Scott Black

Depends on the shifter, on the holinger box for the there is an extra lever thing on the shifter to pull back

Well i took it to my shop today, adjusted the height of the hsd coil overs, and did a wheel alignment found bent rear lh toe arm (+5 toe on LH side) bent front lh tie rod(still within spec, just slightly bent) soo much stuff on this car was soo stuffed, forgot to mention in my big post above that also was on a car o liner for ages to pull the chasis straight, this car had been in some seriously big hits. So have a few things to fix up soon so as well as the above my plans for now are adjustable camber and toe arms at the rear type x copy rear bar type x style side skirts cut down the rear muffler as its to long and looks a bit ugly at the rear, yet theres no space at the back to move it in more. then further plans for when time and cash are easyer to come by Gtr style front bar, cut down the bonnet and put gtr style grill r32 gtr rims bigger turbo, bigger injectors so i can have around the 300rwkw then my gearbox will break so ill need a better one for this im aiming to get a gts4 or gtr box (so same gearset as the 33 turbo) then attempt to make a way to use it as a rwd box, without needing to render it impossible to convert back to 4wd later. for further stupidty then for a time when i feel like going nuts again Strip the car back to bare metal, notch the front chasis rails to do a 4wd convertion (yes i know whats involved, its insane) install sunroof proper respray in 2k instead of acrylic paint, probley in bayside blue unfortunatly most of this is a very long way off, due to having a family and morgage and such. anyways heres some pics from today, needs a wash desperatly to.

Well I read threw all the rule book today for blueslip and unless you mod the tunnel or shifter hole I cant find a reason to fail it unless its in an adr somewhere. It wouldn't fail pinkslip, only way it would fail blueslip would of been a design check side of it.,and yeah can't find a reason yet would have to call rms tech enquires to be sure. That being said there is a huge difference between what's road legal and what you will be defected for

im fairly sure a sequental gearbox is not legal for road use, ill need to check my rule book, yet i recall the teacher mentioning it at the auvis course

another option you could try if find engine mounts that are shorted, look threw a macay catalouge for something that will work

becuase its a good 1/4 thicker than the manifold hes copying, or it looks that way in the pic, and if hes making it up on that head like it looks like hes doing, then he needs the flange bolted flat eveywhere, or the flange will warp with the heat from welding as it can pull away from the head in places its not bolted

unless its the same dyno, in the same conditions, with everything config wise identical (no new manifolds etc) THEN DONT USE OLD CHARTS, do a new baseline run, and then change from that, as a small change might not be noticed or might show as a loss when its a gain if you use a dyno chart from before you changed something, or on a different dyno, or with a different ramp, or a different gear, or different weather, idealy it should change yet it can.

