BK

Maybe. I dunno mate but I thought I'd shed some more light on this for any future references, and try to cut through the bullshit. I will be even more clear this time.... 1st / 2nd gear shift insert: In all the RB 5 speed gearboxes there is a solid type shifter insert on the 1st / 2nd synchro hub arrangement. There is 3 of them and they are a solid key design, which acts against 2 circular springs - one each side of these solid keys. This is the design on the 1st / 2nd synchro arrangement and never changed on any 5 speed Skyline R32 - R34 from 1989 - 2001 or R32 / R33 GTR box from 1989 - 1998. It looks like this and is the original part number 32609-30P00. 32609-23P00 is the new R33 alternative part number but still same thing. Both very much still available. Original 3rd / 4th shift insert (most common): Now the 3rd / 4th gear synchro hub arrangement used a different setup that did not use 3 solid shift inserts acting on opposing springs as mentioned above on the 1st / 2nd arrangement. Instead it used 3 spring steel inserts. As they are spring steel they provide the spring tension, and is a bit of a shit design as they are prone to losing their "springiness", fatiguing and breaking. Why Nissan decided on this design compared to the 1st / 2nd gear arrangement is beyond me, but it is the most common 3rd / 4th synchro setup and is all the 32 / 33 GTR / GTS boxes until 1997 when the series 3, 5 speed GTR revision took place. Again, it looks like this and is also still available - part number 32609-70L20. Revised 3rd / 4th shift insert: Now obviously Nissan finally decided that the above 3rd / 4th gear shift insert design was infact very shit and changed it. It was revised to be like the design of the 1st / 2nd gear arrangement, in that it went away from the spring steel clip type insert and went to 3 solid key insert with 2 opposing springs - the way it should've been in the first place. This is what is found in the R34 GTT and 97/98 R33 GTR 5 speed transmissions. The bad thing from an upgrade point of view is that everything relating to 3rd and 4th gear was also changed like the selector fork and synchro hub coupling, etc. Part number 32609-70L15, superseded by 32609-AA510 and both very much still available. Looks the same to the original 1st / 2nd insert doesn't it ? - it's not. Now if only you've got a keen eye you'll see the raised hump section is different. On the 1st / 2nd one it is substantially shorter in the middle than the much larger / longer revised 3rd / 4th insert. The overhead shots show the clear difference in the raised edge. Again, compare: 1st / 2nd insert Revised 3rd / 4th insert Now look at the opening dyl33 pics which has the much shorter raised centre section: Hence why I said originally from the 1st / 2nd assembly, as most Skyline boxes out there will still be running the spring clip 3rd / 4th inserts unless you a have an R34 GTT, 97/98 series 3 R33 GTR, a recently brand new complete 5 speed transmission or done a gearset upgrade as they all use the new 3rd / 4th synchro design. Hopefully this clarifies the differences with some pics showing a clear way to easily identify internally the early and late transmissions when disassembled.

Being in the middle of Australia, Sydney is 2800km away and Adelaide is still 1500km. I'm taking down the two 32 GTR's to get tuned so even Adelaide is a major exercise and cost to tune 2 cars, when I'll be towing this one on a car trailer and getting the other one driven down. Really it was Con at CRD going to tune it since he built the short motor because I didn't have time to do this one myself. I went to Sydney last year and seen them about it so I'm a bit bummed about that, but the way things are I'm not going anywhere near the east coast when borders get shut at a moment's notice. Even still the SA / NT border is closed at the moment so I'm really counting on that changing in the next week or so. If I have to go to Adelaide, Simon at Morpowa will be the only one touching these cars. He wanted me to hold off coming down until he had his Prohub dyno to do them which by the looks of it should be any day now.

Getting closer, but I did take it for about a 100km drive yesterday. The thing's a freakin' animal to drive with just my road tune. Still waiting for..... ...and the bloody SA / NT border to reopen.

yeah most pictures are still low res

Twin entry rail with dual supply -6 would be the reason. Nothing wrong with doing it all in 200 series PTFE, which is the way most people do it. Also Speedflow red filter is 40 micron.

No painter for a month apparently. Ours was having additional chassis work done though like the outer sill unstitch and replacement which is pretty major around the rear guard area. Still, Not 3 months + major though. Expecting it back Friday as we just come out of our first lockdown.

Hope they're faster than our guys, our white 32 has been at the body shop Alice Crash for 14 weeks now.

Nice. How far you going ? Is the glass coming out ?

Yes it's just the Speedo change on this one, opposed to the R33 GTR Nismo actual dash which has every single minor gauge changed with different increments with also 320 Speedo, 11k rpm tacho.

Yep. Just buy the Kudos kit mate.

