superspit

It's the 3 pedal version bro.

Nup!! I never do 'school runs'.

Hi Skliner's, hows it ...ahhh...doesn't matter. I thought that I may pose a 'querky' (?) question on the standard 33 ECU. If I was to drive very sedately and conservitively, everyday, no sudden jabs or take-offs, would I get into a conservative map (for the want of a better word) or a slightly 'retarded' set of 'numbers' in my ECU? Is R33 ECU adaptive to the driver's inputs like a Magna Automatic transmission computer, for example? My reasoning for the question?......If I perform an ECU owner re-set (batt. disconnect then brake pedal depress x 10, because some people suggested that this is how its done), then go for a 'spirited' drive, the car gets all touchy and 'ready for anything'. (fast,...so it feels). Conversely, if I drive to work and back for a few days, and on the friday nite I want to 'give it some', then it just doesn't seem to have that 'responsiveness' to it. It also doesn't 'climb' to redline as quick as it could/should. But that same night, after some more 'spirited' driving (eg. brake pads smelling), she'll come back and feel 'kick-ass' again.(?) I don't want this thread to become a discussion on the petrol I use, or the condition of my plugs, IC clamps, oil and air filter......please consider everything else on my car to be as good as yours, for example!! Let's talk just about my 'theory' and if it's crap or not...Or am I just 'over-estimating' the std ECU? Can't wait for responses...!! anyways............... thanx Skliner's, SuperSpit Mark. :looney:

Hey FaztR33, could u PM me, i'm really looking for a local seller, but, .....if the price is right.....? thanx mate!! :thankyou:

why doesn't someone just suggest to 'adam1982' that he's money could be better spent? (especially on a stock car!!) Yo, adam1982, your current BOV is leaking very badly, isn't it?

R33 rich issues!!.........this is so true!! :goddam:

On the above basis, dmx, do not purchase an 33 for 'your' price. R33 is a most reliable 'sports' car, but not down at the price levels you are talking of. Not being smart here my friend, but if you're worried about fuel consumption per 100k's, well then...just wait till you buy one.(R33) In my experience (I imported my 33 for $20K all up), $18K (I'm in Melb) will buy you a clean example with 75 to 85K on the clock. (ofcourse, any car can be a lemon,but at least if the seller has the guts to poster an R33 at this price then there's a good chance of the car being better than cheaper unit). Now then, let's talk about that insurance.......................... Buy yourself an SR20, fitted in any jap car, ($6-8500K), and still ace!! ps...if u need the manual, I'll send u one....if u go R33!!

10 mins in....10 mins out.......fark!!! I must be a slow-ass!!!

Cathie's lane,Wantirna. I lived there for 20 years!!! hey Foznice, you'll be fine. We are your 'family' as well. And we'll back you up. I've been driving for 19 years, and this 5hit still can happen!! Stay cool, and accept that our community contains 'all-sorts'!!! Mark. I'll see you down there some day.!!

Ok, mmmm. Thanks R09 2 points here......I don't think readers of these threads are actually READING THE THREADS!! I have no interest in iridium plugs, and wanted to discuss platinums and copper only. (otherwise too many variables and B/S) RONIN09:PS if you have to take them out to clean every 6 months, that defeats the purpose of 'long life' plugs... and even then it takes 10 mins to take out the plugs Yes, I was suggesting this very point, but as a very smart previous reader implied....,"fouling of plugs can occurr on any type of plug, especially when we run our cars with extra boost, and especially when running richer". (not quoted word 4 word). The compression seal is a good point, but I feel you've made a B/S point....10 minutes to take out the plugs????? Are you sure we're talking turbo Skylines here??? So the way I understand it is...........It makes no difference on whether you run platinum or copper plugs etc in your slightly/highly modified TurboCharged car, other than the outlay of cash at the initial point of purchase, as all plugs eventually foul at some time in there life, and must be cleaned/replaced at certain intervals to maintane your Turbo vehicle's 'high performance'. Anyways........thanx 4 your input, always appreciated. Mark

ah yes, it's making sense now. Ta Duncan. I suppose, (and pls correct me if i'm wrong), that I have one saving grace with the Platinums..... I can clean them, and then put them back in.??? They are still in a better condition than coppers, physically, after 6 months??? An answer to this will get everything straightened out in my head!!

Now, that's what I'm talkin' 'bout!! I was told that Platinums would go 100,000 km's. Obviously that's crap!! So on your logic, yes, I'd agree completly!!

mmmmm....so why are there these 'long-life' plugs. If you have to clean/replace them 6 months plus..........is it a 'false economy'. As I said prior, I thought I'd be doing myself a favour by not having to replace the plugs as often (no where near as often), for cleaning or replacement. I know that this could be considered 'kindy' stuff,.... but crickey!! Can plug 'fouling' reduce performance at higher RPM? Therefore if people like to 'boost up' there cars a little bit, they have to be prepared to do this kind of stuff more often, regardless of money spent on plugs? Just looking for 'chains of thought' here.

That's a very 'cheap' alternative V. I take it that these are copper plugs, not too disimilar to the ones used in my Victa? Thanks V, but i've not got the time to play "Let's remove all the Induction gear to change the plugs" game too often!! I guess I see your point though. I guess that I'm trying to ascertain if expensive plugs really are just a waste of time/money. If you've gotta clean them every 6 months, I may as well go to copper?? (as you maybe impyling?) Ta.