Basically Im Scott, By trade Im a licence mechanic, panel beater, auto elec, and auto air con guy with dyno tuning experience to. Work at a small mechanical shop in south hurstville hopefully getting our own dyno in 2 months time. Technically my car belongs on nissan silvia where i also have a thread for it, Yet ive always felt more at home on SAU, I used to have an r32 skyline and loved this place when i had it, unfortunatly it was stolen several years back, and the insurance company decided when it was found it was better to just give me 3 grand that they said was market value (dickheads) than give me my beloved car back. So i went out and got a 1989 tn magna, put a na 4g63 in it and snaped the timing belt, so then bought a 1999 Toyota camry v6 mcv20, got married, bought a unit and settled down into post hoon life, Then one day by awesome wife noticed me looking at jap nissans alot of ebay and such and allowed me to get one, (i dont get paid alot and was just an apprentice when i started this so we dont realy have heaps of cash to throw around on stuff) So i found a wreck of a 180sx in someones front yard off gumtree for 800 bucks, rolling shell with most parts included. and i got it, first time i saw it was 9pm at night and picked it up then to. had a broken window, bent rails (didnt notice how bent until later), smashed in rear quarter panel, cut radiator support from a butcher removing the old ca18. what a great deal lol. Took it to my workshop, had a few parts laying around at my house and the workshop and my mate Jason had some parts to donate to the build as well. And so it began Whats amazing here, it behind what you can see pushed in on the rear quarter is a minimum of 1inch thick bog. So I started, I had an rb25 laying aorund from a issue with a wrecker, Grabbed an r33 cross member as i couldnt find my r32 one, Took Jasons old engine mount brackets Then realised I didnt have engine mounts themself, I knew from my research they had to be around 40mm high for clearance issues (lol i was worried about clearance back then) As the show had to go on i made do with that i had And in it went rb25 sporting the turbo from an r32 rb20, from my old r32 before i updated to a r33 turbo on that. found a r33 s1 loom on ebay, an r33 s2 ecu, and had some old r32 coil packs and ca18 coil packs between me and Jason that eventually got me a set. Ended up getting some landcruiser engine mounts, to be almost the right height, as no way in hell was i going to have that car move under its own power with those mounts lol Now the motors in, Gearbox time, Car used to be auto, so drill a hole in the fire wall for the clutch master cylinder buy a clutch pedal from an s14 of some random forum dude, make a clutch line, get a new slave cylinder get an r33 flywheel and clutch of my good mate Jason hmm no gearbox, Have a gearbox at work, yet its reverse gear is stuffed Found a s13 ca18 manual box with the front half of the tailshaft to, got it for 150 bucks in unknown condition off ebay pulled the rb20 box i had at work apart and swapped the reverse gear with the one from the s13 box, as i cant just swap bell housing and the output shaft and extention housing of the s series fs5w71c is longer than the rb ones. found a c cross member i had from my r32 days, put that on, and it all bolted up swaped the front half of the tail shaft with my auto one and that bolted up easy problem was the gear was worn down to much for it to remain in reverse, all good now with the s13 gear though. so thats the motor and box bolted in, almost home free.......LOL wiring, So i found an r33 loom, cut it up to see what went where, patched into the ecu outputs to test. powered up and spun the cas https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10150630928109069&set=vb.758294068&type=3 all working. all good , https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10150681519814069&set=vb.758294068&type=3&permPage=1 might have a vacume leak or something, pac performanace joke was co worker comment saying it sounded like a rotor then got a ej20 turbo liberty afm, and did some pipe work and ran good https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10150688175364069&set=vb.758294068&type=3&permPage=1 place looks like a bit of a dump, had a few issues that day lol. sidchrome airbox for the exhaust just used a jjr ca18 front pipe on the stock dump and modded the pipe going to the cat to fit the stock ca exhaust then brakes between me and jason i had a set of r32 front brakes, bought a set of s15 front hubs from skyline spares, got a set of r32 rear hubs and brakes from skyline spares, and put all that in, had some modding for the handbrake cable, yet nothing much, and some stock gtst wheels So now the abonimnation can drive, sort of used a modified xr6 fmic for the start. r31 power steering pump and r32 gtr stock radiator Yet the clutch fan doesn fit, over heats with stock stupid thermofans on the front no ac cracks in the dash broken window paint is soo ratshit condition thats looking a bit better cleaned up my airbox a touch went to pick n payless blacktown and got a window from an s13 there and she looked a bit better then, paints crap yet im not a good painter, so then i took it for a drive, and the throttle kept getting stuck found it was hitting the bonnet, so i hit the bonnet myself to give it some clearance, still getting to hot though so at first i put a forward facing plenum to stop hitting the bonnet for good, then cut the radiator support a little bit to get ac stuff in there and modified an rx5 radiator to fit, wouldnt help overheating at all i know, yet it let me fit a gk tech clutch fan still had issues with over heating, air conditioning and fitting a decent intercooler, so this is where things changed a little bit had the shits with the poor state of the dash and interior so i replaced the carpet put an r34 steering wheel r34 front seats and an s15 dash with all s15 dcc gear (required firewall mods) looked like a different car after that, need to vaccumm here i know. lack of space still pissed me off in the engine bay, so i got a bit creative, and missed my old car a fair bit got a grinder out and went nuts Notice to anyone thinking this is a good idea, Nothing bolts on, nothing fits, even the gaurds are a half half gaurd and where they bolt onto for the rear two holes in the engine bay are rivet nuts also added a r32 gtr wing at some point i was going to put on my gtst there it is with a bit more poor paint around this time i got an adaptronic select 420d ecu, pretty awesome, as i was also doing dyno tuning, so thought id do some on my car lol made 100rwkw on the base tune with 97% duty cycle and 14:1 afr at 14 psi boost on the stock turbo, so big problems i had to address then on the way home was defected for some random things fixed the defected things, and thought i need to clean up the car, so grafted the r32 raditor support onto my car, redid my intercooler piping, had already fitted a better intercooler, fitted an r33 turbo, fitted an e85 compatable walbro, and some ls2 coils. spent 4 hours on the tune, end result was 197 rwkw on 14psi boost around 11.5:1 at full load and not even 60% duty cycle on stock injectors, much much better, also fitted a new radiator and have fully working s15 dcc. now it has some hsd coil overs as well, will be adjusting them and doing a wheel alignment tommorrow, will try to get some better pictures of the car soon, as i have a 6 month old child, work on the car for the past year had been very slow yet with the amount ive learnt on this car as i went has improved me so much, the main thing it showed me, is dont be scared of issues, when you run into them, find a way, if it doesnt work, then find another way, (when i got it years ago i was just an apprentice mech (yet fully qualified panel beater, not painter, i cant paint lol) yet in the end i should of bought another r32, i realy do miss my old car. ill clean up this thread over the next couple of weeks when i remember other things and look threw some better photos.

