BK

Not entirely that simple. The 33 and 34 GTR is essentially rwd like the 32 until it is told to actuate the transfer. There's only a 1 - 2% of torque transfer under normal conditions if that, as this second failsafe solenoid allows about 30psi to the transfer actuator just to preload it. Under a 50:50 torque split the pressure applied is upwards of 230psi. The whole idea is that having this slight preload allows the torque transfer to be initiated much faster than having no preload like the 32.

Yep your right Duncan, even Nissan fast confirms it. I think the confusion for me was caused when you look up various battery suppliers is that they list it as the guard side. Had the positive on my 32R on the plenum side for years as the guard side just seems silly, but did notice on the old man's 32R that his postive is definitely on the guard side. He is also 75 so maybe he was just being a bit senile and installed a backwards battery by mistake, like Ben with #62 has done.

The 32 and 33 gearboxes, fronts diff and transfer cases are all the same. The change is within the electronics and hydraulics. I've explained this all before so I'll be brief. Essentially the 32 has one transfer case solenoid which can be electrically disabled and the 33 has two solenoids, which one provides a constant small pressure preload on the transfer case. On a 33 you have to depressurise this second "failsafe" solenoid to have no transfer case preload. If you searched in the driveline forum section you would've found this on how to do it:

Factory is definitely positive next to guard like yours, but that is generally a bit silly so people change it to stop dumbasses shorting the positive on guard. Most cars are near plenum, terminals to firewall side as it just makes more sense.

Nice car Ben. Stock is positive is supposed to be near the guard, not near plenum. That said I did change my 32R to be like in the picture, and most looms should reach. It just seems more practical with positive configured like that doesn't it.

Marko R1 I was replying directly to the previous post by John Murray - he claimed it is one of 9 silver cars with an ADM compliance plate. Actually GTR registry claims 25 ADM KG1 Jet silver metallic so I don't know where he got 1 of 9 from. End of the day, it is still just an R32 GTR in KG1 PRODUCED from Nissan and there are 1620 in that colour. That is my point that I'm making - there is this ADM elitist attitude going on that somehow they are like a completely different built car and are a better car than they really are. A v spec 32 for example is mechanically a better car. As for the gun metal grey ADM, who really gives a shit that it is the only ADM one in that colour. It is still the most common R32 GTR colour KH2 is it not ? Certainly doesn't deserve to command a massive price like that, and I will piss myself if it actually does go for it's asking price. Look I like all the GTR models, and find the ADM ones intriguing, but anyone with any common sense sees right through this ADM perceived value. ADM 32 GTR is a cool thing, but there are a lot of other GTR models I would buy before an ADM one. And have. I passed on an ADM 32 in 2004 for my 33, don't regret it for a second.

it's one of the 9 silver ones with a Nissan Australia compliance plate - big difference than produced. And I quote myself... You guys and your ADMs are just proving my point really

Even that is insane, but seems to be the ADM price realm at the moment. It's a fair wack below the $235000 one mentioned, which is just comical. Step back a moment, these are still just a standard R32 GTR no matter which way people try to spin it. Don't get me wrong, I can see the appeal of owning an Aussie delivered one for sure (my main like is the factory transfer case cooler, then the factory 260km Speedo and roof aerial), but the perceived value of these ADM cars is turning into pure propaganda. Only owners of ADM cars already would say otherwise....but hey the market decides what things are worth.

I know right ? Like they are trying to educate and entice someone who knows nothing about the history of these cars into an extravagant appreciating investment purchase. The only people buying ADM 32s at these astronomical and quite frankly ridiculous prices, are buying into the nostalgia of the group A racing history - which they clearly already know about.

Starting at $235k ?! Someone needs to back away from the crack pipe.... Sure it is the only KH2 ADM car, but seriously ? Keep us updated on if anyone finds out what it eventually sells for.

Hi there ! By factory positive location you mean the drivers side rear outside looking from the front of the car, then yes. It is actually termed a left hand positive, as in if the battery is in front of you and terminals are closest to you, positive is on the right.(I know that sounds backwards). I guess if you wanted the factory look you would want a battery that is completely black. Battery discussed here below recently: Post photos of car mate ! Everyone always likes looking ADM 32s.

Hey if this is in your 32 , next time you need a battery the Supercharge Goldplus equivalent is the MF80D26. Same dimensions but 80AH and 720cca ?

