BK

Sold pending payment: NEW R32 GTR genuine Nissan Pitwork power steering belt 4PK950 NEW R32 / R33 GTR lower gearbox shifter boot Used R33 GTR genuine rear upper control arms Used R32 GTR genuine rear upper control arms

Yes you need an OS Giken hub specifically. Although sorry to say TS2BD does not have an interchangeable centre hub like the R series (R3C, R4C), the hub is part of the friction plates. This design makes it more expensive to rebuild the clutch as opposed to most high end multi plate designs, because the centre hubs are dampened and part of the plate, instead of solid and having a separate hub. So in your case you would need a different clutch to run the 26 tooth input shaft which kinda sucks for you. Id sell the clutch and get a modular type clutch. See what I mean below: TS2BD R3C

R32 GTR = 12mm thread R33 / R34 GTR = 18mm thread like most wideband sensors (NTK, Bosch) That's why a lot of dump pipes like HKS come with the reducers to suit all models of sensor, as I have a set of reducers that came with my HKS dumps that I didn't use as they were fitted to my 33 and weren't required. All are 3 wire, all are 0 -1v, but front sensor has square 4 pin plug (still only 3 wire) and rear has rectangular 3 pin plug. That said I think they do bugger all in the grand scheme of things, and are probably only worth retaining on stock ECUs. On a side note I believe it is nearly impossible to decode engine numbers with year and model makes, as this info is not contained within Nissan FAST. This means even Nissan can't tell you. The only thing I've noticed is RB26 blocks that were fitted from factory all seem to end with an A.

Thats essentially what I have, with an OS giken centre plate and the optional billet selector barrel interlock. I take it your talking about the input shaft spline. You can get either Nissan 24 tooth 25.4mm or GM / Holinger 26 tooth 28.5mm input shaft splines, you specify when ordering. I upgraded to the 26 tooth, It's much beefier and really should be used instead of the Nissan spline. What clutch do you have ? If it's a multiplate just get the different centre hub for your clutch as they generally all have the 26tooth hubs available. My ATS triple centre was about $250 and the Gikens are cheaper at around $150 from memory.

Probably regarding the "aromatics" I guess, as it is a known octane booster. Toluene is listed as Toxic, while Benzene is a known carcinogen. I'm sure the old BP ultimate listed "Toluene" specifically in concentration regarding BP ultimate though. You make both from crude oil so, yeah. Toluene, pungent sweet smell, Benzene gasoline smell, which is weird because I was under the impression Toluene was essentially paint thinners.

Just a correction to the 98ron info. BP ultimate now uses up to 1% Benzene for the octane boost instead of Toluene, and still uses no Ethanol. Minimum RON = 98 Minimum MON = 86 Not sure why the switch to benzene as I though Benzene was more carsinogenic than Toluene (that's before combustion though) although they are chemically very similar. Still the only 98 that states in a data sheet NO ethanol that I can find. All others state may contain ethanol % traces, but is definitely not used for octane boost. Puma claims no Ethanol after contacting them (had engine failure a while back on their fuel) but am yet to see a data sheet to back it up. BP ultimate ingredients below:

The Haltech flex sensor is extremely accurate for reading ethanol content. Being based (or is resold ?) on the GM continental sensor I believe it is the benchmark for sensing ethanol. With Caltex Vortex 98 it flicks between 0.0 - 1.0%, but Caltex does state that Vortex MAY contain ethanol. BP Ultimate 98 definitely does not, it's part of their selling point, but yes does use Toluene. Don't know about the other 98ron fuel, but for 98ron ethanol content is supposed to be a bit frowned upon. It is certainly not the basis to raise the Ron to 98 that is for sure. The point is the Haltech flex sensor is extremely accurate. It has to be as the good ECUs rely on this info for timing advance or retard. If it was not accurate heaps of cars would be going BANG !

Injectors not sold. Everything still up for sale from first page.

I should have all the pre 97 stuff that was in good condition that came out of my box when I broke 3rd and build my OS Giken, if that helps. Actually I should have 2 sets of everything (obviously not 3rd main gear, just one)as I just recently had a dog box done too.

you are going to need essentially the same parts as doing an OS Giken gearset into a pre 97 box. – 3rd gear synchronizer baulk ring ( 1 x 32604-30P61) – 4th gear synchronizer baulk ring (1 x 32604-40P61) – Slider(1 x 32611-AA510) – Hub Assy(1 x 32605-30P11) – Energizer inserts(3 x 32609-70L15) – Energizer insert springs (2 x 32603-30P00) I'll check but I think that's it, unless you use the above in pre 97 stuff.

yes it is when all other rbs are around 150Nm. You'd be surprised when doing it that its easy to get to say 200Nm, then to get to the 460Nm it was around 1/4 of a turn more. Took notice the last couple of times to confirm this. Hardest part is getting a good quality 3/4 inch drive torque wrench as they are worth heaps.

How about just go off the 440 - 466 Nm as is in the manual ? We use an rb26 starter motor that is cut in half and welded up locked to lock flywheel and a 3/4 inch drive torque wrench, and go to 460Nm. Pretty easy when flywheel is locked properly, And the right length torque wrench.