average system takes around the 650g of gas mark, some leaks are as small as a few grams a year, say you have a small 15 gram a year leak, its still going to work pretty well for 3 years or so, and after that will just fail to be as cold as it should then stop all together. in the code of practise for auto ac (2008) it says that you should service (pretty much leak check, regas and change the dryer out) every 5 year http://www.arctick.org/pdf/Automotive_RAC_CoP.pdf page 13 (dryer needs to be replaced every regas, and needs to be regasses every 5 years) page 16 (needs to be leak checked whenever regasses) page 18 (need to tell you to run the system for atleast 5 min weekly to keep it healthy) just random information that most people dont know, and arnt told

dryer needs to be changed if going from r12 to r134a, oil to depending on what oil is in it, then two valve adaptors installed, also technically your not allowed to put r12 in cars any more anyway, and cars need to be leak tested before regassing (vacc and hold pressure for atleast half an hour, nitrogen is just useful for finding leaks that are a bitch to find) or your going against the terms of your arctick licence. alternativly hychil can be done without a licence yet thats opening another can of worms, and thats only if there is no gas in the system at all or it needs to be recovered by a licenced person what jiffo is saying is take a photo of the little valves on the aluminimum lines in the engine bay to show what type they are http://www.aa1car.com/library/ac_service_fittings.gif that shows the difference

should get a point up high again where the line switches back over to make more power with vct off again, about 7000rpm on a stock rb25 for what its worth. basically need it off to clean up the idle, as soon as its off idle turn in on, then off again just before redline. next time ive got my car on the dyno ill do the two runs, and overlay them to show.

yeah i know about those things, i thought you ment swapping parts between makes, im auvis (blueslip) at my workshop, the vsi 06 has the basic rundown though, the RVDs also show what came out optioned on what car. http://myrta.com/rvd/searchRVD.do

with the new rules that came out with the vsccs system your limited to same make for engine swaps now, so no 1jz skylines without a engineers report now its on the updated vsi06

if its in nsw it doesnt need engineering, it just needs a blueslip, as its no different to changing it to the rb25de that came in the car standard as well. then its registered as a non turbo r33 as if you bought a non turbo one. if its around sydney and everything in the car is legit and road worthy i can help you there provided you dont mind bringing the car to hurstville, if its a rubish car, rust, lowered, loud, dark tints, huge wheels or anything like that then i cant help though.

while ive never measured the output of the stock ecu, i for some reason assumed it to be around the 2500 mark as im pretty sure thats near full saturation of the stock coil pack, and most ecus have the rb base map set to that, according to the nistune users guide most stock nissan crap is around the 3ms mark, id need to scope the output to be sure though, so you may very well be right, yet one thing i noticed straight away was leaving the dwell the same and putting in the ls1 coils made a huge difference when running stupidly rich mixtures

for stockish application providing the coils are in good condition the 2500ms or so dwell the factory ecu uses works well, at 3000ms dwell at 15psi on stock turbo and stock engine they can ignite a richer than 10:1 98 ron fuel mix at 7000rpm that the factory coils couldnt. ( this was before tuning the car hence the stupidly rich mix from a ecu basemap) and for what its worth it would idle and free rev fine at 500ms to lol. (small mistake in entering updated dwell on ecu)

Chris from Best mufflers over at Carlton does some pretty good work, seen alot of his work on old ford's and holdens that have been awesome. He does do imports to, yet I've mainly seen his work on old muscle

factory options are legal, providing the meet the noise requirements, yet even though most exhuasts arnt technicaly legal according to rms design rules, the cops only dick you if there to loud realistically

Actually police are on a different level, I'm auvis so pink and blue slips and therefor know whats legal and police can defect whatever they like legal or not because there on another level and then it's up to people like me to confirm it's legal, also for what it's worth it does technically need to be a stock exhaust,even though places will clear it anything made post mid 70s need to be oe or oe equivalent, only thing u can put aftermarket is extractors really. The dB limits are there yet anything non factory needs engineering

Otherwise it's like $30 for an update of details to correct the year model

I had some misfire on boost before I tuned my car last week, that cleared up after installing some ls2 coils I bought 2nd hand for 150 bucks, basically at the stock 2.5 ms dwell they were igniting a mix that was to rich for the stock coils to ignite, set up as coil on plug in wasted spark on an adaptronic 420d, trimmed the stock boot down and put em straight on the plug. Peice of aluminium angle with a few holes and all mounted nice. After tuning on weds, I'm making 196rwkw with stock turbo, and stock injectors, only at a touch under a bar boost on shell 98

im pretty sure the ls2 coil is around the 5ms dwell time

Halfway there I have the running gear and most of the front end

Can't do shit to fix it, give up and get a skyline instead of a drifter

ive got a set for my 180sx with an rb25 yet dont know how they go as yet to install, yet the dualtech series are a twin tube shock istead on monotube, ment to be a less harsh ride on the road, yet less suited for track use. hsd also do a more expensive monotube shock (the dts retail around the 1k mark, or for about 1.3k the monotube hsd) you can also get them from wholesale suspention, who would be happy to talk to you about the differences.