BK

As above, custom age is great if you've got money to burn and are aiming for 500rwkw+. I used them on my 32, but meh. Do you need it, probably not as 2000s will be adequate.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Nissan-R32-Skyline-5MT-Manual-Console-Shifter-Boot-Surround-Bezel-Trim-OEM-/123956632601 Just get this you cheap arse mofo. It's 70 bucks and in Canada.

Just looked that you're still running AFMs too. Piss them off and get a 3 or 4bar MAP sensor to run on the Elite. Apart from that though - sort fuel system, have good ignition system, have good engine management, boost it more and report back in with results. That said if your long engine is standard, I don't know how keen I'd be to chase over 400rwkw...

I think it's been pretty well covered but... Number one is going to be completely rethink your fuel system. You've already got -5 turbos, so get an Elite, run E85 and see what you can get. They'll go pretty to close to your goal on E85. Bosch 1550cc injectors and a Walbro 460lph fuel pump (or two) would be minimum requirements in my opinion over what you've got now. Also suggest redoing the fuel lines too, as the stock 5/16 hardlines are a massive restriction, no matter what anyone tells you. You can do it, but high pressure and more flow through stock lines is not recommended. AN6 or preferably AN8 lines help a lot with keeping fuel pumps running at lower pressures, and therefore lower current draw. Makes pumps last longer and fuel cooler going bigger, and if you do change lines, change supply AND return lines. Changing lines will also probably mean getting a decent fuel reg that has at least AN6 ports on it too, as it looks like you have one of those Sard/HKS/Nismo Jap equivalent regs in there. No good - they have only have very small ports to match 5/16 lines. Might also need better coilpacks depending on condition, so be prepared just in case yours pack it in at higher boost levels. Obvious choice is the R35 coil.

I think you are talking about the weather strip retainer correct ? If so these are worth mega bucks for the 32 new, like over $1000 per side. RHD have them, but Kudos has them in stock for $660, which has been reduced heaps as they obviously can't move them. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/upper-window-weatherstrip-retainer-suit-nissan-skyline-gts25-door-coupe-p-1840.html Here they are on RHD https://www.rhdjapan.com/nissan-oem-weatherstrip-retainer-left-r32-2dr.html Do you want to replace them because the covering is all cracked ? If so don't replace them. Strip all of that coating off and polish it. They are stainless steel underneath and looks actually better than having the coating on. Did this on my 32R.

You want 30psi+, I think you'll find everyone will be recommending Supertech valve springs. Much higher seat pressure, very good stuff ?

No, the Tomei type B is shit. Their seat pressure is pretty low for high boost. I had them, nothing but problems.

Oil leaks are never a once off. I will almost guarantee whoever did you clutch stuffed up regarding your oil leak. You have gone from pull to push, this means you will have a new gearbox input shaft front cover on it to suit a push clutch. The extreme stuff uses the factory push or pull stuff, it does not use a converter so the input shaft cover is changed. When the front cover has been changed I guarantee the 3 bottom bolts have not been sealed correctly. Needs to be sealed with Threebond, not thread locker, as these bolts pass into the gearbox oil pan section. Watch out for a leak at the bellhousing like this If it is, it is the 3 bolts for this cover on the front of the box leaking. Box out job to fix.

What EXACTLY is the problem ? Turbo that does not pressure, what the hell does that mean ? No boost at all ? No boost on one turbo ? Boosting, but not as much as you would like ? You really need to explain, elaborate and detail the symptoms of this so called problem - if infact there is one.

HKS EVC IV boost controller - SOLD Nismo BNR32 upper arms - SOLD

Hey mate, pull your head in. You come onto this site, talk utter incoherent garbage, and then call someone an asshole. Good work, you'll get your answers doing that. It is clear that english is not your first language and are having trouble getting your point across, as nothing in the way you say things makes any sense to any of us. If we know what you're on about sure, people will try to help you, but I suggest SAU is not the place to be asking about compound turbo diesel modifications on a BMW.

I will be very surprised if it will be a complete bolt in solution. If it exists, has anyone even fitted this combo into an R32 - R34 GTR yet ? When it is said that they sell a complete box only, is that a box that bolts to the transfer, or a complete box with a transfer developed ? The reason I'm asking is there is so much more to fitting this and getting it working than just whether the bell housing bolt pattern is correct and whether a transfer bolts to the back of it. If it is a box that has to bolt to the existing transfer, it still potentially opens up a can of worms getting it to work. If so, my questions would be: -Does the shifter linkage rail on the box connect at the correct shifter length and location within the transfer case ? That is how do you connect the shifter from the box to within the transfer case ? There is no way those boxes locate the shifter rail in the exact position required for the transfer case. -Does the entire assembly bellhousing to transfer end up the same length ? If not custom front and rear tail shafts are needed, and the shifter itself will not lineup within the chassis. -Does the box physically fit in the tunnel area or the GTR chassis without any tunnel modification ? Is a custom box cross member and box mount required ? -Dimensions of input shaft ? What spline (probably GM 26t, 28.5mm) but more importantly what length and spigot end size goes into crank ? Full custom clutch dimensions maybe required because of below: -Release mechanism setup of clutch ? Adapting if possible to RB style clutches. I could go on, but the devil is always in the details. Unless all if these issues have been addressed, then it could end up more costly than what it's worth compared to complete already available bolt in solutions. Interested to see how this develops and if anyone goes down this path.

Nearly all compressor cover boost ports are 1/8npt, 27tpi across BW, Garrett and Precision.

