BK

If you want to retain AFMs well that's fine. Why is it an issue for you on a single ? Plenty of single turbo GTR have run AFMs, my 32 when I bought it was setup this way. MAP vs AFM debate is not really relevant in a thread about single vs twin turbo though and a bit off topic.

This thread should be in forced induction really. I retain twin z32 afm on the 33, but that's because I did it 15 years ago and wouldn't bother now if I was doing it from scratch. Having a 4 bar MAP is fine if you've got the ECU to run it over AFMs and do not impact the stock throttle bodies for emissions with a modern ECU. Low mount single on an RB26, why would you bother ? Having a high mount single 32 myself (currently moving to a 1.00 a/r twin scroll PT6466) and retaining the twins in my 33 HKS gt-ss / Garrett -9 is best compromise. I'd never go single on the 33 for the exact reasons mentioned in this thread, as I basically want it to appear stock as possible. That said, this turbo choice does tend to fall over at the top end - it's all about the low - mid range with gt-ss and I know that. Slightly laggier than stock ceramics, -5 does have more top end but with shitter response, but at the end of the day the more "complete" package for response vs power under the curve vs top end will always be a single now with what's out there turbo wise. Twins are a compromise these days and it is all about the balance of the delivery you can achieve with what you choose to run.

Look if want to retain twins, but upgrade, and have as close to factory response -9 / hks gt-ss is the only option. I have that on the 33 and makes between 310 -330kw in 98 with around 22psi stock cams. 360 - 380kw might be achievable on E85 upped cams but that would be it. Max.

Go -10 low mounts, It's fully sick ! ? 8-10psi, Isn't that about stock R32 boost ? Have you removed boost restrictor olive ? Should get around 14psi.

Yeah that's the go and what I still use in the 33. If you get the 3 speed kit with uprated input shaft it ends up being strengthened 1st - 4th gears with a standard 5th, as the input shaft is essentially 4th as it is the 1:1 direct gear. The OS Giken 5th is more for circuit racing being shorter.

Nothing wrong with stock lower nylon bushing, as long as it's in good condition. As mentioned, on the 10% shifter: -stick is bonded with stronger rubber (apparently) for less flex -cut down from top 7.5mm to give the 10% throw reduction -uses stock lower nylon bush Nowhere they mention a stiffer lower bush and I'm sure Nismo don't sell one.

I don't find the Nismo quick shifter much different in effort to be honest, but it is definitely really short. Look, you say your shifter is getting loose with age, but what does that actually mean ? Is the shaft at the top part of the stick actually coming away from the bottom part (deteriorated bonding rubber) ? Or are you talking about just being sloppy in the box ? If it's the latter you probably just need a new lower nylon bush. I am yet to see a shifter stick fall apart at the bonding rubber, so your problem is most likely just the bush R32/R33 GTR part 32861-05U00. This is the same bush on the stock Nissan and both Nismo shifters also. GKtech make a brass one, but I'd never use it. I've fractured and lost a few of these using dog boxes and they go into the transfer case. Nylon fine, but if a brass one fractures and falls into transfer case, it's box out time.

Wow, looks like I am the only one left...

Wow, First you wanted an OS giken or PPG synchro gearset, and now you're talking Autos ? WTF ? That's a pretty dramatic difference between setups. If you go the auto route it is basically a "street registered" drag car. C'mon if it's got an auto in a BNR32/BCNR33/BNR34 to me it is hardly a GTR anymore..... At least the sequential dog boxes have a certain amount of "having your cake and eating it too", as they can be streeted, can be circuited and can be drag raced all with good results. I really hate the idea of an automatic GTR. Anyway CRD have done TH400 on GTR like JUN II with 4WD so it is possible.

If you go Tein you really need the Mono tube stuff. The valving is far superior compared to any of the Tein twin tube stuff. I had Tein NR twin tube about 7 - 10 years ago and they were so shit, super hard, very bad dampening twin tube shock, way worse than stock GTR shocks. Got rid of them and went Tein Mono flex about 5 years ago and was completely amazed at the difference. Excellent twisty stuff control, compliant on rough roads, way more so than any stock Gtr, evo, sti or wrx suspension I've been in. Definitely better on bad roads than my 2001 or 2015 wrx's or my stock 33 v spec suspension. No problem with high speeds either, like 250kph+ on undulating highway roads (we had open speed limits then), and Mono flex is supposed to be track coilovers. Stretch for some good mono tube based ones if you can afford it, the valving difference is worth it. If you just want to replace the blown shocks with something decent from Tein I'm sure the streets will be adequate enough, as it will still be better than brand new Nissan suspension, let alone stuffed ones.

pretty much.....

Good stock replacement is your existing shifter is falling apart at the bonded rubber. Mate, I know it "says" short shifter, but it is just a stock stick cut down 7.5mm with stiffer rubber bonding the inner and outer parts of the stick, which it also says. The bottom nylon bush is also stock. The only reason it is 10% shorter throw is the stick being cut down, not a fulcrum height change like real quick shifters. Realistically no real noticeable difference than the stock one. The Nismo 25% real quick shifter is awesome though. Regarding that quick shifters wear out synchros faster is really not true, in a way, as you will wear them just as fast if you are trying to slam it through anyway. edit: I own both 10% short and 25% quick Nismo shifters for comparison.

