Scott Black

used to have a rb20 r32 gtst now have a rb25 gts4 what i like about the 20 practically indestructable, limit bashed and thrashed all day, overheated it many times, abused so much and never gave me a single issue what i didnt like about it a bit down on power compared to the 25s and 26 id driven, what i like about the 25 has more power earler what i dont like living in constant fear that the oil pump or ring lands are about to die

what was done in this further tune work, how are you controlling idle without the aac valve, what model rb is it? assuming its a 26 as you mention multple throttles what ecu are you using? if its a 26 how did you spray down all the thottles, and why did you use water for that?

Had to add one wire into the loom to for vct and a pin at the ecu.... Then after a few months I cut the ecu end off and wired in an aftermarket ecu anyway

I used factory loom, didn't swap pins on the ecu.yet as I have to swap the injector harness plugs I swapped two around there. Had to extend about 6 wires to yet that was more manifold issue as not factory. Hicas, if your serious just keep the 20 pump and swap balancer so the fan belts the right number of ribs

Best option after comp test it drop the sump and check the mains and big ends as they won't show up on a comp test

I don't as it helps stop posts from the same newbs like why doesn't my engine run or why is my engine bay on fire

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https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://nistune.com/docs/Z32_ECU_Modifications_Direct_R33_Plugin%2520V8.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjYrK7y8MvMAhVFHaYKHRyVD2MQFggaMAA&usg=AFQjCNHPYhrNsFbbIq-BjtzZjbgbCap3Mw&sig2=3Ng6DuTFNwbkVE-GeIupyw That should link to a pdf from nistunes website. Read that and ask if you have any more questions. If the link doesn't work Google nistune z32 r33 and it will be the first link at the top of the page

Essentially your saying I want to change injectors yet don't want to worries about pulsewidth just see how I go at first. Dwell is the most important setting for the coil, to little and it won't run to much and you destroy your coils.

Also for any one wondering. The v6 commodore uses 3 twin output coils sitting ontop of an ignition module(not ignitor) so literally only fires 3 coils yet each coil being twin post does two cylinders. Ugly setup.

Oh no....your using the 6 cylinder commodore coils.....please tell me atleast your not attempting to use the ignition module that's ment to sit below them? If so forget it. If however your trying to use just the coil packs(unsure why as there crap and fail so much and I'm unsure if the dwell is even compatible) then yeah you need to bridge the inputs to the ignitor then only use 3 of the outputs yet it won't effect the timing light as its always going to be firng at the same time relative to crank position

id agree with seeing if you can buy a turbo neo motor from japan cheap enough as the NA neo head doesnt flow as well due to smaller ports if i recall correctly so wouldnt be that awesome compaired to a proper det neo

mines just the standard journal bearing, got it last week, looks pretty nice, hopefully i can post in this thread after i tune it, otherwise ill drop half a tank of e85 in,

how thick are the lines going to the header tank, as in diameter, whats the radiator cap rated at?

ill be running the non bb version of the 43sat iwg on my car, hoping to tune it next weekend yet that will depend if a part i ordered tonight gets here in time, if it doesnt then whatever day it gets here ill throw it on my dyno and see how it goes. stock rb25, 3"tbe, fmic, so that should give you a better idea if you can wait a week or two

slightly less yet not much at all, very happy with all the shots

so i just bought the photos john had on my car, to show others, when you get them he gives you a high res copy and a low res with a small watermark, these are the low res ones of my car

ill be interested in this also

alternativly if the ecu supports changing from sequential to batch fire have it running at a stable afr using batch fire, then swap to sequential if its leaner when sequential then increase dead times, if its richer decrease, and change back and forth like that until there is no change in afr

I'll be there

for what its worth, if your going to goto the effort of modifying or making up new lines for an ac system, you may aswell replace the compressor with a universal aftermarket type and just get the lines made to suit, and on the topic of higher pressures, you should have a low and high pressure switch installed to make the ac cut off if pressures get to high, yet a newer style of condenser will cool better so lower pressures a bit more and keep the car ac abit cooler.

Well have you checked if you have 12v with ignition on to one side of each injector? If not then you have a break in the harness on the power side of the injector harness. If you do then you need to trace each pin on the other side of each injector back to the ecu. And if you do and that all checks out then it just leaves a dead injector driver on the ecu board then.

Quality aftermarket only seem to work better than genuine coils as the genuine coils there compared to are 20 years old, never seen the slightest hint that bolt in aftermarkets perform any better than new oem. The ls coil is a differnt thing all together though

Ok, Basically the stock fuel pressure reg has a outlet size very similar to inlet size, inside the reg is a valve controled by a spring, this spring has a set pressure, when the fuel pressure is below the desired level the valve closes and pressure increases to the point there is enough pressure to push the spring open, as the outlet and inlet are very similar sizes it basically means if you can push it into the reg it can flow out of it, so the reg wont be overrun unless you have stupidly big pumps with upgraded bigger fuel lines and an upgraded fuel rail, the only other part to the reg is the vacum diaghpham that varys how much pressure the spring needs to move related to vacume and boost so the fuel pressure stays at a set level compaired to manifold pressure. so unless the internals of the reg are stuffed, and the fact you have tried a few means this wont be the issue id say you have a restriction in the return line somewhere, or a faulty pressure gauge, how are you hooking up your fuel pressure gauge? besides blowing into the return line, try putting a fuel presure gauge inline with the outlet of the fuel pressure reg, if you get a pressure reading there, then you know you have a restriction there.

i got one at my workshop