I've gone the 6466 divided 1.00 a/r exhaust housing on a Nitto 2.8. Exhaust is 90mm front pipe into twin parallel 75mm cats, into 100mm catback. Will report back when I have the E85 tune. Will be getting tune done by Con at CRD. All reported as being able to max out around for 600kw on roller dyno (depending on engine, cams, yada yada)

Sorry but I fully have to necro this thread..... For future reference to anyone coming across this on an RB26 GTR. The reason you have a green wire with red trace unaccounted for is because there is a small one wire patch loom for the oil temp sensor, about 250mm long. One end goes to the temp sensor on block ( the one with a red spade crimp connector in my case) and the other end goes to a grey connector on the chassis rail loom above the front diff. It is not immediately apparent that it is the same thing unless you untape the loom to discover this. Was asking the same thing earlier this year on the Nitto 2.8 build and never picked up on it before, and I've probably done 9+ RB26 rebuilds before. Must have been the first time I'd unplugged it at the chassis rail connector and the oil temp sensor. Yay for thread necro !

sequential dog is not necessarily faster at all than an h pattern dog under clutchless shifts , but it does take the error out of shifting, as it can be easy to stuff up your shift across the gate from 2nd to 3rd. Look at this years gtr challange, I think you'll find that the fastest Gtr with a clutch pedal used a ppg 5 speed h pattern. Ill have to look at it again but I know he does 8's on the drag strip too, not just Coota. The price difference between sequentials and H pattern dogs is still quite a massive gap too. No one is getting into a sequential for less than $20k now. I prefer an h in the street as you can go direct to neutral, select reverse easily and skip gears. I don't need to shift it like a motorbike box going down from top gear individually. For circuit or drag it would be hard to beat a sequential for ease of use though.

yes your correct with the way Nissan codes blocks, just never even heard of a 5L3.

How about you check your actual engine number ? You know on the drivers side towards the front, it will start with RB something. Rusty nuts sounds like he's right as I've never heard of an 5L3 block. There is a 5L7 stagea block that appears to be a 25 though.

What time are you cracking now with the PPG sequential ? How much was just the box upgrade ? My quote from PPG direct was $23.5 k for them to do the box. Sound close ? Really wanted a sequential but changed my mind as the car is still more street than race.

Cool man, thanks. Let's set what I turn up. 1995 BCNR33 in 2003 had 62000km, currently 81500km in 2019. 10/1989 BNR32 had 81000km in 2007, currently 91500km in 2019. I recon 33 will be legit, but 32 might be 50/50. Interesting indeed.

cool, because if I grenade the box SAU will be the first to hear about it. I think I went out on a limb because I've had the Trust / Quaife 6 speed dog three times and had my heart set on a PPG. The Trust 6 speed is a wicked box, I just think the gearset gears are made from not so great material compared to PPG or PAR. Out of the the 3 Trusts I completely smashed one on 3rd, but that might have been me with a 3rd to 4th gear staging burnout on MT ET streets before I'd hit the staging water ( dry sticky burnout). Other difference I've noticed is the box changes better than the Trust. I think it is because the teeth on the dog rings are further apart, giving more time to engage gear in comparison. 6 dog teeth compared to like 8 or 9, and chunkier teeth too. I really hope I can report in say a years time and say the PAR engineering was the right choice. All up we are talking about a $12k gearbox for the PAR. The PPG by comparison was going to be $15.5k, so not a lot in it when you're talking $10000 plus box. Almost in sequential territory but I was set on the combo I have, which PPG couldn't do. Fingers crossed ? By the way its Haysam (Sam) Chalak, the PAR engineering gearset machinist. Not to be confused with Sam Charlick in SA from Neat Gearboxes, the assembler / engineer.

I suppose so, I'm probably one of them too ? Drag racing you can run anything, its all the other stupid ANDRA rules. Aren't there guys is Perth running GTRs with sequentials for circuit ? Obviously sequentials are the box of choice for time attack too. Are they allowed in Tarmac rallies ?

I was referring to the OS Giken OS-88 sequential and the PPG GTR sequential. They are race transmissions. Who buys one of these without competition in mind to some degree and Who would buy one for a dedicated street only car ?

Where are you getting the checks done ? I wouldn't mind doing it on my own GTRs to have the paperwork. I did buy them a long tome ago though, so I dont know if anything will come up. Bought my 33 in 2003 and my 32 in 2007.

He is asking about PAR engineering, not PPG. Pfitzner is fairly well documented as there is a lot more in existence. Dog engagement over synchro you mean, as straight or helical cut gears have nothing to do with clutchless shifting, and is essentially the reason you get a dog box. You go straight cut gears as the load on the gear tooth is even, as opposed to helical which causes a thrust / side load effect. The more torque you have the more this becomes a problem, which is why I'm very surprised the OS-88 and PPG sequentials are helical, and the main reason I have not purchased one. If I want a sequential it would most certainly be a Holinger.

A few shots of the box. Has a modified 10 plate transfer behind it with an ATS triple plate clutch.