Jump to content
SAU Community

My First Skyline's guide to changing your oil and oil filter in an R33.


Recommended Posts

Me saying thanks too! Just changed my oil and filter today and this thread certainly helped me do it without a fuss.

Oil: Martini 10W40 synthetic 5L $20.90 from :)

Filter: Valvoline z145a $7.67 from k-mart

Oil Change Pan: $6.49 from k-mart

J/Grip Oil wrench: $5.09 from k-mart ~ didnt end up using it

Total cost of job = $40.15c :)

Funny thing was the filter I pulled off [jap brand] was smaller than the z145a - weird, anything to be concenred about? I have assumed that the 34 uses the same as 33 so either the wrong one was on there OR the wrong one is NOW on there? HELP! Doesnt seem to be any leaks though.

Also, guys dont forget to record on paper your odometer kms and the date you changed the oil / filter ~ this will be valuable info for the next one - sounds obvious but its easy to forget. Valvoline filter box has a tear off card specifically for this.

Cheers.

I wouldn't be worried about the actual size of the filter, although I guess bigger would be better... as long as it fits the socket.

Good advice about the odometer information... I forgot to mention as I did mine right on the 100,000km mark, so I can just do it ever 5k kms... in fact, it's due right now. :)

I spoke to a guy from Nissan spare parts who confirmed the Z145a is ok for my car too :P It fits perfectly and doesnt seem to be any leaks since fitting yesterday.

I should also add the change pan I bought holds up to 8 litres and has a post to drain the filter plus room to hold some tools and the sump bolt ~ handy! Mine actually spat out 5 Litres of oil, perhaps it was overfilled or just a bit bigger than 33 capacity..

My sump bolt must have been fastened by Arnie Schwarzinator - damn it was tight!

  • 1 month later...
Guest jamesr33

Hi Fellas,

Im just about to change my oil to mobil1 synthetic, i have only had the car (r33) for a couple of weeks and cant be sure what type of oil it is currently using. (synth i hope) but i will have to assume its not. ive heard some nasty stories obout leaving traces of the old non-synth oil in will cause it to crystallize.

My question is whats the best technique for making sure the old non-synth oil is completely flushed out....? i have some oil flushing addatives that you add to oil, run engine for 10 mins then flush out. is this enough..?

Well, you can change oil and filter, drive around for a week, with the flushing stuff, then change it again... or just keep pouring 5l of oil through the engine for 2 hours. :(

  • 1 month later...

Well, it's not *hard*, but if you've never done it before, you'll need some assistance. It's not just a case of taking off the wheels, undoing some nuts and yanking them out.

some of you guys should be shot

1 DO NOT EVER AND I MEAN EVER OVERFILL YOUR CAR WITH OIL

your pistons dip in and the engine gets too compressed and blows all the seals

2 only use a synth or semi synth oil factory is 7.5/30 so a 10/40 will be perfect

3 only replace the sump plug if u really need to

4 you dont need to jack the car up :D

5 the r32 rb20det takes 4ltrs or 4.2ltrs with a new filter

6 always check ya fluid levels every week or 2 otherwise your engine is toast if something gos wrong

7 if u dont know what your doing and u hardly know how to do an oil change then get a workshop manual or TAKE IT TO A MECHANIC

8 when u get a new car change the oil ASAP because mechanics put in cheapo 20w50 valvoline xld mineral oil and it makes the car run like a pig (trust me)

9 change all fluids anyway because they either have never been changed or u dont know when they were changed last because with my car

as soon as i got it i changed oil/diff oil/coolant

and i will do the auto tranny fluid at 100thou as it sposedly NEVER needs changing and ill do the brake fluid soon

the oil ive used so far is

motor = 10w40 pennzoil semi synth and now 10-30 shell helix eco10

diff = castrol lsx90 (best mineral oil just change it every 20thou and its as good as a synth)

coolant = tecalloy gold

auto tranny = will be nissan d matic because all oil manufacturers state that to be used

brakes = some dot4/dot5 oil its all the same basicall shell/castrol/mobil

as i said at the start

some of u should be shot for neglecting your car like this!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...