BK

Driveshaft shop in the USA. Rear 31 spline stub axles and 108mm CV driveshafts modelled on the Porsche design from them is about as serious as it gets. It's at least a $4k exercise though.

A really shitty wheel balance and alignment ?

Bit late to the party, but the genuine pigtail connector is 24028-ag006.

Same here

I've had cranks reground. 20 thou (0.5mm) max regrind as you're limited on the bearing sizes available for an RB. Steps are standard, 1, 10 and 20 thou undersize. Obviously it would be crack tested first before any work as mentioned. Looking at it, it might not be doable and if it is it would be definitely a 20 thou regrind for sure to be at all useable. That crank is also not "slightly" pitted. Looks like it's been left outside in the rain for a year.

If you're resistance across the contact is increasing under operating conditions compared to a measured value from a multimeter, you are severely overloading the contacts causing enough physical distortion for the contacts to move and not make properly. Actually you can see that with a multimeter. That's when you would test the switch contacts under load across each contact, looking for a potential difference between contacts. If I say have a pair of contacts that measure less than 1 ohm when closed, I would expect to have nearly identical voltage on both sides of the contacts under load. If I test it under load and have a 0.5v - 1.0v difference on the contacts, or more, you have determined you have a bad connection under load. Even if it "appears" to be working correctly, you have determined that there is a high resistance joint at that connection and the switch itself is acting as a load on the circuit. This creates heat, increases circuit current and causes shit to melt. Still haven't had to pull switch apart, all measured with a meter and condition of contacts verified as good or bad.

I agree. Probably shitty loom H4 plug connections and / or the H4 - H3C/H3 sub harness connector connections if on projectors.

"Should" be working. Using a meter would negate the need to pull the switch apart in the first place, and you would actually "know" that the switch is ok. Using a meter down at the H4 main headlight connector, same thing. You would "know" it's ok or not. Anything else is really just guessing.

They bought them in 97, then sold KKK to Siemens. This will be proper shit for the industry if Garrett goes down...

Well freaking use it. R32 switch wiring is in manual. Just because it "looks" ok means nothing. Clearly above Op's comprehension of electrical. Look up H4 relay harnesses on ebay - that's what you need for plug in as the main headlight harness is H4.

How can you diagnose anything like switches, fuses and power at connectors without a multimeter ? Get one

The stock solenoid works differently. It is pulsed from standard, but thats not practically the problem. The problem is that when de-energised it is normally closed, as opposed to normally open as you would with a 3 port Mac valve setup with wastegate actuator. The vacuum arrangement is different when using a normally open valve too. The stock solenoid feed from plenum is tee'd and directly the feeds solenoid and wastegate actuators, then ecu commands solenoid to energise and open, bleeding off the excess boost pressure actuator boost signal to back Infront of the turbos. A normally open Mac valve would not be tee'd and be fed directly from plenum, then to actuators. This normally closed setup is more like an external gate setup, except the bleed port is going back in front of turbos as an actuator air bleed instead of going to the second preloading port on an external gate. Why Nissan why ? Stock setup is stupid and appears to have problems controlling higher than stock boost pressures, that is, not being able to bleed off enough air to raise / control boost properly, reliably or consistently.

Look up adjusting tdc offset on the Haltech, you must get this correct before anything with trigger kits. You want to confirm 20 at light and on ECU when timing is locked.

Another peanut.... https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2002-nissan-skyline-gt-r-m-spec-nur-bnr34-manual-4wd/SSE-AD-6793939?pageSource=details&id=SSE-AD-6793939 I remember when the Nur was falling below $70k. Wow.

Fully serious. Test it on a gummy hose clamp or something else from your tank. It will strip the crap off everything. Obviously make sure your tank is pressure washed afterwards and left to dry, as the last thing you want in your fuel system is bleach. Results may vary depending on the crud in your tank, might need more but it's a good start with 8lt and will 100% work. Please post results for confirmation as I've seen no one recommend it before and has proven for me to be the only sure way that works. If you can seal the tank and invert it even better, as getting it off of the bulkhead area is the hardest part. Good round up weed killer substitute afterwards.

Yep I have cleaned multiple fuel tanks as I have cracked a 32 GTR fuel tank more than once. You're talking about the molasses like shit left from unleaded fuel right ? No, unleaded will not move it like you would think. After much trial and error - Bleach. Doesn't react with the HDPE the plastic tank is made out of. The bleach bottles are made out of the same material. Get about 8 - 10 litres, leave overnight. Swirl and agitate next day as required. It will bring it back to new.

Yeah but that's 94 AKI, which is really about 101 RON. Arguably our best unleaded here is BP ultimate 98 RON which has a 92 AKI. 9:1 will be fine.

Yes Shit 141 LPH or 2.35 L/min @ 3 bar By comparison a stock R32 - R34 GTR fuel pump is 221 LPH

Did you have no H3C plug on your headlight sub harness ? On the projector headlights you need this. Plugged into H4 main loom then splits to the H3 high beam and H3C low beam. Still available, about $40. You can then get rid of the ghetto headlight wiring. Speedo, I'll have to look into it.

Ok the R32 projector headlights low beams are H3C on series 1 and H1 in series 2 - both are H3 on high beam. The H1 low beam adaptor is infact a separate part - 26067-52F00. It is discontinued but is in stock from Terrafirma and eBay. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R32-GTR-GTST-GTS4-Head-Light-Connector-Assembly-26067-52F00-/123562676564 Problem is that if you have an early series 1 light that has the low beam projector H3C bulb originally, I don't think the H1 adaptor fits or clips in into the original H3C bulb retaining part on the light, even though the H1 bulb does locate. I have both here, I'll have to check.

Yes this is the actual heat exchanger. Retaining it with a new one is totally fine. It's definitely more of a heat exchanger to heat up the coolant faster than an actual oil cooler to cool the oil despite the description. It is definitely worth retaining if in cold climates with a street car. Yes Ross performance is Australian and make very good stuff. I think a few people within Australia will ship overseas that stock Ross parts like Hi Octane, Golebys or even Ross performance direct.

You really can't reuse the water heat exchanger part after a bearing failure, but you can with the filter block. I personally vote against direct adapters. Without the factory filter block you have no oil filter relief valve, which bypasses the filter in the event of a blockage, unless the aftermarket one you install has one (which most don't). That said, the Trust and HKS remote filter blocks actually do have an integrated thermostat and relief valve. To get rid of the factory heat exchanger you can just block it off and continue the coolant lines shown in the second photo. In both our 32s we have done this with a Ross blanking plate, retaining the factory filter block. Note in picture it is showing a filter on the engine. This has since changed to an external Trust oil cooler and filter relocation kit, still mounted to the factory filter block and heat exchanger deleted.

Did you even try to source one ? I think JDM garage has sold at least 4 - 5 Neo's since your first post, they sell them all the time. Give them a call see if they still have one.

I don't know why I bother sometimes.... I couldn't have spoonfed the information more.

Quite a lot of changes with body and interior stuff. Not even remotely the same car with a 2 door vs a 4 door.