BK

You absolutely sure they are Nismo R1 then ? Output of over 350kw at only 20psi on 98ron seems very high does it not ? Also can you tell me how is R1 different than -7 turbos ? The specs supplied look identical to me. If I am missing something enlighten me as I am curious. Also your derived torque is on the bottom graph of your dyno sheet which is clearly under 600Nm as mentioned. Nismo R1 Turbo: (Specs from RHD Japan) Compressor Housing: T3 (A/R 0.42) Compressor Wheel: T3 (Trim 55) Bearing: Ball Bearing Turbine Housing: T25 (A/R 0.64) Turbine Wheel: GT25 (Trim 62) Max. efficiency: 73% Max. air pressure ratio (at boost pressure): 103% (1.35kg/cm2) Garrett 707160-7 Turbo: (specs from Garrett) Compressor Housing: T3 (A/R 0.42) Compressor Wheel: T3 (Trim 55) - Ind: 44.5mm - Exd: 60.0mm Bearing: Ball Bearing Turbine Housing: T25 (A/R 0.64) Turbine Wheel: GT25 (Trim 62) - Wheel Dia: 53.8mm

edited - yes manual ECU.

WGNC34 Stagea RB25DET NEO manual transmission ECU

Yes, Bosch 0 280 158 333 EV14 1550cc @ 3 bar / 1650cc @ 4 bar available from EFI hardware, Taarks or Golebys. Golebys also can flow match a set in house for an extra $99 as apparently the Bosch injectors flow rates hugely vary - highly recommended to do this. I had this done on a set I purchased from them. While we're on this, what's the go with the Bosch 1250cc injectors that Kudos Motorsport have ? Bosch Motorsport don't list these, but being long nosed type I take it they are the 980cc ? . They list the 0 280 158 333 1462cc @ 3 bar EV14 injector (the ones I guess people call 1550cc) and the 0 280 158 040 980cc @ 3 bar EV14 injector (1000cc right ?), so what's the go with what Kudos have ? Is it a modified version of the 980cc ? The 980cc is supposedly 1150cc at 4 bar, so would they really be 1250cc or just trying to pump a number up over everyone else's injectors? It's pretty annoying the way everyone supplying these injectors is referring to the size at all different base pressures, like calling the 1550cc ones 1650cc. Bloody hell even calling them 1550cc is misleading as they are actually 1462cc according to Bosch AT 3 BAR, which is what I thought the comparison standard was supposed to be. Geez. Anyway anyone know about the Kudos ones ?

At that compression you would be retarded to want to rebuild that. Stock rb26 is 171psi factory which nobody ever gets from stock, 160 odd is awesome. Pull head off, keep engine in car. Sort head, gasket, timing belt, done. Check valve clearance while your down there, be silly not to.

All multiplate clutches have a changeable centre hub by design, so thats not anything special. Maybe your R3C seems a bit nicer to drive in a rwd car, because any metallic triple plate I've had in a GTR has a hair trigger and not really slippable, definitely nowhere near a standard or full face clutch plate type. I've had ORC (Ogura), Xtreme (ACS), Exedy and OS Giken all in triples and all basically felt like the same clutch. OP, The Nismo twin, NPC twin or even the OS giken TS2B will probably be a nicer clutch to drive for you and handle your power for quite sometime. $1500 or less though is going to limit you to buying a single plate though, as I think you'll need to stretch a bit more to at least go a twin or triple if you can afford it.

In a rwd application under 400kw yes, so fine for the GTT in this application, but not in a GTR launching at 7000rpm +. I killed a brand new one in one drag weekend, completely warping the metallic floating discs to the point the clutch wouldn't disengage. Probably not relevant in this situation, but just pointing out that they are not the "be all to end all" of clutches at all. They also drive like shit on the street, very hair trigger engagement.

What turbos is on this car again, Nismo R1 as earlier mentioned ? That's -7 or R34 N1 from all accounts right ?

HKS turbo photos finally.

Canister or ABS signal is not going to throw an atessa code 16 by itself though. You need the manual so you can check the correct place to check voltage values, sensor resistance and wiring continuity, so you can definitely say yes its the wiring to sensor, atessa ecu thats fault ect. or yes the sensor is stuffed but wiring, voltage ok ect. Don't guess, confirm.

Just because your g sensor indicator is white not red just means is hasn't had an impact, it could still be electrically stuffed. Before that gets replaced though I think it's time to get the multimeter out and the R32 GTR manual to start chasing something. I'm sure it should give some resistance readings for the unit. If you do find you do need the g sensor under the centre console I have a spare confirmed working R32 GTR unit.

