BK

Ok I think you mean the hub damper bolts ? If so I'd be getting the exact ones listed in the Exedy parts list if they are available. As you have an integrated dampened hub spline type clutch disc, normally these aren't replaced as you'd generally replace the entire disc assembly. Look into Exedy rebuild parts or maybe try and call NPC as they use a lot of Exedy stuff in their own clutches.

Just put your cam gear cover back on.

What exactly is you're stuck on ? Use RB26 OEM bolts. As mentioned to you earlier nearly all multiplate clutch flywheels are thinner than standard, so sometimes the length needs to be shortened 3 or 4mm

Factory RB26 boost control solenoid is normally closed mate, so it's not leaking anything to atmosphere at idle. Standard setup opens when activated and vents in front of turbos - completely different to a Mac valve setup.

I can't talk either. At least that's good if your Mrs is helping - mine tells me to fk off and spend your own money ! We're ending up in very similar places with the TH1 32s with the Elite 2500, 6466, Nitto 2.8 stroker but I've went H dog and you sequential. To be totally honest if I cracked another block I'd probably do exactly the same with the Billet block myself, so I'm interested on how it works out.

Your right but Jesus Christ Brett... Sequentials, Nitto strokers and now a Billet block ! You win Powerball or something ? 😉

Yeah their trigger instructions are rubbish. I use the Ross trigger with the teeth on the balancer itself but they have absolutely no instructions at all ! As mentioned to you it absolutely wants the 2.4k resistor on a Platinum in both crank and cam home sensors, which is like turning pull up on with an Elite which does this within the ECU. 5-0 have pretty good instruction and is almost identical to the PRP design for your reference: INST-RBTRIG Installation Manual - RB Twin Cam 24 1 Crank Trigger - Rev0.pdf

Just Jap a bit cheaper than Kudos at under $250 delivered, done one a couple of weeks ago.

Holy shit, what blast from the past - the Beer Baron is alive ! Great to see you back mate !

The crap has most likely come from a combination of bad fuel and deterioration of factory fuel filter. I have seen a factory fuel filter corrode at less than 10000km after cutting them open if they've been on there awhile. Possibly also inspect your fuel rail for rust too as the factory ones can also corrode. Just take it out and clean it with bleach, it will come up new. Absolutely do not replace it if it isn't split and leaking. (I have split 3 over the years)

It's alive !

If you're not looking at a new 05U block, what are you leaning towards ?

Yes but Pin 1 is level sensor, pin 2 is low fuel light and both share pin 3 as paralleled positive. This is obvious when looking at the existing fuel sender. Pin 3 is the right wire on the connector photo. Note manual references pin 4 and 5 instead of 1 and 3 which is clearly a mistake.

I have an FPR800 for cheap if you need one.

Ok I thought I'd finally put the last nail in the coffin regarding the BM57 R33 GTR master cylinder plug. As mentioned this is quite a common plug used across heaps of cars as mentioned like the Patrols, Pulsars, Infinitis - hell I even looked at our 2001 WRX and found this: Yes, the Subaru connector is the same. The problem is if you want a new one, Subaru or Nissan cannot get you one. Now as I referenced earlier the Ford Fiesta 2014 - 2016 appeared to be the same but even better, could actually be ordered as a spare part WPT-1385 through Ford's Motorcraft arm. So after looking around I couldn't find it in Australia, so I ordered 2 of the Ford Motorcraft WPT-1385 connectors from the US. I am happy to report that it is indeed the exact the connector you need for conversion to the BCNR33 BM57 master cylinder and have since fitted to the 32. I know it might be trivial to some people as you can just disconnect it and the low level brake fluid light will never come on, as the sensor contacts are open when fluid is normal and is actually normally closed when low / dry. I'm happy now 👍

September 1989 mate http://gtr-registry.com/en-hcr32-s1-vin-table.php

What's your chassis code on firewall ? It tells all

Is that because of parts support from SVS or because the box wasn't up to it ? You had a QBE33G, the 750hp rated one from memory right ? The current QBE91G sequential is a completely different beast (released in 2017) and I am yet to hear of a failure - has much higher torque load rating and seems like they actually have it right this time. I used to deal with then a lot with the Trust / Quaife H dog box and found their parts support pretty decent. Anyway best outcome is really to sort your Albins issues out directly with them.

That sucks man. Are you dealing with Albins direct or have you gone through a supplier ? Every man and their dog is running an Albins in the offroader buggies here and can't stress how good their parts support is. Obviously I don't know their finer details, but personally I would stick with them as I personally can't make peace with dealing with overseas transmission supplier anymore and you might find yourself in a similar situation. That said, have you considered the current Quaife sequential supplied by Tim at SVS in the UK if all goes to shit ? I'm not aware of anyone using one in Oz and could be another option ?

So, you have no idea of what you're actually selling ? Also why attach a spec sheet that has nothing really to do with your engine in question ? Hey mate I'm trying to help you, so all I'm saying is people are not just going to hand over $10k+ for an engine without knowing EXACTLY, TO THE VERY LAST DETAIL, of what they are purchasing. This is what people are going to be asking you and you really need to know the answers. I'm not saying anything like it's good, bad, cheap or expensive, but just saying "I think it has this", or it's a "Racepace stage 2" isn't going to cut it with most people is it ?

What makes it built ? That usually implies upgraded forged pistons and rods at a minimum, so you need to be a bit clearer on any other internal finer details of the build.

No, it is a separate part on an R33 and R34 GTR. They have a separate bracket that the ECU sits into, unlike a 32 GTR which is actually the back plate of the ECU housing. Anyway, get a Frenchie's one if you can't find a genuine. https://www.frenchysperformancegarage.com/collections/brackets-and-ecu-mounts/products/ecu-mounting-plate-nissan-skyline-r32-r33-r34

I will once I have some. Just been trying to run in the engine, clocked up about 800km so far. Stripping some of the inside of car again right now as it's going into the panel shop tomorrow for the outer sill replacements and a respray.

It's alive ! Running, fully NT regoed and passed over the inspection pits 💪

Yep that's the ones you'd want, they are the short top adapters. There's not enough room to make a short top adapter that houses the factory upper insulator. There are long ones too that actually house the factory upper insulator, but they are for the compact short EV14 injectors when not using a bottom adapter.