BK

I don't know about the synchro set (I use OS giken in my 33), but I have just had one PAR dog box done for my Nitto 2.8 R32 GTR, and they definitely have come along way since Gerard was involved with the business (is no more). The PAR synchro set is still generally more expensive than an OS giken. As far as I can tell after calling, it's just Haysam Chalak doing all the machining now by himself, and the gearsets are every bit as good as the PPG, really good quality. Talk to Sam at Neat gearboxes in Adelaide about them, he actually swung me away from the PPG in favour of the PAR and completed my gearbox. This is the straight cut dog box 1st to 4th with the synchro 5th. Has updated 28.5mm 26 tooth GM spline input shaft, billet 1-2 and 3-4 selector forks, OS Giken centre plate and the.most important part, the billet shifter barrel interlock. This interlock is a must as with the dog box, using the standard sintered interlock with dog engagement it will eventually fracture and select more than one gear at the same time, causing catastrophic gearset destruction. PAR is the only ones who do this interlock for the 5 speed H patterns, PPG uses stock interlock and after talking with Neat gearbox and CRD is the number one reason the PPG fails. Sam said any of the Pfitzner H pattern dogs really should be fitted with a billet interlock. Makes sense really, as dog boxes slam the dog rings together and of course will cause more stress on the interlock from shock loading. I'm really surprised PPG don't / won't make one. This is not really required with synchro only boxes though. Also with Neat gearboxes the PAR gearset, Nissan 5th / Rev gears and main shaft was fully crack tested, shot peened and isotropic super finished, which strengthens even more. I will report back with updates to see how it holds up once the wick is turned up on the 6466 at CRD. Running Motul 75w-140 in it. So far, really, really happy. Only thing I will say as a negative is getting the gearsets or parts made up if not in stock can take awhile. This guy really needs to expand his operation as being basically a one man band now they can't keep up with parts supply like Pfitzner can. Give Haysam at PAR a call and see what the availability is like first, he's a good guy to talk to.

Let me know if you get stuck obtaining them, I might be able to pull a rabbit out of a hat if needed.

if you can find them, the RH side 38220-24U05 is discontinued remember ? LH side 38220-24U06 is still available, but right and left are different lengths. Try Japanese Motorsport in Adelaide, I sold my last set to them.

No can't use, different lengths, I looked into it before I did my Quaife. You need the ones with 46 tooth speed sensor gears also, the Atessa uses this for the wheel speed too. You should have bought a pair my shafts while I had three 31 tooth R33 sets remember ? Forget the cost, they are becoming stupid hard to source now, took me six months hence why I obtained 3 new sets when I could.

Move to Australia. Buy any GTR you can afford. Problem solved.

ok I'm bumping this. Boost pressure source for wastegate / boost solenoid - plenum or compressor housing ? I've always been plenum, but seeing all of the Precision / Borg Warner / Garrett singles now with nipples on the compressor housings is making me think twice, especially since I've moved to a 6466. Surely plenum is the go as that is what the engine is seeing and what you want to control ? So why have compressor nipples then ? I am talking RB26 here so I do realise pressure source always has to be before the throttles (like the plenum), unlike a 25 where the plenum is after the single throttle body making the plenum a no go in that situation.

I have both. 33 is a overall better car in every way in my opinion, but ask yourself really why you want to change. If your 1992 32 is a good example I don't think I would get rid of it just for change sake though. How good is your 32 and what's done to it ?

If you don't have Nissan FAST use jp car parts website. It's essentially Nissan FAST online and you can order direct from them in Osaka too.

Injectors sold pending payment Price drop on HKS EVC III - $240 HKS EVC IV - $250

If a new return is going in, better off doing it in -8. Better all around of you are running that pump flat out. Cooler fuel, less pressure drop on return and nicer on your pump. Win, win. Why not go the Bosch 980cc 3bar / 1100cc 4bar EV14 injectors over the ID1050X ? Cheaper again for the same base injector type. The ID will flow a little bit more ( maybe 5% - 7% ?), but will be a least 50% more expensive. Don't get me wrong, I just dunno if I could justify the price of IDs with -5 turbos if it were me. I'm sure they will flow enough for you.

The speedo sensors are interchangeable as the 32 vs 33 speedo drive gear within the transfer cases are the same. Ages ago I thought the transfers were actually different because of this but they are not.

The HKS / SARD / Power enterprise injectors are all SARD injectors and are not meant for E85 like the Bosch EV14 though. The 800cc will surely be too small for 400akw on E85 as they will struggle to do that on 98 unleaded.

