BK

This really is about why you NEED a Ross Gold or Race damper ? Again the Ross Tuffbond is adequate for 90% + of setups.

So to elaborate you can't assemble the clutchpack drum outside of the transfer case, that's your problem. It's needs to be fully assembled including on the actuation side before you install any plates as stated above.

Dont do anything that your talking about regarding spacing - you've just f**ked up

I question any of the Nismo rubber being different than the OEM counterpart except the inflated price.

Hence Barra power with Hayman Reece 2700kg towbar. Forget a Stagea or the Outback.

It just fits like shit ?

I agree with electric aircon being a no go from a high electrical load perspective, so with the Race or Gold dampers that brings you back to: -Having to relocate the ac 25mm to keep it mechanical then go electric ps pump to be able to use your factory viscous fan -The undesired approach to relocate ac and ps 25mm, ditch viscous fan and switch to thermos or -Ditch the ac all together, run factory fan and not relocate ps. I couldn't be f**ked doing any of those options when the Ross Tuffbond is factory alignment and will be fine unless you're looking at 700kw + or stupid 10k rpm stuff.

Or just use the Tuffbond balancer and avoid all of this.

To retain ps in factory alignment I'd say so for electric ac. Obviously to keep ac belt driven you'd need electric ps and still need to relocate the ac 25mm.

I'm pretty sure I've told you this all before in another thread. The deal is with the Ross race or gold series damper they are designed not to use ac and only has 2 pulleys standard, so where the ac belt would normally sit on the balancer that is a solid dampened area and then the power steering belt runs on the 2nd outer pulley in the factory alignment. Remember the ps is the very outside belt not the ac normally. If you want to run ac they remove the outer damper ps pulley and put an ac pulley in that alignment then bolt the ps pulley on the outside of that pulley. This has the effect of moving both the ps and ac pulleys forward 25mm on the balancer, meaning you need the ac and ps relocation brackets to move the ps pump and ac compressor forward 25mm to realign with the balancer. Relocation of the ps and ac forward 25mm means you cannot use the factory radiator fan anymore as it will hit - I measured my r32 and R33 GTRs for Ross to confirm that you can't run the ac relocation with a factory fan without hitting the ps. The 32 was somewhere around 16mm and the 33 was less at only 12mm. I believe the 34 is pretty much the same as the 33, but anyway none of the GTRs have 25mm + down there so it doesn't work unless you go thermo fans when relocating both ps and ac. Hence why I ditched the whole ac relocate idea and went back to their current integrated trigger 800hp Tuffbond balancer as everything lines up like factory. Take their power ratings with a grain of salt - they are conservative on their power ratings and admitted themselves you can't actually rate a balancer in power. I'd suggest just get a Tuffbond unless you want to ditch the ac.

Almost yeah. The problem is the boost source that goes to the actuators is tee'd before the solenoid on the hard line and as I said the other side of the solenoid vents to airfliter, so if you just join the existing lines it's like a having a massive boost bleed on the actuator line. So much so that it'll bleed off that much to atmosphere the gates will never open because of such a weak boost signal at actuators. Yes the lines need to be capped 👍

It is

Remember stock boost solenoid is a normally closed setup and then bleeds directly to atmosphere / air filter, so if you join both stock solenoid lines together it creates one hell of a vacuum leak.

Nexus 3.7.1 I think we have a winner

Why are you not just using your standard plenum pre throttle reference ? That is what is actually entering your engine.

Yeah well mines been the other way around with off values at 70+, no dramas cold.The strangest shit is happening here right now on the NSP, the Nexus 3.7.1 firmware has changed everything. I'm finding me going back to nearly the same starting point values on cranking, pulse prime and base fuel map when on the older software. Msybe it has been a firmware problem all along which was screwing with my hot cranking values

Been letting the ltft sort out the low load low rpm stuff and applying as necessary. Base fuel map though should have nothing to do with fuel at cranking as that's what the prime pulse and cranking tables are supposed to be for. They are not correction tables - they are the cranking fuel references. Are you finding the base table affecting cranking fuel ?

Cheers dude. Yeah that looks a little closer to my blue 32 sort of coolant temp vs fuel decrease, but on this car with the cranking and prime pulse I'm having to drop this shit down into the 30 - 40% region after 70c to not flood the engine. At 80% even it seems to start to stall the engine cranking speed. It seems like a fairly dramitic reduction to me to have to do. Haven't really needed to touch post start as once the engine fires all is well.

On the Nexus 3 firmware and NSP software now. Can you post your fuel prime pulse and fuel cranking tables for me ? I think this thing has been massively over fuelling on crank at over 70c as I've had to dramatically reduce both of the tables, more so than I would expect to be normal. In the wiring department the ground has been changed back to the cas pin 4 wire and signal ground B14 pin. The signal + was changed to cas pin 2 wire and terminated at B1 Trigger + too just to rule out the signal + wire fault. I'm really starting to think I haven't been chasing an electrical signal fault at all and the overfuelling at 70c + has been stalling the engine creating inconsistent cranking in turn upsetting the low cranking voltage signal.

Yeah I completely agree with everything, but I will reinforce reluctors definitely require very small sensor to tooth height gaps ideally well under 0.5mm. Ross do also have the 36-2 missing tooth count versions which work with hall effect for more resolution over the 12t, but yeah if you want to run something like a 60 tooth a reluctor seems to be the only option there as you mentioned. For the single tooth cam home signal though a reluctor really offers no advantages over a hall effect. On another note I think I made progress last night with the cam trigger setup though. I will elaborate later, but it seems to be more related overfuelling on cranking at over 70c.

You can do that. The GaugeArt Haltech canbus gauge you can setup warnings in any parameter which do change the screen colour from black to white and activate an additional red led if programmed. In 4 parameters per page resolution the display is no smaller than the Power FC at 8 parameter monitor setup.

I don't know how much you read here, but the issue in question is with the NZ wiring 24-1 cam trigger car using a single reluctor, not the car using the Ross crank trigger kit - that car is working flawlessly with the non bolt on integrated 12 tooth trigger on crank and +1 cam home with GT101 sensors. As you mentioned It seems that yes if you want more than the 36 tooth crank signal is when you switch to a reluctor as they handle the small tooth width and tooth gap better, but honestly the resolution the Ross 12 tooth does has proven to be way good enough for me. Having more timing resolution is obviously not a bad thing but the need to run 60 crank teeth is pretty extreme, and nowhere near required in most under 10k rpm or massive hp situations. Yes the Haltech Elites have an oscilloscope if you're running the Nexus software, which I just done on this car so I have yet to capture any waveform data. Will report back in the morning on the reluctor cam setup as I've had enough for tonight.

Absolutely spot on, crank is the way to go but personally I'd always prefer to have the crank trigger teeth on the balancer instead of timing gear, hence why I went with Ross. Personally I don't use any PRP gear at all. After what I experienced first hand with the whole crushing of lower timing gears and sheilds none of my RBs will ever have anything but the Ross redesigned lower timing gear and sheild assemblies that interlock. Nitto are the only ones with a similar solution (not as good imo) to Ross but neither make a timing gear in this design with trigger teeth on gear.

I'm talking about crank trigger with ATI balancer with the teeth on the balancer itself, which is what Dose was referring to.

There are solutions to use the ATI balancer with trigger teeth with the Ross setup.