BK

Absolutely. Pinching hoses doesn't really rule it out. With the vacuum booster hoses they are quite firm, so you might think you've blocked it but really you haven't. Spray method really is gold. We found a high idle as described above with it recently that progressively got worse until idle was 2000rpm - aac screw right in, no pressure test observable leak etc. Turrned out to be a 32 faulty clutch booster, which is nice since they are a $500+ item now 😒 Use the spray, you'll find it👍

Thought so. Reason I ask is if it was OK before, clearly there is a globe issue now. Your left brake light is coming on with the tail lights. They are a dual filament globe, so it's probably either correct globe not seated correctly or an incorrect single filament globe someone has put in there that shouldn't. Or the worst case it's a wiring issue, but how would we know as you haven't even checked if the correct globes are in there for a start - go have a look and then report back.

Before you posted this, have you even attempted to pull your rear globes out to see what's going on ?

Can't get around password lock on an Elite, but it only protects the current map. You can still load in a different base or saved map or reinitialise it and start again though. Pretty sure it's the same for a Platinum too.

Has to have done a bearing to have dropped to 15psi oil pressure hot at idle with a Nitto pump doesn't it ?

Thought I'd add to this thread-

It's coming up fast...

Engine will definitely be coming straight out and disassembled for a post mortem. We've been discussing this and I think the main bearing oil clearances might have been set a bit tight by the old man. He showed me that he'd set it at around 0.025mm, which I believe is on the tight side. I expect the bad fuel contamination has gotten into the oil and probably starved a main. I'm prepared for the crank to be stuffed, just hopefully not the rods. Pistons and rings should be ok. Funnily enough, Simon started it cold briefly the next day just to move it and it had 125psi oil pressure at idle.

I wish ! Nope, keeping track of the 3 GTR's is almost a full time job in itself. -This car is ready for competition in 3 weeks, so minor prep required. -The 33 GTR needs to be checked over and prepared for competition in 3 weeks also. -The other white 32 engine has to come out and rebuilt after failing on the dyno, so Mission Impossible 2 intro theme is only just beginning...

I think the last time I talked to Haysam at PAR when getting my 5 speed dog it was about $9 - $10k starting price. Obviously hasn't sold one in a while hence no price update, and would definitely only be made to order. Pfitzner used to do a geaset for the Getrag but has been discontinued ages ago.

PAR do a 6 speed H pattern dog gearset for the R34 Getrag in helical or straight cut. https://www.par-engineering.com/product/fs6r93ads-set-nissan-fs6r93a-dog-engagement-gearset/

I hope so, but I will expect no less than damaged crank and main bearings. Just about to go back down there, take front lip off and organise the white 32 to be taken back to the NT via car carrier. Before I do that I'm going to take the blue 32 for a quick spin, put that on the trailer and drive it back tomorrow. White 32 - mission aborted 👎

Yeah, what a polarising couple of days. We were doing all the 98 baseline tuning and then had troubles going to 8000rpm redline. We'd get up to about 10psi boost and fuel pressure was going from 50psi and then falling off a cliff repeatedly with stable manifold pressure. Thought it was shitty pump relays, bypassed them. Thought it was SSR / PWM problems - also bypassed it, so this time it's literally direct to battery feed for pump power. With all pump control ruled out it appeared to be faulty fuel pump, as pump terminals were at 13v during pressure fall off during dyno runs. Fuel pump was a Walbro 525lph F0000285, done 2500km. It was mostly highway driving with 1500km of that done to get to Adelaide no problems, so we could only conclude that the pump must be faulty. Cue Simon getting straight onto a local supplier to get a new one delivered so we could change it ASAP. I had the pump out and swapped it in myself while still on the hub dyno fairly quickly - at a cost of cracking my head open in the process quite severely on the stupid boot catch with blood pissing out of my head everywhere. Should have probably gone to get stitches but fk it, we really needed to push on. Get back into it with the new pump and shit started doing the same thing ?! Perplexed at the pressure problems we started clutching at straws, so we pulled the pre rail 40 micron Speedflow 602 AN8 fuel filter to inspect. To our surprise it was almost completely blocked - couldn't even blow through it. We pulled it apart and it was really bad, like a fine silt. We had the tank completely drained, empty, dry and clean on Saturday, so we knew it's not from a dirty tank. Filter was 2500km new and checked after 1000km engine run in, so only explanation is we've picked up bad fuel at one of the fuel stops to Adelaide on the drive down. All fuel on drive down was 98, but with outback fuel stops like Erldunda, Marla, Coober Pedy, Glendambo and Port Augusta I bet one of them has had some bad fuel contamination. After replacing the fuel filter element we got into it again and full fuel pressure appeared to be restored, so we could finally start loading it up. Did a full run up to 8000rpm to check gate base pressure which was 15psi so it all looked good to go. During about the 4th power run still on 15psi boost we noticed the oil pressure at about 4000 - 5000rpm suddenly dropped sharply about 20psi, so the run was aborted. Returning to idle at 1000rpm the oil pressure had gone to about 15psi. Oil pressure at idle was around 35psi before that, so the decision was made to not progress any further.

We lost the engine....

Nah it's on there, zoom in

Good find Paul, that's about what I was thinking the improvement would be for spool.

Just come back from getting more E85, so I'm predicting maybe 500hp on 98 and 600hp on E85 ? Dunno, but if the Trust T78 sucks a Precision 6266 might have to replace it.

Running it in the Red centre nats drags and motorkhana in 4 weeks, so yeah I'll have to try and get some footage. Nah 6:30 up and out. White 32 is on the dyno as we speak.

HKS turbo - SOLD, SOLD, SOLD! Modified transfer still for sale - last one...

E85, 32psi, 8000rpm limit. Crazy bastard wanted to go more boost as it still wants to keep making power : .....Mission accomplished 🤟

So after the big 1500km drive to Adelaide, the white 32 didn't miss a beat, has 2500km on the rebuilt RB26. Patiently awaits it's turn on the Prohub...

Just pulled it up at 456kw at rears with 22psi at around 8200rpm on 98. We could make in excess of 500 on 98 with more boost and rpm but we thought why ?, Kill mode will be on E85. Time to start flex tuning it.

Obviously I made it to Adelaide with both 32 GTRs. I am the 3rd car and 1st manual car to be on the new Prohub 3000 dyno. Quick set-up - ...and base run on 98 is 435kw on 22psi gate pressure. So far, so good.

I'm ready...

Really ?! I take it you've got no idea about the GTR transmission and are not doing this job yourself, as you would not ask this. You can't bolt in a new transmission without the transfer case attached (believe me I've tried that), so why would this even be a question ? No, it will piss oil everywhere out the back of the box with no transfer case attached. Get a $10 1 litre hand oil pump and fill the box in the car like any other transmission or diff oil change. If you must, you can fill both the transfer and box if bolted together on the ground if you have your ATTESA actuator installed or a blanking plate in the back of transfer case. Transfer has to be bolted to box to seal box leaking oil - rear of transfer has to be sealed at actuator to stop transfer leaking oil.