Scott Black

Yet if e85 I'd prob stay 6

Yeah I'd run a 7 copper plug yet I'd think it's the gap causing the miss rather than the heat range

Umm not to alarm you yet apart from being a load of shit it's also dangerous. There's factory specs for timing belt tensions for a reason and if it's to tight it will make noise and will also cause premature fail and if it fails you get to is piston to valve contact, meaning very expensive to fix.

Ok, Basically dyno doesn't actually read rpm for any of its primary calcs except derived torque, the power and motive force are calculated directly off road speed based on pressure applied to the load cell, then you have have a few other calculations going on to get derived torque based off either an input on the dyno to measure rpm or off a user set rpm based off road speed. so the primary scale for all dynos is actually road speed on a roller, or hub rpm on a hub, (hub rpm is very different to engine rpm) to get rpm readings on some cars can be a real prick, even with you have inductive and primary based pickups, as some cars especially ones with msd units will fire more than once giving really stupid readings on inductive pickups if you cant access the tach output on the msd box (very common occurrence when idiots have mounted the box right up under the dash behind alot of crap) also the rpm pickups are sensitive to interference that can make them unreliable at times, my own person car that works well on my dyno 95% of the time still has the occasional run where the pickup gets some interference off something else on the car and gives me readings of like 30krpm, where as because the road speed pickup is always dead accurate to the result. (not saying the dynos road speed is the same as actual road speed as tyre slip and crap puts that out a fair bit,if you have a decent tach input and graph rpm vs kph you can see this very easily ) in terms of tuning, the only time it really matters is it makes it a bit quicker to do the ramp testing high load stuff yet even then there's still delays in fueling from wide-band placement and how quick the engine accelerates means your rarely adjusting the 5krpm cells for a issue with 5krpm on the plot and as far at steady state lower load situations all the ecu side of tuning, the tuning software and logging software on the laptop your tuning with gets a perfect rpm signal direct from the ecu your adjusting (sometimes this signal can be fed direct to the dyno to depending on dyno and ecu brand and what level of options you have on the dyno) so in terms of tuning the dyno having the rpm reading isn't a huge advantage all the time.

Remortgage my house to start a tuning buisness, with government tax incentives I ended up with a decent tax return that I blew on a motor now am completely broke again wishing I could afford a turbo lol

Well will need stock afms to work Yet as stated the ecu was probley put in for a reason. If everything is stock however it shouldn't be to difficult to revert back. Where abouts are you located?

Yep to the pins and fasteners yet no the rb26 bearings. My motor currently only making 335awkw on e85, yet will go alot higher once I have more funding to upgrade the turbo and manifold as its currently just the stock rb25 manifold with an internal gate hypergear atr43g3 Sent from my E5823 using SAU Community mobile app

With no labour for assembly as I'm a mech my long motor cost me 11k That's spool I beams, cp pistons, spline driven oil gears, new oil pump for the housing, new water pump, new timing belt kit, seals and gaskets, cometic head gasket. Arp mains, arp head bolts,new valve Springs, exhaust head porting, head reco, block decked, bored, tunnel bored and chemical clean, crank linished and collar fitted, random fittings for external oil feed for vct, sump modifications, a few other bits and peices

I welded the head on Mine to suit the rb30 gasket

Yep neo chamber is heaps smaller than the non neo, so the neo pistons would lower the comp of a non neo head a stupid amount

Yet he would want the higher spring pressures to be able to increase his boost as the rb25 head with stock Springs has a tendency to get valve float much above 20psi, I'd be tempted to try the stock cams again, it probably won't help, as the issue is most likly the springs, what spring pressures does camtech recommend with there cam?

i used to get a bad metalic burning smell with white smoke in the car before i blew my transfer case, yet mine failed and the mesh over the oil pickup in the transfer case had disentergrated and therefore wasnt filtering as it should. also the reason people are suggesting front diff/cv even thou the noise goes away when pulling the awd fuse is because the load on the front diff changes when turning corner, and also by removing the awd fuse you actually remove the load on the front diff, so that can change the noise if it is from the diff, if it was the transfer case i dont imagine it changing much by removing the fuse, and most of the components are still moving like normal anyway just the clutch packs are not engaged. so the diff drives the chain rather than the chain driving the diff

I've got one on my motor,why? For bonnet clearance when my 25 was in my 180, now I still have it on my 32 as bonnet clearance with an rb30 and because top feed standard hight injectors. More top end? Barly noticeable at 300kw, however there was a noticeable loss of low-end/midrange power on the rb25 can't comment on the difference with the 30 thou

I just received my rb26 awd sump that was modified for increased capacity and baffles and gates including making a pickup for it to suit my rb30. Can't fault it. Easy to deal with by phone and email.

Because the further before tdc the spark plug fires the more advanced it is as its occurring earlyer on in the cycle

I used a yellow jacket r33 s1 igniter on the rb25 in my old 180sx for 2 years at a bit over 200rwkw getting trashed hard every time it was used never gave me an issue. Still got it in my garage actually

Definitely not fixed at all, oil pump engagement still to small with poor clearances still lots of failures just not as common as a slightly newer car

Sent you a message

Just because upgrades where done doesn't mean there the cause of the problem yet always good to check over them The reason it's important what fuse blew. Say it's an ecu fuse and it had the wrong rating in it, it may have damaged the ecu itself before blowing or what other circuits it's on Yet as for the car not running, I think it's he's lost he needs to take a step back and pretend it's a car that's just come in not running. First go over the basics Does it have fuel Does it have fuel pressure Does it have compression Are the plugs in good Condition and not fouled. Removing timing case upper cover and ensure cam timing still correct Get an ecu pinout and ensure ecu has power and earth everywhere it should. Including when cranking the motor Check power to critical circuits,cas injectors and coils and afm, check injectors pulse and coils fire Check your getting a good signal from the cas, Check ecu data to ensure it knows the engine is cranking and the afm signals are reasonable Check each one of them individually as if the car doesn't run it will show up as a problem there. When you work out where the problem is then you can work out how to fix it. I'm a mechanic and auto elec by trade and the amount of time I've wasted by skipping something small that I thought couldn't be a problem only to have it stuff me over later is ridiculous, that's why sometimes you need to take a step back from the issue and start over. Old saying is can't see the forest for the trees.

Also any wires running close the a bit of sharp metal or plastic behind the dash that they may have cut threw and exposed the wire, Has he tested all critical stuff for the car to not run, eg fuel pump powering up, fuel pressure at the rail, power to the ecu,power to coils, power to injectors injector pulse,coils firing, cas signal scopes at ecu and at cas Finally what fuse was it blowing as that might give.more insite into the problem.

If the shorts.gone will the car start now and

Just a quick follow up as I've now got my car running,even though it's an r32. Both my upper and lower radiator hoses are the ones that were on my rb25 so I'd imagine you need standard r34 radiator hosea and the eBay kit you got is either rubbish or for an r33