Does not fit with 350z fork

OEM 350z boot

$180AU overpriced ? Not really. You need the custom length pivot. You know you're looking at US dollar pricing right ?

Looks like the Kudos kit is the CPZ kit apparently... http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/heavy-duty-clutch-release-fork-suit-nissan-300zx-skyline-081989-021993-gts25-p-2123.html The fork and pivot basically is the kit. The boot is different than GTR push or pull boots, being the 350Z one.

I'm assuming you are keeping the 32 push. I'm running the 350z fork in my blue 32 which is the Kudos motorsport kit, so I'm not sure if it's the identical kit to the one pictured. The ball pivot in my kit is definitely shorter than the stock or Nismo ones and appears to be a custom length. Why do you want to get a different ball pivot - use the one that comes with the kit. The one from Kudos said they are a chromoly ball pivot, so it's likely to be stronger than the stock or Nismo one anyway. I'd just get the Kudos kit and use that.

Cool. As you know that's what I have and feels good on the street, responsive as with the 2.8. My results don't mean shit to a certain amount I guess though as I haven't been dynoed yet so can't quote numbers as all my tuning has been road tuning so far. I would say the 2.8 will support the larger 1.15 or 1.32 with ease if you haven't bought it yet, so go 1.15 maybe ? Seat of the pants dyno still says for response and transient doesn't match my 33 with HKS GT-SS turbos at 20psi on a 2.6 though, although my 33 is a very well sorted and balanced car. Seems close, but obviously the top end is night and day better. Compared to our other 32 with the T78-29D on a 2.6, transient and spool response feels far far superior with the Precision. Can't wait until kill mode on E85.

Nice. 1.00, 1.15 or 1.32 ?

So you're going the 6870 then ?

Still easier at pump terminal end using 3 diodes. Why one earth ? You realise your one earth has to be very large then to carry the current of 3 pumps if you go that way. Also you will absolutely need a bigger alternator,. The factory 90A is not going to cut it, as your system voltage will be shit. If you are intending on running 3 x Walbro 460 or 525 your current draw at full noise under boost is more like 60 - 70A. The single 525 at 43psi, 100% duty is pulling around 18 - 18.2A on 13.7v as per spec, rising to around 22 -23A on boost when I clamped it. That's just one Walbro, and is the reason I don't use Walbros on my triple pump setup on the other 32.

If you have an R32 GTR a really good spot we found was underneath the HICAS unit shown, picking up the existing 3 mounting bolts. This is the relay / heat sink setup from the our white 32 driving a Walbro 525. Note diode across pump terminals.

Sorry but that's just utter bullshit mate. Your reasoning on trying to defend poor quality control from Borg Warner is just ridiculous. How the hell has a supplier / distributor got anything to do with product quality ? As Geoff said it's not like they're building the bloody things ! Why should you have to inspect a turbo before purchase ? Would you say the same about buying a block, stroker kits, gearboxes and the like that cost more than a turbo - that you should fly somewhere and "inspect" it before purchase ? Does your reasoning now sound silly when put like that ? Buying an EFR shouldn't be a lottery - they are a big company and that should mean strict QA control measures. True that Duncan. I do feel sorry for you guys in the east coast in that regard. Just come back from Darwin V8 supercars on the weekend with 50,000+ there and it's like what pandemic - is there a pandemic ? Covid what ?

You're kidding right ? Australia bigger than just Sydney mate...

All solid state relays require a flyback voltage diode when switching inductive loads like a fuel pump. This is just trivial anyway as you usually place the diode at across your pump terminals, not at the relay. Its good practice anyway to use diodes on coil type relays as well, not just solid state ones. Kudom SSR data SY4086-dataSheetMain.pdf Haltech SSR data HT-030202_IS.pdf

Single contacts. I believe Dose pipe is PWM controlling 2 pumps through the one 100A SSR. I've also tested it with 3 x pumps. Also the Jaycar 30v / 100A SSR is the exact one Haltech is selling, Kudom (not Crydom as first thought) is the supplier. Crydom however is the best in the business for SSR and have just released their 4th gen versions. The D1D100 is their new 30v / 100A for improved reliability. They are expensive but the best.

Guys regarding diodes, you should be using something that is going to be rated massively higher than 40v for the flyback voltage. Rule of thumb is roughly 10 times higher than supply voltage, so at least 100v diode or above. Flyback current is minimal but voltage high, so 1A is usually sufficient. So bare minimum should be a 1N4001 which is 100v / 1A or a 1N4004 at 400v / 1A. For a bit more headroom on the current I've found the 1N5404 to be big overkill at 400v / 3A which is what I'm running now.