Scott Black

What hear were you in for that run and what rpm is 125 kph in that gear

More to it, ecus need to be tuned to your motor and settings, always a risk running someone else's tune. Is your car and auto or manual as they are different and that affects what you can get. If manual something like a power fc or adaptronic select would be great, nistune can be done yet is a stuff around using different ecus either an r32 with rpm switch or a 300's ecu.

Yeah pretty much instead of fixing a problem you decided to hide it at the cost of increased wear on the rest of the engine, alot of older holdens and ford's run thicker oil as there engines were designed around larger tolerances, and bigger galleries etc. My boss uses 20/50 in a high powered 351c from the 70's doesn't mean I should put it in my 2013 pulsar

Depends what he removed, in that link it's missing the compressor I think, you need the evaporator and tx valve that goes behind the dash, the compressor that goes on the motor, the condenser and dryer that are on the radiator support. And all the hoses. Then it needs to be regassed, post a picture of the firewall in your engine bay on the passenger side as that should show if the evaporator is still in the car.

Do the normal checks see if you can get a copy of the Japanese auction sheet to. I think some people on the forum that can help with that

Overheat sensor, triggers a light on the dash. You can get rid of it.

As an alternative, if you have full comprehensive insurance and an lowish excess then make a claim

As for costs of repair, the parts costs is most likly going to be the bulk of the bill and is highly variable, if you were going to pay a mechanic to do the work there is probley anywhere between 3-6 hours labour depending on what shop you goto.

Ok most likly will need a rim, tyre, stub axle, upper and lower control arms, hicas the arm, possible strut, can't see that well in the photo, possible subframe as there weak as shit, may have bent the body a bit to. It would be moderately difficult if you have changed turbos yourself. Be hard to do yourself if the subframe needs to come out. I'm a panel beater and mechanic, I work at south hurstville yet live at cabramatta, if your around either of those areas I'm happy to come past and have a look and let you know how bad the damage is. For parts, finding someone parting out a r32 would be the cheapest option, aside from that you have skyline spares at wetherill park that I use alot. Or as an alternative you could buy the arms that are bend as aftermarket adjustable arms from just jap, gk tech and so on.

No offence yet when I was on my p's I though my corolla that snapped the exhaust off at the manifold sounded awesome and tough.....

Hypergear do cheap highflow so run 15 psi and when it let's go buy a hypergear

Depends on budget really for a cheapish ecu I love adaptronic yet pretty much any aftermarket stand alone should be usable

We have one at our workshop alot, sees more shop time than track time, only makes about 300 awkw, been in for diffs multiple times, transfer case, one gearbox, 3 turbos, manifold, exhaust, clutch, normally he's lucky enough to be able to drive it onto the trailer when the car shits itself, so it doesn't look as dramatic as a skyline fail. Yet they have there fair share of issues

In that case there are alot of aftermarket ecus availible for your car

Auto or manual

If it's set to what it's ment to be on the ecu especially an aftermarket ecu then dont worry to much, also does it have a cam gear on the exhaust and that adjustment can make it move move towards one side of the adjustment, and then you can normally offset trigger angles in aftermarket ecus. So If it's right then leave it, when I Put my ecu in I just tightened up the cas and justed the trigger offset on the ecu to set timing cause I'm lazy

Can should be keyed to prevent incorrect installation, do you have the ecu put into timing mode to be able to set it,also how are you hooking up the timing light

Also, is it the injector itself that's leaking or an o ring on the top of the injector

Thanks The cars was originally an auto, I could get all the info except build date from the model code, yet didn't know why the vin wouldnt work on my fast version (2010 apparently)

If it's leaking out the bottom into the manifold it will run richer, if leakong out the top and over the motor it will run leaning and start a fire. If you change to anything besides stock you will need some sort of aftermarket ecu management, be that a nistune,power fc, adaptronic or any other ecu. The car will not run right without doing that. So if you change to bigger injectors you need a new ecu now. Yet what are you looking to get out of the car first, as if your happy stock, or even up 300awkw the stock injectors are up to the task, if you want to go heaps more power or e85 then yes injectors are needed.

Prob over 400rwkw as I've seen a few cars in the mid to high 300's with stock lines and stock filters, I'd say when you need to upgrade the line upgrade the filter then.

It's for a rb25det yet if you follow the wiring near the coils you can trace it to a cap. http://www.paulr33.com/diagrams/rb25det-engine-diagram.jpg

Pretty sure it's the capacitor for the ignitor for the ignition system, I'd leave it on.

Do you have a tune done as it very well could be starving as it will need more fuel when nos activates