BK

umm, no they are not going up in value. Brand new RB26 05U blocks are about $3500AU. They've been about that since as long as I can remember. That's a big difference in price to a Bullet billet RB26 block at around $14000AU (Not $13kUSD - don't know where that came from).

Yep the Advan AD08R in 265/35R18 was even wider than the Advan V103 in 275/35R18. I found a comment somewhere online that someone was complaining that the RS4 Hankooks in 265 was narrower than AD08R, and if so that would fit nicer for me. So I looked up the difference and sure enough the sidewall was nearly the same but the tread area on the RS4 was definitely 10mm narrower - both 265. So I went for those and they are definitely much nicer. No scrubbing at a ride height of about 355mm and camber at -1.0 front and -1.25 rear (I think). As mentioned above at least I just put the 265 AD08Rs on the 33 GTR so they were not wasted. Really the correct AD08R should be 255 on a 32. I know now what to use for AD08R on 18" and will be sticking with: R32 GTR - 255 R33 GTR - 265

Cast iron RB bare blocks are somewhere around 70 -75kg and a billet aluminium block is roughly about half that.

OEM RB26 cam gear cover - SOLD Camtech R32/R33 RB26 445B 272 / 9.7mm camshafts sold pending payment.

I vote no to change your block. Why fix what's not broken ?

Nothing "wrong" with it if you require it for your purpose, like actual motorsport. The original point was about billet blocks being like sequentials following the "image of cool" nowdays. Nice to have, but hardly necessary for non motorsport street cars. Which is back to the original question of why the OP feels he requires a billet over cast block.

Yep they definitely take some learning. Sounds like you need lots more practice on rev matching on the downshift, which is definitely the hardest part. I have had H pattern dog boxes for well over 10 years mate so I know their quirks and how to use them (most of the time 😂) That's right. Sequentials are all about tenths in motorsport, which is why they exist. Circuit, drag and rally / off road you can't beat them.

Thats why H pattern dogs exist. Not being able to skip gears, go straight to neutral or select reverse quickly shits me to tears in a street car.

Also why so many sequential boxes are going into street car non motorsport GTRs ?

I know billet blocks are good for rigidity when making massive power, but I was asking specifically the OP why he feels he needs / wants a billet block. Does he want 2000hp or just bragging rights ? Plenty of big power RBs not using them and new RB26 blocks are pretty affordable.

Referring to throttle bodies, they are not actually supposed to be taken apart, that's why there is nothing in the manual and you can't buy the individual seals and bearing parts separately from Nissan. Having said that I have disassembled them before and put a Reimax throttle refresh kit through them, which includes shaft seals and spring locators. Replaced all the bearings and return Springs too. Basically with the butterfly's removed the shafts have to be removed with a press. Unless there is actually something wrong with them I would advise you against doing it.

I love H pattern straight cut dog boxes. Would I put one in a daily or even fairly regularly driven car ? - HELL NO ! I've got an OS giken gearset in my 33. I love that box in that car and would never put dog engagement into it so I completely understand where you're coming from - good choice.

It will eventually if you keep doing it. Remember even on your new PAR synchro box, they are just standard Nissan brass synchros. They only tolerate that sort of abuse for so long, then you'll see this on your transmission drain plug:

I must have missed it, but why do you want or need a billet block ?

😭Nooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo !

I'm crushed ! Sorry, fixed my own post. Man, I was all pumped for you to start banging gears through with the 6466 !😁 Sorry but it will be pretty hard to bang a 9 out with a synchro box. Not impossible - but very,very difficult. I like the 143mph trap though 👍 and if I'm somewhere similar with my 6466 setup after the final tune I'll be pretty satisfied. So I take it you've got the straight cut PAR synchro set coming then ? I am still very keen to hear feedback from this transmission once in as this would be my choice for a synchro gearset over an OS giken these days.

You'll absolutely get your 9 with the PAR box coming.

Hey this setup sounds familiar 😀 Mate you'll like it, as with any dog box my PAR does full power clutchless upshifts. Who needs a sequential ?

@MistaMagoo Which are: The two top hoses from ATTESA reservoir are 41728-05U10 (Nismo 41728-RHR21) and 41738-05U10 which has no Nismo number because funnily enough it is not discontinued and still available from Nissan - very weird. The two bottom hoses that are in your pictures above you particularly need are 41728-05U00 (Nismo 41728-RHR20) and 41738-05U00 (Nismo 41738-RHR20). Got it ?

Yeah you need to find the original part number for what you want first. The Attesa hoses are in section 350 transfer control parts in Nissan fast.

You won't be able to just swap them over as factory solenoid is normally closed and when opens vents it's air in front of turbos. Mac valve when used on the twin turbo actuators will be plumbed in as normally open, directly feeding actuators, then pulses closed to raise boost level and vents the excess to atmosphere. If you already have a Mac valve setup like mentioned above, you will just block the actuator boost signal if you put a standard normally closed solenoid on the lines. Why do you even want to go from a Mac valve to the stock solenoid ? To go to factory boost ? If so and it's already plumbed in as a normally open solenoid to your actuators, just unplug the electrical connector and it will just run on actuator pressure.

I told you all new ATTESA, brake, HICAS and vacuum lines are now discontinued through Nissan and now have to be purchased through the Nismo heritage program. These parts are readily available through RHDjapan and Nengun. Basically what you need to do is jump on Nissan fast and get the original Nissan part numbers for them. Then you cross reference that with the new Nismo number through the above shops or Google it. Generally the first 5 digits of the 10 digit part number will be the same, then they change the last 5 from the original number to an RHR number which is the new Nismo coding.

That's actually the better way to do it, as you don't have to rebleed the ATTESA as you haven't opened the hydraulic line to air.

Yeah but they are not that much cheaper than a triple plate

Yes it's always been a wicked to drive car, with very wicked breakages to go with it. Power delivery was like a light switch before when it was running 10s. This time around so far, so good - everything feels as it should. Handles good, very progressive off boost and the dog box operates well. I am still yet to really lean on the car in kill mode as it hasn't seen a dyno since the 6466 has gone on. Making sure all the bugs are ironed out first. All tuning so far has been done by myself on the elite. That's why I thought I better pull my finger out and fit the rest of the trigger kit so I get it running on E85 (just need more tuning) and can turn the wick up. Found the rest of my trigger kit finally