BK

Use Sam at Neat gearboxes in Adelaide if you want to go the PAR route. Send him your box and he will do the rest for you, from sourcing all the parts to assembly.

Threebond 1207C. Threebond specifically is actually what the Nissan genuine sealant is, execpt for double the price.

Wheel replacement or rebalancing of them, housing seals, etc. If you think there ok, get them. It all depends if you want new or not really, they'll work just as good.

Define rebuild. If the cores need replacing, not worth it. If they're in good condition, just run them, as proper rebuild will take you back to "should've just bought a new set" price. At $2800 a pair new, I'd just wait for a new set myself. This is for the GT2859-2 (aka -9 aka GT-SS). Skip the GT2860-7.

14411-24U10 is a 360deg plain bearing turbo like the Nismo R32 version. Seller is saying same as GT-SS, which they are not. Don't waste your time with the plain bearing twins. Matty you might just have to bite the bullet and get new ball bearing -9s. Kudos seems to be the cheapest.

I bet that was Terrafirma. Don't ever buy genuine Nissan stuff from the US, always a rip off. Japan - JPcarparts, Nengun or RHDJapan Australia - Amayama It's all coming from Japan anyway, and I'm sure all of them will ship to Europe. I deal with all of them. They're like $42 AUD on Amayama. For service to Australia and the competitive pricing, most of my genuine Nissan gear now goes through Amayama or RHDJapan. RHD always quicker, Amayama mostly a bit cheaper, in Australia. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/4797023u00

It is part of the alternator and starter loom, plugs in near engine bay fuse box.. You can pick up a used one from JDM garage for under $100 complete.

Front R33 GTR abs sensor ring part number is 47970-23U00 They are about $50 each, or over $100 each if you get ripped off by an American seller. Youtube ABS tone ring replacement, there are videos on it. The reason for going to a thinner tooth is to have a bigger gap between the sensor teeth. If the gap is too small the sensor can skip teeth in the sensor tooth count detection, depending on the air gap from sensor to teeth. It's like a hall effect crank trigger. If this happens the signal will not be correct. You can definitely use the later thin teeth on 32s as well, as they were designed for the wide tooth, small gap. So using the thin tooth, big gap setup improves accuracy of the signal on a 32 as they are still all 46 tooth, regardless of tooth width and spacing gap, so frequency signal ends up the same. Using a wide tooth, small gap (like the left one, a 32 style ring) on the 33s onward would more than likely cause signal issues, with tooth skipping very likely. This ring is the only difference between a 32 and a 33 shaft.

33 GTR onwards use the thin teeth and the ABS tone rings are 46 tooth front and back. 32 uses the wide tooth. The ABS tone rings are able to be purchased separately from Nissan and are interchangeable.

I think you need to re-read the post you quoted...

Did you get this sorted with the level readings ? Was thinking about doing this too in the Haltech on the current 32 build. The resistance values to work off are 90 - 0 ohms with the Nissans. In a 32 GTR they are actually 6 at full and 80 for empty. The values are linear.

Yes, yes it does. I've had 2 failed engines in the past from losing the spark plug ground electrode and it did exactly this. Ever lost one of the plug tips in the past ?

Do people check post dates anymore ?

Yes absolutely, which is more of a big end and mains bearing clearance issue regarding viscosity when an engine is really being pushed. Large clearances will require a thicker oil, small clearances lighter oil. We are talking about a mostly standard engine here so a 10w40 will be more than adequate cooler or no cooler. If he drops in 10w60 still won't hurt it, oil pressure will definitely be more which ain't a bad thing - cooler or no cooler.

What does oil weight have to do with oil temps with a cooler ? It's not like it runs hotter with one or the other.

Yes I know that Garrett -9 = HKS GT-SS. Was wondering if it has been revised / improved by Garrett as old -9 part is 707160-5009S and new part is 836026-5002S. Wasn't there a chra change with different bearings or something along those lines when the G series was released ? Anyway this is a G series thread not GT of GTX so I'm probably a bit of topic asking that here.

Hey Geoff, similar question as I run the original HKS GT-SS turbos on the 33R, which I was the -9 equivalent when Garrett started supplying them. Is there a 2859R that supercedes the original design ? Don't want -7 or -5, just a better -9 if there is one, and would it be worth it as I'm quite happy with the existing. The same with a little more top would be nice. And before someone else posts not interested in the new Tomei 550 overpriced crap or HKS GTIII-SS Mitsubishi plain bearing snot.

Only if your cooler sucks. A good oil cooler drops temps massively. I run the Trust coolers with 70deg C thermostats, so they don't pass below 70. The 32 has a 13 row and the 33 a 10 row. Castrol edge 10w60 is good stuff. I use it on 2 of the GTRs, but we also have 45deg C summers. On the big HP RB26s or heavily competition the weights favoured by the big workshops seem to be the 10w60 or 15w50 depending on climate and/or bearing clearances. With your power level and being a street only car the 10w60 is probably overkill, but it won't hurt it. 10w40 is the generally accepted standard weight for an RB26.

This is the dude to talk to. It's a 33 but will answer all of your questions about what you want to know with realistically following through with a conversion. https://m.facebook.com/Barra33-2083167931924629/

195kg seems to be the long motor consensus from Ford mods. Make no mistake, they are definitely heavier than an RB26, and they are pretty weighty. How much, dunno. We pulled the old man's Barra and Tremec Tr6060 box out of his XR6 FG last year, the motors are fricken huge, but the engine bay in an FG is also massive. I'd hate to work on one in a skyline. The backward intake and exhaust is a big one for not doing it.

Hi there mate. I know the idea of a Barra in a 32 sounds on paper like a really good idea, but I think the reality will not equal your expectations. I love the idea - in theory. Would I ever do it - hell no ! Everything that everyone else has posted have brought up very valid points which you seem to not really be interested in taking on board. I personally love the Barra ( as most people in this forum do too) and have one with the ZF 6 speed. Have you ever driven an XR6 ? I would suggest doing that before deciding that an 32 with one would be better. The FG is a pretty decent car. One question, are you absolutely dead set on doing it, or are you just floating the idea around ?

Never used it on the Tomei or Nitto ones we use.

? Very lucky, you have quite ideal forced induction weather over there. I consider 30deg C quite a cool, moderate day where I am. Even places like Melbourne and Adelaide go well past 40 C these days in summer. So by the way where are you located Pattey21 ?

...and you live in New Zealand don't you ? Define a hot summers day. Ambient temps are quite a lot lower there on average.

Have you thought about a second hand standard GTR intercooler ? People get more than 300rwkw out of them reliably.