Hey Skliner's, I guess that simple questions that are simply answered are best...... Allow me to create a sceneario!! Let's say we've got those fancy $25.00 platinum (no, not Irridium) plugs installed, now let's say you've had them in your Line for 7 months...let's us say that you have only ever use 'exponsomax' fuels since you've had the Line, and you are running a higher boost than std (11-12 pissants). Let us say that you need to wash your car every weekend just to remove the constant 'black-soot' around your rear bumper. Let's suggest that you're also running rich (black soot plus "POP-POP" on de-accel). Let's say Line starts beautifully, within a second (hot or cold). No missing!! Let's suggest that the Line's plugs, as expensive as they are (God bless 'em), are beginning to foul, and some performance could be 'reclaimed' by cleaning them? Any suggestions on the above Hypo? Your SUGGESTIONS/Thoughts. I thank you in advance, Mark :looney:

yep, u r right...I'm often in my head. But I figure that if u can buy a particular petrol that makes ur car go 'ping', and u can hear it, then u should be able to buy a particular petrol that makes your car go 'bang', and you should 'feel' it. ...........anyways. Thanx, Mark

Hey JOEL, do you reckon Ulticrap goes "as hard" as the expensomax? (acceleration, etc)

mmmm GTS-t....mmmmmmmmm Characteristics??.....mmmmmm? 98 ron petrol, Motul Oil(the expensive one!!), Any ECU that works for you!!, Expensomax/Ulticrap petrols. Use medium to high quality filters for petrol and oil (depends on how often you'll change them and money u have at the time of purchase!!) Why ECU, there's heaps of easier 5hit you can do before u need to consider a 'puter!! (that is the beauty of these machines!!) Get the induction/zorst opened up a tad, then take it from there (?) And .............WELCOME!!!! (UNLESS OFCOURSE, YOU'RE ALREADY A SKLINER!!)

yeah, I've never owned a car that's as fussy as the Line, when it comes to fuel!!! One fill....ace, the next?.....you'd think you were running on lemonade!! BTW..I use expensomax, and even though I use the one brand only, I swear the petrol differs from station to station!!(?). I Might go try that Ulticrap stuff, everyones talkin' 'bout it!! Mark

Ok, this thread's responses have taught me a couple of things! Std ECU does run rich, naturally, especially with increased boost. Therefore, I'd have to replace ECU to fix this issue, properly. Just 1 degree advance in timing vastly improves the 2-3rd gear acceleration. (doesn't 'bog-down' like before, as much) Just a degree or 2 more can add even more performance, and a nice 'rattle' sound. (don't worry Cam and DFTR33, I didn't lunch the motor, thankyou!!) So I'm at apprx 1 degree advance from 'base-time', and I'm happy with that, cost me nothing to do, and it 'seems' quite safe. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Now, should I spend money on......WOLF 3D ECU, SAFC (add-on ?), or front mount IC. I'm in Melbourne, which of these are ILLEGAL, and if they are, can I get an 'engineer's certificate' to stay safe? Thankyou.

wow, these things sound wicked, does a WOLF 3D do the same thing? Does SAFC replace completely ur std computer, or do they 'add-in'. Are they legal. Mark

PLEASE, check your Inlet pipe clamps, make sure they'r tight (or not popped off!) Go from Intercooler (may have to remove air filter) to your inlet plenmn, (Like J33 was saying check your pressure fittings) Your issue sounds exactly like the one I had!!! Found loose plenumn pipe, re-tightened, and woooah! SHE'S BAA---ACK! Mark

Hey Cam, yeah, I just read DRFTR33 latest and yours, interesting stuff. I couldn't actually do anything last nite cause I couldn't even get my CAS to budge (I was probably being 'over-careful', I'm not exactly weak!!). So yeah, tonite I'll use a little more force, and give it a little twist, then monitor what's going on. My car is modded quite extensively, the only thing I had to lose was the boost controler, police didn't like it in one of my many 'pull-overs!!' Got POD, 4inch stainless zorst, highflow cat, about $4000 in racing suspension......and the standard ECU (which I must keep!!!). I trust u guys, and I'm gunna do it then let u know what I find!! Thanx Guys, Mark.

Hey! I tried earlier tonite to adjust the cas (loosened the 3 bolts), as per what I'd said I would do earlier in this thread, and......I couldn't even budge it!! I was very cautious about the whole attempt, but the best I could manage, without the fear of breaking something) was a little forward movement ie.1-2 mm, but no rotational movement!! I didn't want tobang it or anything, so I left it (did it bck up).. Also Skliner's, I was told just before by some other experienced GTR/GTSt owner's that, quote...."it is a ridiculous concept that u'd want to advance timing when upping boost, it should be retarded if anything, and it won't even fix the over rich state u r presently in!!"..unquote. I understand the mixture part not being assisted (Band-aided maybe?) CONFUSED i am!! I am now thinking that it would be too good to be true, that some simple and safely done 'advancement' would overcome my present issues (lack of pull in higher gears, ace down low)....could someone please explain to me the basic concept of advancing/retarding the ignition in my car, for my particular issue(arguement FOR and AGAINST type thing?..anyways.. Thanx Skliner's, (DRFTR33, Cam etc...come back if u can?) Mark

good price there, thanx Robo's.