Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've never seen a GTS with an oversized cooler loose any thing

over a STD core, but as the turbo is usually changed at some

stage a big core is the best option,The GTSt I posted earlyer

has a 700HP core and is better everyware, not saying the car

would not have been better with a 400hp core, just look

at the future plan.

  • Replies 130
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There are a number of people who have experienced a notable drop in response , even though they pick up horsepower, by fitting overly large intercoolers to stock turbos. Not everything performance wise is there on show on the dyno printout, unless your goal is to win dyno shootouts I would not take them as gospel.

Assuming you do plan to move on to bigger things later fitting a 700HP cooler for a planned output less than 700HP is pretty dumb in hindsight.

Looking at the future plan is all fine and dandy but, c'mon most of these guys still could have 'aimed' at some power figure. As they say ' aim at nothing and you hit it every time'.

Steve, I think you'd agree with me on the idea that a 44gal drum takes longer to fill than a 2L icecream container.

At some point an oversized intercooler loses the race against time to fill the volume in between the turbo and the plenum. The rpm for full boost is the same (therfore no lag, cause the turbo spools at the same engine speed). However the 'time' to achieve engine speed (which is greatly assisted by being on boost) is affected by the larger volmue and distance required by the oversized intercooler.

The stock intercooler is not real flash, even for the stock turbo, but if you are going to spend the best part of $2k on a replacement make damn well sure its the right size.

As you mentioned before the person with the 700HP intercooler would have been better off with the 400HP unit (if thats his eventual target). Maybe the 400HP unit was cheaper as well?

At the end of the day $2k spent on a 700HP intercooler(with std turbo) will put your car firmly in my rear vision mirror, with my poxy standard intercooler, over a 1/4mile, when our cars have the same mods. Get a 300HP unit plumbed up right and it is a different story.

Just want people to think about how important the size matching idea is.

Agree about the BOV too Steve.

BTW mate do you know the flow on the standard unported RB25DET head?

shuto-boy,

a BOV is a BOV, it's just that the factory one is quite good. I don't think an aftermarket one can't work as well fullstop. It's just that it seems difficult to do so (or selction of brand plays a part). If you like the noise thats what you have to do anyway I guess.

got it rev,thanks.Vspec,ure kidding right?how can anyone in the right mind produce that.Must be hot in the usa,they got lots of wierd stuff there.

Right now i got a 12 psi stock turbo+Fmic,going to change ecu soon,ill post some results

13.6

-outlaw racing team-

hate drugs,love racing

Steve,

It makes sense, the factory one has a small air bleed (hole on the underside) people mistake for the factory BOV not holding boost at light cruise due to it being so-called 'too lightly sprung for high boost apps'.

There is someone with a thread about blocking the hole off on the performance section!

rev, piss-off bitch. I'm not a ricer, the sticker are to add power, and the wing to keep my ass on the ground:lol:

I have already replaced the stock BOV, and don't have any issue with my aftermarket one, so I'll keep is, besides I love the sound:P

See'ya:burnout:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...