BK

Hey no worries. I got mine from RHDjapan at about $1400ish for the pair, then a bit under $600 for freight, then a bit over $300 in GST / import duty / govt tax. Nengun was more expensive even before tax. Amayama was the cheapest at a bit under $1300, but wanted nearly $1200 to ship them ! Admittedly that includes all import duty and tax, but far out it seemed excessive. I've been sourcing stuff for a long time and no one is faster or more efficient than RHDjapan. Nengun is ok, but never ever are cheaper or faster than RHDjapan. From order to my door in two weeks. Amayama is generally good, but has been painfully slow since the pandemic hit. Still a good choice if you're not in a hurry.

I have a solution... Brand new outer sills from Japan. Not cheap at $2300 delivered incl. Tax

Thank you good sir ! I just wish the car was a bit better base to start with for his sake. He is 76 now and jumping under the thing is getting harder and harder for him to do. After discussion, the car will be completely redone again in Nissan 326 R32 white but will retain a black engine bay. When I say destroyed outer sills, I mean it. Probably the worst I've seen in 20 years. She'll be right mate, that'll just buff right out 👍

Car is really sad because of its stupid 32 brothers....Hasn't been washed since last event or even moved in over 3 months.... Don't worry, you're still my favourite

Haven't been very active lately updating my other build threads, mainly because of this car consuming most of my spare time over the last year or so. Here it is, completely unintentional, another single turbo R32 GTR that I'm building up / restoring which is now a 3rd GTR to take all my time and money. It's a November 1989 BNR32 which was originally a KH2 grey one that was resprayed to 326 white at some stage. This is actually a joint project between myself and my father Lyle, so this is going to be his GTR as I really have my hands full already with my own 32 and 33. The history on the car is a bit non existent, but basically the old man wanted a project now he has officially retired. He already has a WRX and an FG XR6, but wanted another GTR as he'd sold his previous KH2 1992 R32 GTR about 8 or 9 years ago for around $25k - and has been kicking himself ever since for not keeping it. So after a bit of searching we decided to obtain this GTR which was located in Sydney with a damaged engine. We flew over to inspect it in June 2019, said ok and went halves in it. Had to be shipped back to us in the NT not running at about $2500 alone. When it finally got here in August 2019, got it back to his house and inspected it properly - we both looked at each other and went "What the F have we just done ?!". Basically the car is heap of shit and will require a massive amount of work. Dad, you wanted a project - well you sure as hell have one now.... So up it goes onto the stands. Engine out and disassemble, gearbox out and disassemble - strip everything from engine bay. Problems we found (I'll keep it short for now): -Main and big end bearings on #1 completely stuffed -A few cracked piston rings -Crankshaft damaged, not salvageable -Water pump corroded and almost seized -Motor was not even bolted onto engine mounts ! Completely freeballin ! -Engine sump completely wrecked. Had been drilled out at the back and destroyed - guess someone tried to change an oil pump without removing the engine from the car and couldn't get to the rear main seal properly -Everything crappily resprayed black. I mean everything. Intake plenum, intake manifold, intake air chamber balance tube etc.etc.etc. -Completely blocked radiator -Transmission completely stuffed on input shaft gear, 1st gear synchro and main gear, 2nd gear synchro and main gear and all bearings stuffed. Gearbox loom damaged. -All wheel bearings and hubs destroyed -All ECU and engine bay wiring in poor condition. Had a link G4 in it that looked like a 10 year old thought was good enough install. Too much to mention but stuff like poor injector connectors with wires pulling out to stuff totally not installed or missing (eg. the entire knock sensor and oil pressure / temp harness missing ? Obviously no knock sensors installed either.) -Vacuum lines missing or plugged everywhere, absolutely no clutch or brake booster vacuum assist connected. -All brake pads and rotors destroyed -All brake calipers seized and leaking -Rooted suspension bushes and components everywhere -Crappy exhaust setup. No plumbed in external gate - had gate outlet pointing directly to chassis in engine bay, no cat, restrictive varex muffler, poor and inadequate hanger anount -Had twin Walbro 460 pumps, both stuffed. Wiring completely inadequate also for the setup. -Fuel system half assed installation. Stupid Bosch 2000cc gas injectors installed, AN8 single feed to single entry rail using the factory poxy 5/16" hardline return on a crappy FPR800 fuel reg with 1/8NPT line fittings. Restrictive return ? Nah, not at all ! -Crushed chassis rails -Crushed outer sills. Really bad at front -Damaged headlights on housings, mounts etc. Headlight wiring loom butchered. Headlight sub harnesses missing. -Damaged at.... oh wait, I was going to keep it short. Anyway there's much more stuff that I'll mention later but basically the last 2 dropkick owners and the crappy Sydney workshops (some who I see regularly mentioned as being good and frequently used on SAU) who worked on this car need their arses kicked and shouldn't be own or be anywhere near RB26s or a GTR. Clearly the abortionists that worked on and modified (I mean butchered) this car had absolutely no idea. Something drastic labour and parts wise is needed ASAP. Anyway there was no use whinging about it, basically this was going to need to be a complete ground up restoration of everything now. Time to get to it and start repairing things. First things first was to build up a new long engine for this thing - the easy part really.