They are basically asking everyone "what car is better" ? Very American to ask that, and all that does is instigate the stupid posts on the you tube comments section. Why do we need to compare them as the 32 and 34 in the video are completely different, and have very different build concepts. Both are very good in different ways, but not really directly comparable. Well done to Dahtone on the electronic throttles, but I still have to ask, "why" ? Just to be different ?

Survey for who ? People that have never owned or driven a GTR to make an.opinion on what they think is better ? Funny you say that "WICH" Skyline you like the most in the vid as 32 vs 34 when the first one is a 33.

New photos ! NEW R34 GTR lower shifter bushes - $10 100mm turbo bell mouth. Anodised blue - $80 HKS EVC III boost controller complete with instructions. Max 2 bar boost. - $270 HKS EVC IV boost controller complete with instructions. Max 2.5 bar boost. - $290 6 x 1000cc low impedance 1000cc Denso / Sard injectors. 0.85ms lag. Denso high guide plug type. - $700 FIRM 1.6 bar electronic boost gauge with 60mm mount cup and peak / hold controller. No boost lines into cabin. - $110 NEW 6 x Golebys 11mm Bosch injector adaptors with o rings. Full length. - $70 HKS T51S 1.00 A/R turbo pics tomorrow. - $1500 ono

Are you in Alice ? Come and see me if serious. But really your lucky the admin didn't just lock this as you may as well said "how do I get more power without spending jack shit". Don't ever say "power" and "budget" in the same sentence please.

yep. My quote for box only last year was $24500 + gst. Then add strain gauge shifter, shift indicator ect. and yes is around $28k now. quote from ppg was $23500 inc. gst installed into case for the sequential but includes everything by comparison. Have they said this hgt set can be made to fit the Gtr case or have a Gtr specific case ?, because that is not a GTR in first video and they talk about being rwd boxes in the pdf. Makes the PPG seem not too badly priced if there is no direct fit.

No you won't. Might get a bit more boost as better intercooler should have less pressure drop across the core.

Nitto billet 2.8 crankshaft - SOLD AND GONE ! Oil cooler sold pending payment, read again, PENDING PAYMENT ! Still for sale until that. I will get turbo and 1000cc Denso / Sard injector pics up soon. Also have NEW 6 x Bosch full length injector adapters for sale 11mm rail - $80 posted 60mm boost gauge with remote mount MAP sensor 1.6BAR. Remote mount peak / hold setting controller. Boost gauge without pressure in cabin ! Comes with 60mm gauge cup too ! - $110

You need to comply with ANDRA, not CAMS for drag racing. Although Chromoly is allowed in ANDRA, most off the shelf bolt in cages aren't.

It does say GT2860 on the dyno sheet for induction, so I take it they've been upgraded now. Edit: posted at the same time.

no the gear stick is actually two pieces put together from factory. Only way to get that new ring intact is with a NEW shifter. This part is a completely different removable ring on a proper Nismo quick shifter.

you do realise you can't remove or replace the nylon upper part between the ball and the stick right ? Well not without destroying it. You cant get over ball end and doesnt go over the upper shifter shaft. It is put on at factory before they bond the rubber on the shaft and is why part 32875-V5002 you listed is not in Nissan fast as a GTR part. when you say "bonded rubber" above, that part you've listed is just a lower oil seal rubber and has nothing to do with the shifter being tight or loose. The bonded rubber they talk about stiffening is in the stick itself that links the ball end shaft to the gearknob end. The main thing that really only makes a difference to slop in the shifter is the lower nylon locating bush or gearbox shifter centralising springs being worn mate. Just curious but have you ever actually pulled the shifter out and had a look, because it doesn't sound like it.

Yeah I would say 10% solid short shifter as the stick is black, not the 25% quick shift as yes the stick is chrome on the quick shift. FYI there is absolutely no difference of noise or vibration when using the quick shift that I can detect. Just buy one. Sounds like you want one and the solid short shifter is only a little bit more expensive than a stock shifter.

Why are they telling me the 30th of May for stock then ? I deal with Patrick and Russell from RHD on a weekly - monthly basis and they assured me this week. That sucks for you if that's the case. Maybe they only allocated a specific order ? Maybe ask for a refund if that is the case and get from Jacky at CJ motor in Qld or Darron Corrigan at Just Jap in Sydney. RHD is generally the best in the business.

Pretty much this. I will say though that my 32 when I got it from Japan was made to work with one afm on a single with a power fc pro. Put down 530kw with that setup, but have since moved on to 4 bar MAP with Haltech elite 2500. I thought tuning via 4D when using a MAP sensor alleviated these light load and emissions control issues ?