BK

Yes it does exactly as I mentioned above. It is actually powered to heat up and close, not just engine temp. IACV is probably not a very correct name for it either, but it is certainly not the AAC valve which has the idle screw and solenoid on it as you would know.

Hey @Dose Pipe Sutututu just to be clear that is an IAC valve, or air regulator valve as the manual calls it, not an AAC valve. The air regulator valve gets a constant 12v on it fed from fuel pump relay and the AAC is pulsed on the ground by the ECU to control the solenoid duty. To test the air regulator valve as per the manual, without power the valve is only fully open at -20 deg. C, half open at 20 and fully closed at 60. If you 12v power them they are supposed to gradually close fully within 7 minutes. Resistance across terminals is 75ohm at 20c ambient.

🤦‍♂️I swear no one checks post dates anymore

Before you go jumping to any conclusions about faulty fuel pumps you need to know what your actual fuel pressure is at idle and onto full load. Without knowing this you are just clutching at straws. Know, not guess. Get a fuel pressure gauge on it and report back.

Glad to hear it's sorted after pinpointing the actual problem - good work 👍

Good one, glad you got it sorted. Anyway remember what I said about boost cut being 0.25bar above your setting ? I bet the boost setting you are in is too low, triggering the boost cut. Raise it to 1.0 - 1.1 and see how you go.

On a GTR you have to remove the whole slave to get front shaft out, then just cable tie out of the way. I am under my car right now, so this is an APP direct clutch line on a push slave cylinder on my dog box. You have such a hard on for the TR6060 🤗 I hate the slave in my XR6. Had to put a remote bleed line on the slave just to bleed it without the box being taken out. They are a pretty good transmission though - hard to beat on the street for shift quality (if your shifting below 5000rpm).

Glad to see you went real fuel compatible 2000cc + injectors rather than the gas ones most people use 👍 Just remember they are low impedance.

Yeah I know that, but there is a lot of people on the forum that wouldn't know what a concentric slave cylinder is.

Which a Skyline does not have, so no point.

You wouldn't normally undo your clutch line taking a box out - you unbolt the slave from the box so no rebleed required.

They didn't, it was replaced with a new one.

Remember there is still the rubber line to the slave in stock configuration, which swells on operation. Getting rid of that alone improves clutch feel, but just simpler to delete the lot. Bleeding is also much easier as it is pretty easy to trap air in the stock damper hardlines.

On what ? The Gen2 7675 or 7685 ?

I doubt your solenoid is doing anything to control boost as your settings look whack. You can't have 0.8 bar and have 50 odd duty cycle as it won't do anything, but this isn't the problem or related in any way.You need a different gauge for a start to know what the real vac/boost is as your hand controller boost reading is not correct (you're not boosting at 1.8+ bar at idle are you ?) I also said what is probably going on and faulty - If you don't understand the above you'll need to take it to someone that does, but I'll try one last time to elaborate. The Apexi boost control kit that integrates to the Power FC is literally just a 3 port solenoid to control boost pressure to your actuators and a 3bar MAP sensor to actually read the boost and give that signal to the ECU and display on your hand controller. The boost solenoid just plugs into the original 2 wires for boost control. The 3 bar MAP sensor is 3 wires (5v power, a negative and a signal) and is run back in new wiring to a new 3 pin plug on the ECU. The 3 bar MAP sensor is scaled for its output to the ECU as 0 - 5v linear signal. This means at 4.5 - 5v on the signal wire at the ECU end will indicate 1.8 - 2.0 bar of boost. The only way your hand controller could indicate this is if the signal wire has indeed above 4.5v on it at idle (which it shouldn't). 3 things would cause this: 1. MAP sensor wiring problem physically shorting the 5v to the signal wire 2. MAP sensor internally failing and shorting the 5v to it's signal output 3. ECU internal problem shorting 5v to the boost signal pin. All electrical problems. I have had a Denso / Apexi 3bar MAP sensor fail in the past, but exactly the opposite problem - MAP sensor would not output anything on its signal wire.

Hang on, in the second photo are you on peak hold after driving or just idling and it's indicating that ? It looks like you are not in peak hold display and just idling, so if that's the case your getting and incorrect MAP sensor reading to the ECU. The Apexi MAP sensor is a 0 - 5v 3bar Denso unit, so it supports 2 bar positive boost. Sounds like the MAP sensor could be stuffed or a wiring problem. Somehow the signal wire at your ECU end could have 5v on it from a wiring short or again an internally stuffed MAP sensor, as your reading is very close to having a maxed MAP sensor signal.

Your check engine light is your exhaust temp light. You are hitting your fuel cut from over boosting. Quite severely by the sounds of it, as the Power FC fuel cut for boost is preset at 0.25bar above whatever boost you have it set to. Sounds like no boost to actuators. Have you got a separate boost gauge to verify ?

If you want 17 inch ply slicks the Hoosiers are probably your only choice. Most running slicks go down to 15 or 16 inch wheel to get more sidewall - 17 inch drag slick seems a bit pointless for the sidewall profile. I think you may have to just try them to find out for everyone ? Anything can be "made" to fit if you're dead set on using them.

Car would have to be pretty high ride height. Never seen anyone run them, but I think you might be pushing it. On a stock R33 GTR body the normal fitment for drag radials or slicks is 26 X 11.5 on a stock R33'GTR R17, which is 275/40R17 in the real world normal tyre speak. You would be better off with these as they are wider, and readily available from MT.

Rip it all out and use direct braided clutch line from master to slave. I usually use the Japanese APP ones but just recently fitted one from HEL to the white 32 as they were cheaper and easier to get.

Slim to none I would think. I really wouldn't get too hung up on it as overall condition of car is way more important.

2nd boost restrictor ? News to me.

So you're buying this as an investment ? If there is no concrete evidence how would you ever prove original motor authenticity to a potential buyer ? Anyway for your information I can give you some numbers on our GTRs for further info: 10/1989 BNR32-002605, definitely original block was : RB26003940A. Since replaced with new block RB26D090076P. 09/1990 BNR32-011875 : 99% sure original block RB26014217A. 02/1995 BCNR33-002155 : I'll bet my left nut original block as I bought this car completely standard and immaculte with 62000km on it over 18 years ago : RB26050092A. Our latest edition 11/1989 BNR32-003217 with block RB26062552A. This car has been changed from KH2 to 326 and is the only one I'll guarantee has had another engine fitted before I got it. I have to say suprisingly it does correspond so far with your above findings.

So that's a no for PWM then ? You are staging pumps for now

@hattori hanzo Hey Daimian, didn't you swap to a bigger exhaust housing on your 6466 ? Like bigger than 1.00 a/r and made 600kw+ ?