Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26: Noise Made When The Car Sees Boost!

Turbz_13

By Turbz_13,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

PHATR32 Grand Master

PHATR32

Posted
Posted
i am quiet happy to have to replace the inturnals if i have to and to spend 10-15k on it. but

i cannot afford to drive the car 100km+ to have it checked out then 100km+ back home....that would mean taking time off work.

mate on the one hand you say you can spend 10-15K on a rebuild, yet you cant 'afford' to drive it 100kms? or tow it? weird.

read the bold!

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
read the bold!

thanks for that advice. i read what he wrote. perhaps the 60 seconds or so requried to call a tow truck could be squeezed into his high powered schedule?

anyway, none of it makes sense to me. you've got $15K for a rebuil but wont spend $300 to get it to the workshop to find out if it's ok or not? or even better find a closer shop (if there is one).

Turbz_13 Experienced

Turbz_13

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

not bottom end...still a noise but made somewhere else.

a bottom end is consistant, this seems not too be consistant, as when i was driving i got 60-70kms without any noise, then all of a sudden it started, pulled over and my speed dropped then it went normal for a few seconds. decided to pull over so i pulled called my friend and was thinking to myself"oh no" left it for a bit until my mate got there started it up and it had stopped, then went got a drink came back started it and the noise just started again. went up the road to friends house. check a few things. start ity again no noise...leave it for a while longer then decide to head home. started the car and it was there again, driving back it cut in and out 2 or three times(cutting back to normal)

i have a good idea what it is...not goin to cost anywhere near 10k

Edited by Turbz_13
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted
not bottom end...still a noise but made somewhere else.

Im going for bottom end... it just isnt too bad yet :) Theres a thread on here recently of someone whos car was driven with a stuffed bearing, check it out. Specifically looks at the pictures for the end result ;)

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

My oldschool R31 with a redtop rb20 in it had a similar problem only slightly more advanced.

If you held the revs at about 2.5k you would get a metallic banging (not quite as deep as knocking noise) anyway it was consistant and definately bearings. When the motor was reved out (shit motor didnt care if it exploded) sometimes it would make the noise others it wouldnt. Car was also really down on power sometimes others fine.

But the noise is exactly the same as you describe it. SERIOUSLY STOP f**kING DRIVING IT!

Change your oil filter and pour the oil out on some paper in the sun and I bet you will see silver sparkles from the shagged bearings in it. If you insist on driving it put some thicker oil in it.

Turbz_13 Experienced

Turbz_13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i found out exactly what it is now

to day i took the coil cover off(when the car was runn ing normally again) what it was running and i removed a lead that connected to the 1st coil pack and walla!! started to run like shit. huff and puffing, vibrating! sitting in the car it almost sounds like a knock but out side of the car it sounds like a WRX...so i having problems with coil pack or the wirinig somewhere.

very similar to the discription on a bottom end going! trick me and a few otha people.

from the start the noise i discribe was a more of a muffled knocking...like wood on metal, not really metallic.

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted
i found out exactly what it is now

to day i took the coil cover off(when the car was runn ing normally again) what it was running and i removed a lead that connected to the 1st coil pack and walla!! started to run like shit. huff and puffing, vibrating! sitting in the car it almost sounds like a knock but out side of the car it sounds like a WRX...so i having problems with coil pack or the wirinig somewhere.

very similar to the discription on a bottom end going! trick me and a few otha people.

from the start the noise i discribe was a more of a muffled knocking...like wood on metal, not really metallic.

Of course if you remove the electricity supply from the coil pack its not going to run properly, it means one cylinder isnt firing.

If you think thats it, when the car is running like crap disconnect coil packs one at a time. If when you disconnect each one the car runs worse, its nothing to do with ignition. If you disconnect one and theres no change in the car, then thats your problem.

Turbz_13 Experienced

Turbz_13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

dropped and checked the oil 2day...as 1 of u guys said. and checked NO metallic at all!!! check it rather thorough. i had 2 other people checking as well, 1 was a desiel mechanic. and we couldnt see any metallic at all!! thats seems like a good thing to me!!!

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Erelyes
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Erelyes · Posted

      Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • GTSBoy
      RB25 Drama's

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 Aftermarket Fuel Pump

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Julsmadrid
      RB25 Drama's

      By Julsmadrid · Posted

      Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...