30ONA

Wheels pics please.

Sorted now.

URGENT. Please help need 1.3bar or 137kpa radiator cap My cap needs replacing and I can't find any suppliers locally. Can anyone in Brisbane lend me or sell me a cap till I can get a new one in two weeks? My car is disabled. I've tried nissan, repco bursons supercrap

OEM Oil pump to suit vq35hr & vq37vhr I bought this oil pump from Concept Z in the US, it is surplus to my requirements. Brand new and not installed. Still in box. Can ship at owners expense. $340 AUD new plus postage (About double that from Nissan Australia). Asking $250+ postage (you save hundreds). Buyer beware check part number suits your vehicle. Part number: 15010-jk20d This is the part: https://conceptzperformance.com/infiniti-oem-15010-jk20d-oil-pump-vq35hr-vq37vhr-infiniti-g35-07-08-g37-09-14-q40-2015-sedan-v36-g37-08-13-q60-14-15-coupe-cv36_p_19383.php

Can't go wrong with Rollin or Gavin Wood. Gavin used to have a stagea as his daily. I take my V36 to him from Brisbane. I don't trust anyone else.

V36 Nissan Datascan III for android $10 Jaycar dongle OBD2 $70. (this was after I wasted money on 3 ebay dongles.)

Can you please PM or post picks of the wheels. Any rash? What offsets are they?

The 300zx tt has a warning light. Im wondering if there is something wrong with one of my cat converters. One of the post cat sensors is not functioning the same as the other. They are both brand new and still the same reading. One side fluctuates as a functioning sensor should. The other side barely ever moves.

I have noticed my dash doesn't have a cat temperature warning light when I put the ignition on. Does the V36 have a cat over temp warning light? Or does the engine light come on if there is a problem? Also if the cat is bocked and/or overheating will an error code show up?

I've cleaned the air filters and TB's before taking these readings.

P0021 is back. Bank two tps air flow and wb sensor all higher than bank 1. What is the closed tps voltage supposed to be? I'm summising b2 tps is high.

Just realised I can't swap them as the B1 sensor has the intake temperature sensor and the ECU won't know what temps to use if the harness only reads from the B1 side. I really don't know where to go now but I still don't have any codes since cleaning the air filters and tightening the intake pipes. I might leave it alone now.

Here is the two MAF sensors compared. B2 reading slightly lower all of the time. Does lower voltage equates to more or less air/fuel? I've going to swap the MAF sensors and see if all the readings swap over to B1. These online conversion programs do weird things to the pdf file.

Yes B2 WB is higher. If I pressurise the intake to look for leaks wat is a safe pressure? 10psi? I read somewhere once that disconnecting the MAF resulted in a trip to Nissan to fix/reset. I can't remember why.

I've attached the graph you requested and a few more. Haven't got the error since tightening the TB pipe and cleaning the air filters. Coincidence? Bank 2 post cat still looks strange to me. For some reason when converting the graphs to JPG they cut the edges off. Exhaust sensors bank 2 only Dark blue WB B2 Light blue NB B2 All exhaust sensors Yellow NB B1 Light blue NB B2 Green WB B1 Dark blue WB B2 Post cat sensors bank 1 vs 2 Yellow NB B1 Blue NB B2

This morning it thre both P0011 and P0021. So I checked the solenoids according tot he workshop manual and could not produce the DTC's. The colenoids look clean and are at correct resistance. I did check for loose bolts whilst under the hood and the intake clamps on B2 were quite loose at the TB. I've set up the data scan for a more suitable set of co-ords then I'll go for a run. No codes when revving stationary at running temps. Must only happen under load.

I'll do it tomorrow. Data wasn't recording WB at the time.

Blue Bank 1 Orange Bank 2

No CEL before or after. I know how they are supposed to work and I understand they are independent. What I meant was that they vary like the pre-cat ones but should still vary from 0-1V continuously, not stay in one spot as bank 2 is doing. If you look at this graph you can see bank 2 is not working properly. After the new sensors I'm still getting the same reading. So perhaps something else is wrong back towards the engine, or a problem with the connection between the sensor and ECU?

So i had a post cat sensor on bank 2 giving very slow readings compared to bank 1. Had both replaced and no changes. Except now i have a bank 2 intake error code P0021 as well. Are they linked? Why has the new sensor not worked? Help please. Next step is to check the intake solenoid resistance and cleanliness. But what if the narrow band sensor?

Well for anyone following two things have come from this noise. 1. The noise was from resonance and a rattle caused by a worn top radiator rubber mount. 2. Analysing all the data to try and find the noise I found out I have a veeerrry lazy narrow band sensor on one side.

Sorry for no reply about the Bluetooth. Yes I have the same one.

I've graphed a log file of me driving round local streets. The WB sensors seem to nearly match each other all the time. The NB sensors seem to match most of the time but there are periods where there is 0.6volts difference between one bank and the other. I'm really puzzled as to what is causing this 'pinging', and I don;t have the understanding to asses the data. Can someone help? Can ?I send someone a log file? Or do I take it to a dyno?

I got the bluetooth from Jaycar, just ask for OBD11 bluetooth adapter and try before you buy. A bit expensive but after buying three online for $12 each $75 would not have been so bad if I went straight there.

So I get good fluctuation on the WB and no movement on the NB. The NB sits at about 0.27/0.26 at idle. No change when revving. Took it for a drive and when I got back at some point the NB had changed to about 0.1/0.12. Are my NB sensors playing up they don't fluctuate, we no where near the amount the WD fluctuates?