Hey Rob. Yeah mate that's the one. Got it from RHDjapan.

Managed to get a few more things done on it in between working on the other 32. Got some more road tuning done and realised the speed reading in the Elite was way out. Standard pulses per km was around 2450, which was giving me about an indicated speed of around 30km/h when doing about 60 -70km/h. Changed it to about 1200 pulses per km and seems to have corrected it to very close to the factory dash. I'll do another calibration next time with a GPS to get an exact pulse count to get it exact. One thing that annoys me no end is the R32 radiator recovery bottle and washer bottles always destroy themselves from years of heat. I've replaced them before but now they are a Nismo heritage item they are about $350 - $400 per washer or coolant bottle - and the bastards don't even come with caps ! After much digging the Jap company Garage active do an aftermarket replacement 32 set at about $450 for the pair. They are constructed a lot more solidly and thicker than the factory items and even comes with caps and washer motors. While I was down there I replaced a few random clips, replaced the headlight chassis rubbers and threw in a new factory battery tray. Also found a few of the old dyno sheets for blue 32 from about 10 - 11 years ago when I was running a 2.6 and the HKS turbo. All runs were on 98 except the blue trace on the Willall mainline which was on VP 109 unleaded. Yeah it made power before but was disappointingly only good for 10s. Note the Willall runs were done on the 2nd 2.6 motor with Arias 7.0 low comp pistons and the Dyno dynamics done on my 3rd 2.6 build in this car with 9.0 comp CP pistons and new balanced long nose crank. Also finished the Ross full crank trigger kit install and configuration which I'll shed some more light on at a later date.

I don't really see where the Haltech Platinum pro fits in these days with the elite series being out for about 5 years now. They are still a +/- $2k ECU new. Why would you when an Elite 2500 is $3k and a 2000 is about $2.5k ? Both are far superior units to the Platinum Pro, so l don't see why a Platinum Pro would even be a consideration these days for the cost. You get an Apexi for $500 - $1000, well it's hard to argue with it for the pure result of how they run the car isn't it ?

Absolutely agree with the above and should be fit for your purpose. The Power FC does give you a closer base to start with and less things need to be changed with the entire settings. I made over 500rwkw with one on the 32, but have since moved to the Elite 2500 and 2000 for the 2 single turbo 32 GTRs because of of things being used like wideband long term fuel trim, flex fuel, crank triggers, lots of extra engine sensors, engine protection strategies, can bus, etc. For my 33 GTR, it's 330rwkw with a Power FC on low mounts on BP 98. No intention of more power or anything extra as mentioned above, so I will be staying on the Power FC for that car unless it fails. So it's completely dependent on where you are aiming for modification wise really. If you intend to change lots of things down the track, an Elite would be worth waiting to get.

Whatever mate, your car, do what you want because the internet told you so and that it "magically fixes shifting problems" Have a good look, people that actually know what their talking about would never recommend that poor excuse for an oil. I wouldn't even call it oil as it turns into more of a paste. Absolute shit. Your fluid amounts are about correct though

Who told you Redline is good ? As I mentioned above Redline shockproof just masks problems. Put Castrol GL-4 Syntrans 75w-85 in your box. If you have any problems your gearbox needs attention. Diffs - any 75w-140 LSD oil front and rear. My choice is Castrol Syntrax 80w-140 or Motul comp gear 75w-140.

