maccattack

In appreciation for their services I thought I would plug a parts supplier in Japan that (until recently) I hadn't come across before http://www.neweraparts.com/ Some may have seen posts from me in recent times trying to find a crankshaft for my GTR. As it turns out, Nissan has run out of parts. They are currently in negotiations with their supplier for more cranks to be made. At this stage, noone really knows when that may be. Some people I had come across have been waiting for over 4 months. I have been waiting myself without a car now for 6 weeks. I found these guys via a GTR forum in the UK. Their rep in Japan (Miguel is his name) has been awesome. Fantastic help - very fast turnarounds and even more importantly THEY HAVE A CRANK!!!!!!! Keep them in mind for the furure. Cheers Peter

Port and polish the head - full flow tested. Had mine done late last year. Combined with Tomei cams my waste gate is bouncing open on idle. Brings on boost way earlier.

If you go the GTR option you are going to at some stage have to factor in the cost of a modded sump. I ran around for ages with an Accusump which I was using as a band-aid measure until I needed to take out the engine. After a couple of unfortunate blow-ups I now have resorted to a full race sump. GTR's are great on the track but as you said, they become a money pit if you continue to drive them hard on track. The harder you want to drive it, the deeper your pockets have to become.

Supercheap and many of those stores sell vinyl spray colourant. Used for plastic trims and the like. It can also be used on carpets and I think rubber. It is not a paint but a dye which actually gets into the surface. I've used it on interior and exterior trims and found that it does not come off. It also does not dry with a crust at all because it is just a dye. Worth looking into - awesome for dying plastics.

Wet weather is no probs for semi's. It's the rubber compound, not the grooves that keep you stuck to the road. I've run semi's in the wet before with great traction. But you're right - cost per km is the killer.

I've PM'd DaiOni (Brian) in Kobe to see if he can phone around in Japan. If any of the other guys in Japan could check - I'm more than willing to Express Air Freight the part. I just need to find one first. Thanks in advance.

They can't get them at the moment either. I'm hoping an engine builder or workshop may have a spare.

Can anyone with FAST software check? As far as I know, the part number is 1220005U03

Sorry to post here but am getting desperate at this point. Does anyone know where I might be able to find a NEW genuine R33GTR crankshaft. Nissan (Aust., NZ, and Japan) currently don't have any left and are "in negotiation with their supplier". If anyone has a spare, would you please let me know. Thanks Peter

I've bought D02G's from Qld Raceway before - no problems at all. Previously ran the Bridgestone RE55's which I think (in my opinion only) may be a slightly superior. Bridgestones you can buy from Tyretech. If you wanted a tyre specifically for hillclimbs, I would look at the Toyo Proxes (R compound) available at plenty of places (bought mine at Keith 4 wheels) Extraordinarily good in short sprint events. At QR, they start to go off by about lap 3 or 4 and become too "squidgy" but would be superb for hillclimbs.

Love black cars - not as bad as everyone says. Sure it shows dust and finger marks more than most colours - but in my opinion its worth it. In half light (dusk and dawn) nothing else mirrors like it. Once you go black - you'll never go back.

Remix - N1 water pump and N1 oil pump

It will only send the old style tint purple. It used a vegetable dye in its formulation as opposed to metalic particles used in current window tints. If it turns it purple - its going to go purple all by itself from sun exposure.

Hell of a lot cheaper to buy one already built. Have a look around at most highly modded cars which are for sale. You will find in probably every case that the sale price does not reflect what has gone into the car.

Me again Engine/Car: R33 GTR Type of failure: Spun bearings due to suspected oil surge. <_< Factors influencing the failure: 2nd lap of a track day. Fairly warm day. State of tune of the engine: approx 700bhp (fly) Suspension and tyres: Ohlins / Eibach running Dunlop D02g's Oil used and service interval: Motul Race Oil - changed after every track session. General comments: After last rebuild used Tomei sump baffle kit, cam cover baffles, gallery restrictor and Accusump. Obviously not enough. Currently having the sump modified by Performance Metalcraft. Hopefully this should do the trick

Have a look at the ARC Super Induction Box. Draws air like a pod but should avoid being defected due to its design. I run one in my GTR. It actually has two intake panels - on top and on the side. All alloy construction with replaceable filters. Worth a look

Power figures by themselves don't mean too much - especially on the street. More importantly is where does it come on. I know of a number of high (and I mean big) horsepower cars that can't use any of it until after 5000-6000rpm. They would be eaten down low by a high torque car which comes on early. Mind you - once they wind up on a longer stretch its bye-bye, but generally thats not where most of us drive.

Done

"I am loving the fuel economy, I forgot how much better GTSTs are over GTRs in that respect." Jase, I'm sure the space shuttle has better fuel economy than GTR's. Nice find mate. I know you said it's not "Jason clean" but it looks like you could eat out of the engine bay as it is.

Cooper, what you would have seen would be the temperature sensor. Its about halfway along the car, screws into a bolthole just behind the cat. Shouldn't have any problems if it ground down slightly

Jase, will you still be tracking it in this "new" car??

As far as helmets go - the best you can get for the money you want to spend. Lets face it, you wear it in case of a crash - a sh1t helmet will give you sh1t protection. That being the case, I know we all buy budget. Try the likes of Tyretech and Revolution. Both have good cheap helmets. As far as tyre pressures goes, people would have recommended around 40psi because it is safest. Probably not the best for performance, but it ensures that if you hit a ripple strip sideways, it is not going to peel the tyre off the rim and flip the car. Once you are more comfortable with the track work, you can probably start reducing pressures to suit the conditions. As Predators said, fluids are important. Keep them cool and always make sure you have pressure (especially oil). With the temperatures these days, there is a fair chance you may run out of brakes - they tend to boil fairly quickly. If they start feeling doughy, be real careful. All of a sudden they can just dissappear completely. I always use an octane booster for detonation protection on the track. Wspecially if its going to be fairly hot. Best advice is to start slow and build up. Nerves usually make you go like a scalded cat right from the get go, but just pace yourself at around 75% of what you feel you can do, then build it up. You only need one fast lap to count. Have fun.

This should give you everything you need http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=68174&hl=

I find its not just taking the heat, but taking the heat cycling. The constant heat up and cool down cycles of tyres make them go hard after a while. It happens to all tyres, but some tend to resist it better than others. Quite often this is where the expense comes from - using compounds that are resistive to this cycling yet providing grip, comfort and durability.

Dave, I think (just my opinion) that perhaps dyno comps and the like have a lot to do with it. Just look at most of the car mags around claiming xxx car has yyy horsepower. Look closer and they are running 40psi boost. In reality, you are not going to drive the car around all day like that. If you do, someone with a low end set up will be a hell of a lot quicker around the streets. I have a reasonably quick car. People always ask "how much horesepower have you got". I have some idea roughly, but it is more the driveability and what it is put together for. The torque figure says more for me. I built mine up more specifically for track work, not drags, not dyno. It drives beautifily around town, doesn't make much after about 7000rpm, but comes onto boost at 2500-3000rpm with masses of torque. I quite agree that a lot of people are chasing numbers that don't really mean anything so far as driving the car goes. But then again - its their car and for the most they can do what they like.