BK

Ok, enough of the bullshit. Listen to the advice given mate. Please see my recent gearbox upgrade in the white 32 gtr within the build threads - have a gander. If you need shockproof or a shift additive the damage has already been done to the box and will only ever be a band-aid fix. The only way to fix it is to FIX IT. Can you guess the synchro that has had a shift additive ?

To be honest I've seen a lot online in the US doing it that way too, just never seen anyone over here do it with a GTR. The big gun workshops for speed generally use a hoist, get a forklift with long skids supporting the engine and gearbox, undo front subframe and suspension and drop entire engine / transmission / subframe down as a complete unit and lift car up. I would love to be able to do it this way ☺️

It's not a big deal if no one cares to implement it on their RB. I for one have a care factor of zero about this on an RB26 in a GTR.

By the way, that's nuts too. With the engine though, I mean brave in the way that if it lets go it crushes you car. With an engine with a bit of money gone into if it hits the deck you'll destroy thousands in seconds ! Just be bloody careful.

Which in this day and age they are not.

Look in all seriousness the HKS stuff MAY have some merit. Will it be worth doing for the almost negligible gains that it may or may not provide, especially for the cost they will ask ? Absolutely not. I feel this is more about a marketing exercise to give the perception of HKS being relevant from a development point of view.

Amen brother ! Why turn the RB26 into something it's not ? It is what it is.

Or that !

That is commitment. I can't believe you guys are pulling the motor and transmission out together like that - crazy stuff man ! Who does that ?! Not saying it's wrong, but why not pull the box out first - you have a hoist ? I know the engine cranes are technically rated for it but far out I'm not that brave ! It's nerve racking enough with a bare long engine hanging off the things, let alone another 130kg+ of transmission hanging off the back !

Next on the agenda was to strip the gearbox down for inspection and possible rebuild. Almost wasn't going to do it until we took the gearbox drain plug out and found this... That is parts of the selector teeth from main shaft gears. Upon pulling it down, it was found to be 1st and 2nd main shaft gears completely stuffed on the selector teeth. Someone has been playing race car shifts here and destroyed not only the synchro baulk rings, but also the selector teeth which are part of the main shaft gear. So whenever you hear crunching and grinding in a box, this is actually what you're destroying. See below - note the missing parts of the selector teeth. Really easy to see as when one breaks it leaves a semi circle chuck behind: Like seriously look at this shit. Would you put this crap in your transmission ? This is also what Shockproof or shift additives do to your brass synchros - it literally attacks them. Have a guess which one is a new synchro ? Ok onto the fix. In a nutshell take most of the synchro and gear related parts off the main shaft and put in bin. Assembly of main shaft with new stuff: Ok first and second gears looking good. Hang on, I don't think that's right....Did anyone notice I had swapped first and second gears around ? Whoops ! Note to self - DO NOT drink beers and take photos for SAU when rebuilding gearboxes. Check. Ok now that looks better with first and second the correct way around ! Fast forward a few more parts later and Finished ! Transmission done - beer time again. Though since we were there we better inspect the transfer case. All looked good inside so while it's down we though may as well modify it to a 10 plate upgraded setup. Done ! Now just put box and transfer together and fit it in car. Transmission complete. That's still funny 🤣

Absolutely do not do this ! That's a really good way to destroy your main shaft 5th gear selector teeth.

You obviously have something jamming up your overdrive selector coupler. Could be a main shaft selector tooth, could be a selector coupler locating clip. Box out mate....

🤣🤣 I think I almost pissed myself !

Tell that to the Sydney guys running high c/r and shoving 40psi+ on big Precision turbos down their RBs throats. E85 anti knock threshold really is that high.

No. No one will be tuning to the E85 knock limit as the knock threshold is so high on E85 power and torque gains drop off well before this point. Apart from the power gains, this is the whole crux of using E85 - the knock limit basically not being able to be practically reached.

Yahoo auctions Japan has everything. Sign up to Zen market, then you can bid and obtain things directly from Yahoo Japan yourself without going through someone else. Works well.

Absolutely, definitely one of my favorites bands to play - a completely underated band of very talented musicians. Don't know how much you'll hear from them now the guitarist Johan Reinholdz plays for big band Dark Tranquillity. I like your link to DTP. Devy is cool, one of the great Canadian exports especially in the SYL days. I'm in one of those moods so here's a much needed Australian pressure relief from Melbourne to clean out ones eardrums. One of my favorites from going to gigs in the 90s from the album Do not spit. Recorded at the Tote from memory - you'll work on your car at twice the pace !

With guys on E85 I seriously doubt this is on anyone's radar. So when you getting one Joshua ?

Not necessarily at all. End of the day though the car has indeed been complied in Australia with that VIN and can be and has been registered. Whether the car has been rebirthed or not is not something they care about.

Duncan it's hard to see but zoom in - the chassis code actually is stamped in the firewall above the silver riveted VIN plate tag, so the firewall is at least from said chassis number. As the firewall is a two piece construction, I suspect the entire front firewall section at a minimum has been replaced.

If you had a build plate it would tell you that information, as that chassis code is a series 2 also. No, it's not. It clearly says what it says. Your model code is KRCR32RKRCR32RGASLA and there are 205 cars in that spec, or at least 205 of that spec for whatever car actually is HCR32-292195, because it's not your chassis. Your Australian VIN issue not being obtainable is another story. Use vincheck, pay $9.90 and see what it says as that information is from the Australian Federal government

Missing build plate is a massive warning sign ! Does your car have any of the things listed in the specs ? HCR32-292195 is definitely supposed to be AH3 red pearl. It is also supposed to have a sunroof. Does it ?

I'm inclined to agree here

Where is your actual blue factory build plate ? Not the SEVS plate, not the import issued VIN plate - the build plate. Something stinks....

Completed long engine and assembled. All block and crankshaft machining, crack testing, balancing work performed by Rick Corbett engineering in Adelaide. Details are: RB26 05U block - machined to 86.5mm bore Stock long nose 26 crank fully balanced ACL race series main bearing ACL race series big end bearings ARP 2000 main studs Spool forged I beam conrods with ARP 2000 7/16 rod bolts - the big bastard rod bolts 💪 CP 86.5mm forged aluminium pistons and rings 9.0 CR Platinum 1.1mm block oil feed restrictor Nitto oil pump using single spring at 75psi max pressure R32 GTR 05U water pump Tomei sump baffles Tomei 1.2mm head gasket ARP 2000 head studs Supertech Viton valve stem seals Supertech single valve springs with titanium retainers New OEM RB26 valve guides, valves and lifters OEM camshaft bolts Head mild port by hand OEM harmonic balancer (at this stage) Franklin engineering AN10 head drain / breather kit Stock 05U RB26 camshafts with Tomei adjustable cam gears It was a last minute to use stock cams. Had Camtech 272deg / 9.7mm cams to go in, but opted for stock on this engine being 2.6 street car. Don't really want to compromise the low end too much. Haven't worked out the cost but that is about as budget as you can get for an effective forged bottom end RB26 I would think. Lyle blitzed it. I assembled the valve train as them collets can be a bit fiddly and bolted on the head / torqued the head studs down, but apart from that it was all him. I didn't touch the bottom end at all. Not like it's anything new for him really as he's a fully qualified mechanic and diesel fitter for over 55 years and can still show me a thing or two👍