? Isn't it ? Yep just a raised up pallet, so something you can put the centre plate on, have the long front sections of the shafts pointing down while you're tapping them out. Easier than trying to tap them out sideways when the centre plate and geaset is mounted in a vice. Finished the teardown and rebuild on the old man's box and transfer case modification yesterday. A photo I thought you might find interesting proof of why not to use any smooth shift additives or anything but GL-4 oil in a GTR synchro box. This is a synchro from 1st, it is completely stuffed and has been attacked by incorrect oils being in the box. Nulon and Penrite additives are terrible for doing this. The new one is the shiny one obviously, and the discoloured one actually has some parts of the synchro teeth missing also. The gear also had a lot of synchro teeth missing, all stuck to the box drain sump plug.

You are correct, a loosely thrown around interval is 5000km, but that is largely dependant on the operator. Someone who is very skilled at changing gears in an H pattern dog box will cause little to no wear on the dog teeth faces. Same thing with a sequential with correctly setup strain gauge strategies correctly unloading the gears on shift, very little dog wear will occur. On the flip side someone just bashing a dog box around not shifting correctly will wear the flat sides of the dogs very quickly, to the point where they will jump out of gear on the slightest gear unload. This where km on box is not a good gauge for inspection, rather inspection intervals at X amount of hours, or x number events completed. You are also correct in the dog gear replacement. The main shaft gears usually have dog teeth on the side an a separate sliding dog that matches to it. What you have to replace can only be determined on a box teardown, so it is not impossible to predict what you're likely to need. Sometimes with only slight wear on the dog teeth you can get prolong the gear or sliding dog needing replacement by regrinding the dog teeth from being rounded off to square again. This will buy you more time with needing to replace anything, but eventually round again and need to be replaced. The biggest problem is that any of the above requires the box to be removed from the car, disassembled and inspected, possibly repaired, reassembled and reinstalled again - whether you replace anything or not. This is where the main cost in keeping a dog box alive is, not necessarily the cost of any parts that may or may not need to be replaced. When someone chooses to go dog engagement this has to be just accepted as the norm, and is the main reason why a synchro box makes more sense for a dedicated street only car.

Awesome ! That's just the collar for $45 right ? What's main shaft 3rd gear set you back, about $150 - $200ish ? Tapped them shafts out yet ? If you haven't, just put it on something like this, shafts facing down, and just alternate tap each shaft. Should come right out. SHOULD....

I think really just comes down to the inadequate design of the collar puller tool not exerting all of the force purely into the collar you are removing. My one has a perfectly neat fit on shaft, no slop, and is made out of pretty heavy duty steel. All force is transferred directly only into collar. Your setup was obviously straining the bolts too much. That sucks man because you have to get the collar off the other one and reuse it still.

Rebuild it for sure.

That won't cause flames as a sequential box is always going to be superior on the circuit, but that's not necessarily what we're all talking about is it ? It's a far too simplistic view, as not everyone wants a Sequential or dog box. Some people want helical gears, some straight cut gears. Some want synchro, some want dog engagement. But some people want an H pattern, or any combination of the mentioned configurations in a transmission. Driving an H pattern, synchro box on street is always going to be the easiest box to operate. I happen to like straight cut gears and dog boxes, but I like H pattern too. Albins and Holinger have been proven to make quality gear, but being sequential doesn't automatically mean stronger by definition. I hope your not under the impression you are going to spend $25k - $30k on a box and it be indestructible. The sequentials are not a set and forget fix, require regular teardowns like any dog engagement, and they also can break just like any other box. A sequential would be the last thing I would want, or need, on a mainly street driven car.

Can't do that, you're slowly loading everything up, hence why you're breaking shit. Rattle gun is the only way. You need that one quick burst shock to initially crack the collar. Once that is done, short bursts of the rattle gun until it's off. Remember you have to heat that collar up and expand it to get it back on, so it's always going to be on there stupid tight. My collar tool has held up doing them all this way, using a 2 jaw puller on the collar sleeve tool. Never broken or replaced the high tensile bolts ever.

Really ? That is some serious retardedness...

Hard one mate. I like my PAR dog, but definitely fix the PPG box whether you keep or sell though. What happened to it ?

You did use a rattle gun on your puller right ?

Hahaha, was wondering what you're next post might be ! No mate, they are absolutely that tight. Completely normal. Getting the shafts out now -

A few key points I'll mention about those wanting a Giken gearset which are usually overlooked. There was a reason I posted this - they have been very hard to get and RHD seems to be the pick for supply. They are in stock now, but next shipment is September or October if you miss out. Also those Greenline prices will absolutely not be updated, their site is terrible for this. This is about the cost breakdown of doing a box just for you guys thinking of doing one - The kit with input / no 5th is about $4.3k and with 5th about $5k before tax or shipping. With Covid-19 at the moment means no EMS from Japan either, so only shipping option will be by international courier = expensive. Usually DHL, which means you absolutely will pay GST as DHL are pricks for always picking this up. If you've got an old box budget about $1000 for series 3 upgrade parts and about a 1 - 2 month wait. Want a centre plate (recommended) ? Budget another $1200 - $1500. Want a GM / Holinger 26t spline upgrade ? Special order input shaft, and custom machining out of your existing gearbox front cover another 3.5mm diameter to fit it. Cost $500+ Can't get box in and out of car yourself ? $500 from workshop for box out. Same again for box back in, $500. Can't assemble gearset yourself ? Minimum $2k box strip and reassembly. Getting pretty close to a $10k box now, without a clutch. ....and they do break.