Right, so you ended up getting a GTR that runs like shit. Awesome, look forward to your endeavours. Tips and questions: Why do you appear not to have to have the original blue build plate on the firewall of your car ? Do a compression test now to get an idea of how good or bad the engine is. Don't get Redline shockproof anything to put in your diffs or gearbox. Especially gearbox -Redline is the number 1 culprit for masking synchro problems. Just put a normal gl-4 75w-85 oil in the transmission, takes almost 4 ltr. Transfer takes almost 2 ltr and Castrol Transmax Z is good stuff. The clicking is your A/C blend motor that is fcked - need a new one. 96+ onwards is dash out job. Throw stupid yellow coilpacks in bin and get stock or Splitfire DIS-001 coilpacks Replace stupid bonnet with factory one. Slap people who refer to things as "dope" Don't listen to anyone in the northern hemisphere about what is a good thing to do to an RB26 GTR. 😘 Once you have unfcked this car then you'll know what your working with to improve it. Good luck mate...

The guy has a Platinum not Elite, so I don't believe he has the spectrogram like the Elite series does.

He said he has a factory oil pump. Please go back and read your factory manual. RB26 Oil pressure at idle is 1.5bar or 21psi. His oil pressure is fine at idle.

When you say bolt in, I hope you don't intend on using that fuel pump through the factory lines or wiring. You've pretty much gone down the road of completely redoing your fuel system now.

You didn't happen to measure the overall bolt and thread lengths between a factory bolt and the ARP bolt for comparision ?

Definitely on the high side for a 16mm bolt. The facts remain though - keyway is stuffed on crank and really only one way that can happen. Didn't come with torque specs because it's not designed for an RB25. ARP do not list a crank bolt for RB20, 25 or 30 and nowhere else sells one for them either, except Spool imports. I call bullshit on this. Their "supposed" ARP crank bolt for a 25 is twice as expensive as an ARP RB26 one from anywhere else. Obviously something from another model and is similar. Similar doesn't mean correct though.

Your call, but 150Nm is fk all on a decent grade 16mm bolt. The lowest grade of 8.8 in these type of bolt for automotive in 16mm x 1.5mm is between 260 - 310Nm. If it's a 10.9 or 12.9 it's even higher. See why I say the factory manual is really strangely low ? RB25 manual in no way correlates to real world fastener specs. Interestingly enough when you look up general bolt specs an 18mm x 1.5mm , which is what an RB26 is, is recommended to be 425 - 460Nm for an 8.8 grade fastener. Factory RB26 manual states 440 - 466Nm. Coincidence ? You don't want this happening again after you fix it.

That absolutely is the case. The bolt holds balancer on, key is just for locating position. As mentioned in the RB26 balancer torque thread, to lock the flywheel I use an old clapped out starter motor, cut up and welded locked. There is actually a proper Nissan RB flywheel locking tool that bolts in the starter location, but getting one would be the trick.

Depends on what grade the OEM bolt is I guess. The RB25 uses a M16 bolt, not sure of the factory bolt grade though. With a new ARP M16 bolt would take it if you used one of those. I'm used to RB26s which are M18 and always use new a OEM bolt. Anyway I hope you can fix it.

So, did you read anything I posted ? Like how Lewis engines recommend 400Nm on RB25 and RB30 because the standard recommended torque is stupid low ? You're balancer coming loose is the thing that's caused your dramas in the first place.

It's not tight enough at all. I really don't know where this ridiculously low 150Nm torque setting comes from for an RB25 (I know it's "in the manual"). It is widely accepted that it is not adequate at under 200, when for the balancer on the RB26 torque is 440 - 466Nm. Even a 2JZ is torqued to a moderate 324Nm. To quote myself from this thread about balancers: Actually yeah you are. Here's some information to quote Darren Lewis from Lewis engines in SA who really does knows a thing or two about building an RB: RB CRANK BOLT tensioning........ Most often RB harmonic balancer bolts are not tightened correctly.We usually see crank snout damage from a loose balancer after a timing belt change where the mechanic ''thinks'' he has the bolt tight. The rb 25/30 bolt must be tightened to 400nm and the larger rb26 GTR bolt to 460 nm. The only way to tighten to this tension is by locking the flywheel in place with a suitable tool. Failure to do this , especially more so on a race RB30, will entail in balancer movement and in shortime balancer and or crank damage. ''happy times and keep it tight''............................Darren Lewis.

What about the Elite ? I know Matt from Haltech has the video trying to explain how to set it up and implement it as mentioned. But after talking to a few of the Haltech tech supports they mentioned that basically no one turns on the knock control, so why have it ? You had any success in this area ?

Is this an Elite ? If so the knock signal levels need to be setup with the onboard spectrogram to identify the correct frequency levels for knock for the individual engine. There is a YouTube video explaining about it.