The NS70MF is 75AH too, nice. Wouldn't fit into my 32 though damnit !

Yeah that's it, the whole gearset assembly is basically assembled on the centre plate, so now is the time to fit one. I have an OS giken gearset in my 33 and am always a bit annoyed I didn't do a billet centre plate on that box ?‍♂️

Regarding the uprated 28.5mm GM 26t input shaft, it's amazing how much bigger it is than the standard 24t Nissan 25.4mm one. These are the pictures from the front of mine comparing them. The spline dimensions listed don't tell the whole story, look how small the Nissan shaft is before the spline !

Needing a centre plate is not a myth. Highly recommended, keeps the main shaft and counter shafts from slight misalignments under torque loading because they flex less. Helical gears make this problem worse with the thrust loads they create so it isn't as big of a problem with straight cut gears, but can still be an issue. If you look earlier in this thread you see my gearset pics, I went with the OS giken billet centre plate as it was about $300 cheaper than the Pfitzner one. Make no mistake, the factory one is a soft, light piece of cast crap in comparison to a billet one that weighs about 4kg. Regarding 5th, the normal straight cut dog set retains your factory 5th. Getting a dog and straight cut 5th is an additional cost option. The fact that it is straight cut dog box 1st - 4th with a synchro + helical 5th is a big part of the reason I went this way. If I wanted all straight cut and dog gears I probably would've went the Pfitzner set.

What the actual FK ?!

Cool. Did you opt for the billet selector interlock barrel ? Dog 5th or synchro ? 26t GM or 24t Nissan input shaft ?

Whatcha gettin ?

(02) 90537522 was the last time I spoke to Haysam there about a year ago. My PAR ordering did go through Neat Gearboxes though, I didn't order direct. Email them.

You really don't get what I'm saying do you ? 38ah is the smallest, most piss weak size battery for any car, regardless if it is a $100 or $1000 battery. As I said above 50 minimum is generally the go for any car now, and paying that much for such a small battery just seems silly. Anyway sounds like you went and got one so hope it lasts ok. When people have been going through the trouble of going to an Optima yellow top they go for the big ones and make them fit for a massive increase in CCA and AH, or to mount them laying down as they are AGM.

There is absolutely no question they are good, all the serious 4WD and off roader guys run them here. I just couldn't justify $300+ for 38ah and 450cca. Post back in 5 years and see if it's still going strong ?

Cool, you realise that it is the right positive terminal instead of the left, which is standard in a GTR ? It does have the correct small terminals though. CCA is also 450 on a 38ah battery. Does not sound like good value unless it does last you at least 5 - 6 years, as that is the price of 2 x MF55B24 with 490cca and 50ah. I am yet to justify the price of Optima. Happened to have this in the ute for reference:

@GTSBoyIs that true - as in outright replacement, or is it just the pro-rata Complete replacement, as in within 40 months of purchase if it fails, full new battery on Gold Plus series. My old man even did one literally at about 39 months from purchase recently on the XR6. I can say I have done it about 3 times across all of my car's ever. The dealer stamps it on purchase, and they are very adamant about retaining and supplying your original receipt upon replacement, but apart from that, yeah no problemo. Sometimes they'll want it overnight to prove it, but if it is stuffed its stuffed and they'll see that.

Here's what I use on the 32 and 33 gtr. Supercharge MF40B20L Goldplus series is a good choice if you want to keep the standard size. I have to use a 40 in the 32 as I have too much shit around that area to run anything bigger. In my 33 it's a 55. The MF40B20L is 390cca and compact, this is the standard physical size for 32 and 33 GTR. The Century MF40 version by comparison is 330cca. MF55B24L is a better choice as they are 490cca, but they are wider. These seem to be my picks as they best available under $200. After that you go all out with the Optima AGM Yellow tops. By far the best, but approaching $400. They are available at 700cca plus and people have reports of batteries lasting 7 years or more. I don't see the point as Supercharge Gold plus is 40 months no questions asked replacement warranty. The MF40 is the standard factory size and MF55 is actually the Nissan cold weather pack upgrade size, hence why you can fit both. Same depth and height, just a 55 is wider as mentioned above. So if you can run at least a 55. More importantly than any battery though is get a Ctek, especially if it is not a daily driven car, which is most GTRs. Need a good maintain charger.