Really ? From New ? That is strange. Ok so you've cut the stock connectors off yourself and done this. You get what I'm saying right ? Why did you not go the much superior Bosch EV14 injector ? The Denso / Sard injectors are not cheap new for such an old design. Right connector from EFI hardware in Vic. https://www.efihardware.com/products/1512/injector-plug-Japanese-low-guide

Don't need to trim anything with the right connectors as those connectors are either upside down when you were trying to fit, or they were put onto your wiring upside down mate. You are still using a high guide connector on a low guide injector, hence being upside down (wrong).

Oh, my, god. Really ? What injectors were you running before as they are not the standard injector bosch type EV1 style connectors. You are trying put the connector on upside down for a start as the push release goes the other way, but it still won't fit - why ? I'll tell you. The Denso / Sard 800cc low impedance injector uses the Denso "low" guide connector and your loom is fitted with the Denso "high" guide connectors (which are on the Denso / SARD low impedance 1000cc injector by the way). You need the Denso low guide connector or butcher the injector side guides (cut off) for those 800cc ones. Or just get rid of that and get some 980cc + Bosch EV14 injectors, then you can delete your resistor pack.

Isn't this guy American ? So that would be $47k USD correct ? Still you probably shouldn't as above.

Just thought I would add Regarding belts, the power steering belt on the 32 GTR version has to be shorter as the stock 4PK950 is to long. Has to be changed to the same as aircon. Belts- Alternator - 4PK880 Aircon - 4PK925 Power steering - 4PK925 Also re. Torque on 26 balancers. We use an old starter motor cut in half and welded locked, so you can use it as a flywheel locking device. No problem getting to 460nm.

Active diffs are wider with shorter axles / driveshaft's in gtst and Gtr. The stub axle / half shafts have round flanges on both. Gtst is 5 even bolt, GTR is 6 even bolt. Equal length splines too on left and right half shafts.

I think that's the point though, as in he's trying to avoid rewiring the auto tcu module directly to an auto turbo ecu directly. I think that is what is going to have to be done in this situation though as you've pointed out.

is this ecu for use with the 25de loom with a turbo conversion, or just an automatic Gtt 25det ? If it's the latter your still in the same situation as your auto is wired and controlled from the separate auto module. An auto turbo ecu is not going to sort you out unless it communicates with the stock auto module. Your really fishing on this one. STICK TO ONE THREAD FOR YOUR PROBLEM, as the same people will be telling you the same thing, no matter how many different threads you start. Gtsboy and Rusty nuts have already told you that using your Na loom with an auto turbo ecu ain't gonna magically fix anything. I understand its a shit situation but your gonna have to go somewhere that has some experience with conversions like this.

Seems like the correct way to do it to me, he just started at E85 and went down to 98 ron in increments instead of starting on 98 like I mentioned. Actually that sounds like a better way to do it.

so your fuel and ignition timing was set on 98 and then your fuel and timing was set on e85, and then your saying your relying on the flex sensor for fuel / timing difference changes for anywhere in between the two. How is the fuel and timing calculated / compensated for ? Surely by doing just the 2 tunes would just linearize the difference. From what I've been told the fuel / timing settings on say E40 should not be half way between the 98 and E85 settings, which I assume it would be with your tune. The difference between blends of the two tunes is apparently not linear for air fuel ratios or timing advance. More than one Sydney workshop mentioned this, first one I can remember was JEM. Who did your tune rb man ?

Aha, got it. I though that might be the case, but it said 98ron on dyno sheet for fuel. So, what was it on 98 ? At least I know what to expect if I ever decide to run E85 on my 33. From what I've gathered talking to some Sydney tuners for a flex tune you fully tune on 98, and then tune a E10, E20 increments ect. all the way to E85. Is this the way it was tuned ? Just starting to look at E85 as it has to be trucked up in drums here as the closest pump E85 is 1500km away. Im coming to Sydney next week to talk to a few workshops / tuners regarding this. My 32 will be going flex with the 6466 on its 2.8 tune so I'll be getting the ground work happening now. Might see some of you guys cars around.

R3C just doesn't like lots and lots of high power, high rpm 4wd launches. No metallic or ceramic based clutch does because of the heat it generates, which leads to warped plates. Great clutch for holding power once you're moving. Coppermix Nismo SHOULD drive better than R3C, more like the TS2B. That said, R3C will still handle more abuse than a Nismo any day.

yeah that's right it does show derived torque, just not at 785nm . Dunno where 785nm come from as the derived torque graph clearly shows increments of 50nm vertical blocks, and is labelled as such with 200 at 4th block, 400 at 8th block and has 11 blocks shown. So just under top of 11th block is about 540nm, similar to around what admS15 mentioned. I'm still intrigued at the 356.4kw at wheels on 20psi with 98. I have GT-SS turbos on my 33 which are almost the same turbo as -7 / R1 except with a larger compressor trim of 56 (vs R1 with 55 trim) and I can't get near that. Usually it dynos at 310 - 330kw on 98ron at 22psi. Runs mid 11s at anywhere between 116 and 120mph.