Scott Black

ive used acl bearings countless times in engines that ive build threw work, never had an issue, only times ive had issues with bearings have been when im trying to get away with stuff i shouldnt, like keep a mates motor running for a bit longer after they have picked up the big ends, by just swapping them out with ones the right size and no maching. yet anyone who does something like that and has issues then blames the bearings are just stupid

All coils need some time to charge, however some of the more powerful coils can still output a very powerful spark before there fully saturated so work better than a stock ignition system, it's what they use on old.gts that rev to 7k yet only use the one coil for 8 cylinders, weather that's enough with the higher cylinder pressure from forced induction I cant answer 100% because I'm used to using ls2 coils with wasted spark as minimum

At 7000 rpm you have the coil firing 14000 times a minute or about 233 times a second, or about once every 4ms so that 4ms the coil needs to charge and fire( discharge). For peak performance a ls coil needs 5ms just for the charge. If you went to 4 coils even in wasted spark you still have 8ms so a decent amount of time for dwell, or sequential igniting giving you 16ms for dwell so heaps of time.

What coil are you using, as using one stock coil to fire 4 cylinders at 7000 rpm makes me think that there isn't enough time for the coil to reach saturation and there for weaker spark that's easier to fail to ignite at higher loads. So I'd say either replace the coil with one that needs less dwell for full saturation while still putting out a decent spark or yeah 4 ls coils. What ecu are you using and what sort of signal does the dizzy give, and what outputs does the ecu have as the ls coils with inbuilt ignitors are pretty simple to wire up in most cases, also I wouldn't think it's a trigger issue as if it was it wouldn't be affected as much by varying boost levels

prob sitting at the back of a shop/garage gathering dust till he has the motivation or time or money to keep working on it at a guess

found out i could just click the pic from the main page and it came up with an option to change it, thats awesome also for some reason i only get an edit link on posts ive just made, not ones made a while before hand, as in this post is the only one in the thread i can edit

is it ve based or still pulsewidth ms for fuel tables, if its ve based, enter all the crap you need into the settings, then just put 100 across the entire map and 15degrees timing and it should be able to make it start from that.

As a side note, anyone know how to change the picture it uses for the thread

Was looking threw the for sale section last weekend and a guy called France was selling some GTR parts so I now have some GTR wheels Also did some test fitting of some side skirts ive had laying around for a while, Will require a fair bit of work, also need to rebuild the door hinges (pins and bushes) so they stop sagging and wont scrap on the skirts when installed, yet will do that work when i get a set of type x copy rear pods and bar lip. Also I REALLY need to do something about seating as the r34 seat is not a good option for me.

Yeah seen em replaced with forward facing stuff

If the motor let's go it will damage the head, if metal shavings go up to the cams it will damage the cams and the head, the previous owner probley put a really thick oil in the car to mask the noise so he could sell it to rip someone off into thinking the motors fine.

How long have you left e85 sitting in the rail for as we had an evo at my shop never had an issue ran on e85 for a few years now, left to sit for around 6 months and when starting idle was shit house and wouldn't rev right, afrs f**ked. All injectors were gunked up, dropped in a new set of the same ones (Id's) and back to perfect. Only issues I've seen if when the cars been left sitting for long periods of time. Running lots of fuel threw em and not having it sit generally gives no issues

yep, big ends, the more you drive the more damage your doing, if you strip it now you might be able to get away with linishing the crank (or maybee machine to undersized )and new bearings, if you keep driving, (maybee already to late) you will destroy the crank, rods, even have the motor let go and leave you stranded, pretty much if you want to rebuild, the more the motor runs the higher your bill gets

airflow over the engine bay might of cooled down everything again after the car sat for a while, yet on the motorway the engine running for longer periods of time warms everything right up again, or it might be seperate, yet id start by changing the temp sensor then go from there

Where you looking from a mobile using 3g as for some reason when I use sau on my mobile over mobile data it redirects me to a spam site 90% of the time just before the Page is fully loaded, if however I'm using wifi on my mobile or I'm using the sau app or I'm on my computer it all works perfect.

to bad theres nothing more recent with the sn grade oils

I can't.

Providing its after the ic it should be ok. Closer to the engine is better as it's the air entering the engine, yet there shouldn't be a huge change in air temps between the ic outlet and the throttles

Simple test is to put a multimeter on the temp sensor or just read the value from the ecu and get a hair dryer and blow air from that over it. If the reading doesn't change then you know that the sensors stuffed, wait so you mean the air manifold temp sensor, if so on the rb26 there really shithouse as there really a water temp sensor fitted as a air temp, so the element is surrounded with brass and very susceptible to heat soak, I'd get one the same sort of style as a vp commodore and install it on the ic piping before the manifold or the manifold itself if it fits

What ecu are you using, what engine, does it have intake temp.correction, is the injector pulsewidth changing significantly, have you checked to ensure its not an issue with the afr gauge. Have you.checked the signal from the temp sensor to ensure its correct and giving the ecu the correct signal

so its tuned with those injectors running on 98 ron with your current setup? if so just go into the software, and change the injector size to about 35% smaller or so and it will run alot better. or alternativly add 30% over the entire ve table

Haltec give out basemaps in there software, there designed for the stock engine in stock configuration, really there more the right trigger settings for the engine with a tune that will let the motor run

condensor, dryer (should get this part brand new), compressor, and pipes, should be a pipe from firewall (evaporator box) to the compressor, from the compressor to the condensor, from the condensor to the dryer, and from the dryer to firewall(evaporator) replace all the o rings with brand new hnbr seals, put the dryer in last and just before it gets regassed, drain all the oil oil from the compressor and put new oil in it. also if you dont have it on the engine already you will need the bracket the ac compressor bolts onto, and the idler pully and of course a fan belt the fan at behind the front bar they shouldnt of taken off as it actually for the engine overheating, yet can be hooked up to come on with ac, and it makes the ac work ALOT better

also is the haltec currently tuned to your car running 98? if not and you just want it to start, you can try the r33 base map in the nissan folder on the haltec software, its the basemap from haltec, its probley shit, yet set injector size to around 700cc and leave the other settings alone and it should run, let the tuner know anything you do to the base map though.

pm sent re wheels