I'm away for work right now but will post up turbo pics on Saturday when I'm back. Tomei type B valve springs and retainers - SOLD Nitto RB head drain - SOLD Nitto 2.8 billet 77.7mm stroker crankshaft sold pending payment.

How about 446 - 466 odd Nm as per GTR manual. It's stupidly tight ! Every time I do one I think I'm going to snap the bolt off in the crank when you get near 400Nm. Accepted torque is to get 400Nm or better max realistically, and that is generally with a 3/4" breaker bar with over 1 metre length with flywheel locked properly. How's this - RB25DET is 142 - 152 NM in comparison on harmonic balancer bolt tension. Explain more than triple the tension between 25 and 26 Nissan ?

31 tooth rear gtr half shafts - SOLD Added for sale: Used HKS EVC III boost controller complete - $250 Used HKS EVC IV boost controller complete - $290 Used Trust oil cooler 13 row core with AN10 tank fittings - $220 Brand new 40psi electronic 60mm JDM dual analogue / digital 40psi display boost gauge with MAP sensor and mounting cup - $220 If anyone needs a 10 clutch transfer case upgrade ($1200 including parts) or OS giken gearset build ($1400 labour only. Can supply all parts if needed.) can do as well. 2 - 3 month lead time. Shipping to and from obviously extra.

yeah ? Is that DVS ?

Red Centre Nats 30/8 - 01/09. Look, I really want Con at CRD to tune it, seems like an awesome bloke who knows his stuff, but I just feel that they always have a lot on their plate with their own projects and don't really have enough time for little old me. If I go to Sydney, whoever I go to, sorry but your going to have to drop everything to concentrate on my car and only my car while I'm there or else I won't use you. I know CRD won't do that. Because It's a massive exercise for me to get the car there and back and will have to be timed precisely to be completed within a two week period of me getting away from work in late June (which is a mission in itself - I work 80+ hours a week). JEM seems willing to go the extra mile for me after talking to them. Don't get me wrong I have no problem with their work or cost, I just think they won't be able to commit to what I want out of them after the engine build. I think they might over commit themselves sometimes.

Ok, got this shit sorted. 90mm stainless front pipe cut and tig welded to match up to the new Precision 6466. Thanks to Mick Ackerman from Outback welding, one of two people who could have modified this for me in Alice. He is fabricator for Shannon and Ian Rentsch offroad racing for Finke desert race here. Going to be making the 5500km / $5000 + round trip for a tune to JEM in Sydney hopefully next month. Really wanted Con and CRD to do it after the engine build, but not confident I can get fit in with the timeline on when I need it done. Mechanically here we're set, but hard living here with these type of cars - no custom fabricators, dynos or tuners here. Dropping engine back in car on Tuesday and start putting back together for Sydney trip. WP_20190511_15_11_39_Pro.mp4

Yes absolutely, if you have $25k + to drop on a transmission.

Mate they are massively stronger gears than factory, that is the benefit. Hard shot peened from OS giken from better steel, and has a straighter helical cut than standard. I don't know about you, but the first time I launched my 32 with Mickey Thompson ET streets at the strip with a stock box I tore 3rd gear a new one mid run. Stripped all 3rd teeth clean off. That box became an OS box. Still keep the counter shaft and main shaft gear to show people what breaks. Last photo is actually when I broke 3rd in a Trust 6 speed. See they don't break as severely, but broken is broken none the less. That was about 10 years ago, never used a standard gearset again in either car.

Again, I told you where to look and you didn't. I'm trying to help you. Buying in Europe save money ?, IT IS JAPANESE ! Cheapest place is direct from Japan. Go onto RHD Japan and order one right now for $3k AUD, which is what 2000 Euros ? Trust me you are not getting it cheaper anywhere than that. They'll ship it EMS which is fast and relatively cheap. Now go order. Go on, right now go to RHD Japan and order. Now. Edit: Here is the link. Click on link, log in, order now, receive in June, done. https://www.rhdjapan.com/os-giken-close-gear-kit-5-speed-nissan-rb26dett-input-shaft.html At that price I'm considering buying one just to have one put away if I ever want to build another one.

You really didn't try did you ? Jacky at CJ motor in Brisbane has 7 of them, SEVEN ! Even Just Jap is saying 10 -15 days on their site. Jeez ! They both want retail though which is around the $5k mark, or.... Brad at JDM garage also in Queensland has 2 x used OS-88 sequentials at the moment for around $15k.

You didn't try hard enough. As I order from RHD Japan constantly I checked for you re OS giken availability. I know it "SAYS" 4 month lead time, but their next stock is 30th of May for the OS Giken 5 speed set with input. Need to buy now to confirm. Bargain price too at around $3k ! I only just sold one myself and I paid a lot more than that for it. There is also a used one on ebay here, complete box at $7600 with clutch. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/R32-GTR-BNR32-OS-Giken-5-Speed-Cross-Gear-set-Transmission-Triple-plate-Clutch/264266244296?hash=item3d877ee0c8:g:bdEAAOSwcgNco241

Going price for front reo bar used at the moment is around $700 - $1000, USED !!!! That was everywhere I've checked as I was after one, but fk that ! Good pic of the N1 cutouts too, just about to do it myself.

Yep still available. You have a PM.