVaw0gjCdwJ0jbOReUYg75niMw Still want to retain the dual mass ?

Yes the Xtreme sprung single plate ones above are where it starts for an attempt at retaining the stock clutch feel. All have heavier pressure plate. All single plates are generally designed to be compatible with the standard flywheels, yet usually have light chromoly versions to suit as an option available. The Exedy equivalent is this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EXEDY-clutch-kit-HEAVY-DUTY-for-NISSAN-skyline-R34-GTR-RB26DETT-2-6litre-/131647971336&ved=2ahUKEwj91Jf2x7HlAhVq73MBHbJvCuQQFjAMegQIBhAB&usg=AOvVaw3p4reyX6EoViZHJ3c-TBer&cshid=1571805652159 Multiplates are generally all designed around using a supplied light flywheel for that specific clutch, that's why multiplates are more expensive as they generally always come with a flywheel, and singles generally do not. You mentioned the carbon clutches, they are great and now will only use a carbon clutch. Anyone who has seen my posts in the last ten to fifteen years will know the clutch troubles I've had, and that I think the ATS carbons are completely on another level compared to any other clutch or brand on the market. The triples are stupidly high rated, like 1400hp +, and drive like a dream. Seriously if you drove one no way anyone would think they were a solid centre triple, as they are so progressive because they have carbon friction discs and can be slipped, not on or off engagement. Only give away that it's a multiplate is that they have the signature multiplate rattle when clutch is depressed, which I don't see as a negative. I like it when someone who thinks they know a thing or two say when the clutch is depresssed "what's wrong with your car ?", it cracks me up. I think now if I DON'T hear that sound, it must be a shit clutch as ALL multiplates should rattle when depressed, if not the clutch is most likely not disengaging properly, and that is very,very bad. These carbon clutches mostly on the market like OS giken, Nismo, Exedy and ATS are generally carbon friction discs, but still with metallic floating discs and pressure plate. ATS has the extra option of carbon coating the metallic floating discs and pressure plate also, so it's carbon on carbon making them last even longer and handle more torque. Carbon also has a natural tendency to absorb drive line shockload compared to other materials, great for launching at high GTR rpms. That's what I run and I love them. It's a shame though as the price is through the roof now, I used to get the triples for around $2600 trade price, now the triples are a $3500- $4500 clutch depending on options. RHDjapan is about the best place to source them now as Australian Clutch Services in Adelaide (aka XClutch, Xtreme) don't appear to source them anymore. Not that this really applies here, but If you really wanted to get crazy ATS is the only ones who make true carbon / carbon clutches. That is, carbon friction discs, carbon floating discs (not coated, actual full carbon), and carbon pressure plates ! Freaking amazing with 1000hp single, 2000hp twin, 3000hp triple all the way to 4000hp quad plate. Apparently wears like 0.1 - 0.4mm after 300 launches across entire clutch, which is unheard of compared to anything else available. You can have one too with the singles around $7000, twins $9000 and the triples around $12000. Quad - $15000 (yes not a typo) This is the type of clutch that will outlive the life of any transmission and most cars though. For drooling awesomeness: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.a-t-s.co.jp/00english/01e-clutch/index_fcc.html&ved=2ahUKEwiwhLCb0bHlAhWi7XMBHSqcDBIQFjAIegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw2Hmd1F-64fNivjXO5BZieY&cshid=1571808466663 Sorry, getting a bit of topic for you now, just pointing out what's out there and illustrating how carbon clutches have really changed the game, which seems to have gone a bit under the radar as most people don't run them because of the cost. Coming back down to Earth, Check out ATS. You can definitely find something suitable. If you want to go down the carbon path, the starting point carbon clutches would be something like this: Single - $2300 https://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/item.php?category=drivetrain&subcat=Clutches&brand=ATS&series=&name=Carbon+Clutch+(Single+Plate)&carcode=R34C&fromlink=2 Twin - $3200 https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.rhdjapan.com/ats-across-carbon-twin-clutch-kit-spec-1-1350kg-getrag-nismo-shaft-light-weight-bnr34.html&ved=2ahUKEwinq_r807HlAhVn7HMBHbSeDB0QFjAKegQIBhAC&usg=AOvVaw3uoyATS9IGvVQQEMO-a6u7&cshid=1571808839898 Either would suit you fine. BK out, - back to work.

Ok let's clear things up. I said "why" originally as I see no reason ever to run a single plate ever in a GTR, as their cost vs what they deliver is not very good compared to multiplate clutches. What power level are we talking here ? Just because you run a multiplayer doesn't mean you have to have a "FU gearbox" driving style, it just means it can support more power. Some multiplates are nicer to drive than others for sure. Yes the Nismo twin is probably the nicest, friendliest to drive. If your power goals are less than 400kw then yes the Nismo is the go, but it sounds like you essentially want a stock clutch by they way you are wanting it to feel. The only clutch that will feel like that is an upgraded full face organic single plate, cushioned, sprung centre using the standard dual mass flywheel with an upgraded pressure plate. Most clutch manufacturers all sell something like this. The Nismo will come close, and would be a better value option than most singles, as it will drive almost like standard yet hold more power. Don't be fooled though, even the comp spec Nismo twin will not handle much abuse for long periods of time, it is still more like a street clutch only, which sounds like it will absolutely be fine for you. The Getrag doesn't NEED a dual mass flywheel, but yes was used to make the box quieter. There is gearbox rattle, then there is multiplate rattle. The twin/triples only rattle when clutch pedal is depressed and is disengaged, as the floating discs are loose with no clamping load on them, they all do it, they don't rattle all the time when engaged. The gearbox noise referred to is the Getrag 6 speed rattle noise, and is caused by it's design. It is not helped that they essentially run an ATF as gearbox oil because of their synchro material. If it could run a thicker oil I'm sure it would be quieter, but they can't and that's just the way it is. The dual mass flywheel was an attempt to engineer out the noise, and running a single piece flywheel enhances this noise to a degree. How bad this noise is though is purely subjective as some people with think it's really noticeable, others will say "what noise" ? Generally the dual mass flywheel is only retained on the most mildest cars as it is a heavy mofo at nearly 14.5kg! It's a heap of shit design and really shouldn't be in a performance car. A 14.5kg flywheel is a performance killer, even the R32/R33 GTR flywheel is around 10kg and that's a heavy thing, and is much improved upon with a lighter flywheel in the region of 6kg. Essentially the benefits of moving to a better multiplate and flywheel clutch far outweigh the cons of increased NVH in my opinion, unless you are highly annoyed by ANY increase in NVH. For what it's worth I cannot speak highly enough about carbon clutches. They hold a lot more power and don't warp like their equivalent metal or ceramic plate versions, and are really great to drive. Only downside is that they are really expensive.

why ?

NEW R32 GTR genuine Nissan Pitwork power steering belt 4PK950 - SOLD NEW R32 / R33 GTR lower gearbox shifter boot- SOLD Used R33 GTR genuine rear upper control arms - SOLD Used R32 GTR genuine rear upper control arms -SOLD TRUST OIL COOLER SOLD PENDING PAYMENT