Scott Black

Is that highflow on a stock manifold

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347726-kando-dynamics-turbo/ Read

you want peak cylinder pressure at around 12 degrees atdc,any more or any less and you lose torque, you therefor need to ignite the mix so it burns at a rate that gives peak pressure at that angle, as revs go up, the piston moves faster so mix needs to be lit earlyer or peak pressure will occur after the desired angle, and waste power, yet you dont want to advance to much as the other side puts stupid amounts of strain on the motor and wastes energy to. however as more load is placed on the motor, more heat is in the chamber so mix burns faster, so timing needs to decrease to keep peak pressure at the right angle, or else your firing to early and can cause damage from to much strain. this is on a motor that isnt limited by knock, most rb25 with big turbos and huge boost will be knock limited at some point, so wont actually be able to be at 12 degrees atdc with peak cylinder pressure as the burn is to unstable and starts pinging so in these cases peak pressure ends up being later atdc to keep things working without damage how do you measure this? knock ears and a dyno, increase timing in a cell while holding steady state on the dyno and watch the torque fiqure, it will plateau and then drop, at the start of this plateau is where you want your timing to be, any more or any less and your wasting power and arnt helping the motor at all, if when advancing the timing it starts to ping before it plateaus, thats how you know the engine is knock limited, and timing needs to be put back to stop the pinging slight changes in engine setups, and even just slight tollerance differences between motors, is what could make one map work perfect for one persons motor, and make another persons motor need a tow truck, so be careful when playing with ignition timing without the correct tools

what is the newer version of fast everyone is using, also rs13-611755 does that vin work for anyone, if so what version of fast are you using as its not working on my version, and i know it corrects

unless its for drag racing

mm yet if hes not gaining anything below 5k by advancing the cam further then its not any more laggy with vct off, (strange imo as theres normally a gain) yet if hes advanced it so its already at its best setting for say the 2-5k range, then it should get a gain by retarding it above this leve, why i think its strange as hes saying thers no gain anywhere by changing the cam timing from what hes set it to, and thats very very strange

i was fairly sure it was more around a 20 degree advance, and stock cams are in the best postition for stock aplication, emmitions, etc, not nessasarly power so there is gain to be had there edit yeah was beaten twice there but your results seem strange to me, when i get my dyno in a couple of months ill revisit this thread with some playing around on the dyno with cam adjustment angles in a few conditions

or try taking your motor thats been dialed in, and doing power runs at a further 20 degree intake retard, or a 20 degree advance, and see if there are any areas where you can from the extra advance, this will show you the use for vct

I will admit as a mechanic i have seen more problems with optical sensors on stock cars than hall sensors

i like the adaptronic as if you get from hypergear with a turbo its only like 1100 for the plug in and then you never need to worrie about an afm

Although 3k might be a little optimistic as around 2k for ecu and turbo, then it needs tune for around 60-1000 depending on where you go, then there's still a fmic kit and exhaust

Read the hypergear thread pinned in this section for turbo, a ecu like adaptronic select would negate the need for a afm, and don't bother with the pulley kit

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/251669-rb2530-rb30det-vvt-internal-oil-control/page-2 this page here shows the plug we talking about and theres some drawings to show where it cuts off oil supply, so im really shocked it wasnt needed in you case. amazing

yeah thats amazing, hopefully i get to build another one soon then and look into it more, thats def not a neo head right?

What vct mod did you do

Sorry, I was thinking sr for a minute, Rb lifters just need to be stored in oil when out of the head,and should be bleed with all air out after idling for 5 to ten Min.

Also did you bleed the lifters before installing

Vct solinoid should give a small change in idle quality, I'm guessing since you. Changed the vct gear you have rechecked timing marks.

When you say the main gallery you mean it was comming out the other cam journals and such? If not then where. As I've had one home built rb30 come into my shop with the front cam journal completely stuffed and he hadn't done that mod when building it, and on the 3 I've done I've cut it down and havnt had any issue. I'll need to look into it more on the next one I build

Have you also checked that it's running on all 6 cylinders and hasn't fouled plugs or left a coil unplugged

If it's crap before boost I'd definitely check the timing belt is installed correctly like there saying, and then dial the cams into tomei specs and go from there, yet you need a degree wheel for the last part

i sometimes use a spreader at work, yet if you get one lubricate the threads often as if you dont after a few uses the thread will be stuffed

deleting the vct oil feed passage on the bottom of the head to build a 25/30 without running an external feed to the vct starves the front journal of oil, might work ok for a while as the heads get a stupid amount of oil up there, yet its not good for the cam, the way to fit this is to take out the brass plug from behind the cam gear, and cut it off at the part where it things out before getting larger again, and then reinstall it, this allows the oil galery to goto the front of the head, if you dont do this the oil galary is blocked before the front journal.

whatever cam adjustment is loose is the one that is being adjusted, as if the exhuast adjustment is loose and you turn the engine clock wise, the exhaust cam will stay stationary, and the intake cam and crack will spin, and the exhuast cam gear will move slightly, and this will RETARD the the ehxaust cam by making exhuast events happen later in the cycle, it will also increase overlap and cause a shitter idle