Jump to content
SAU Community

New Alarm


blind_elk
 Share

Recommended Posts

Just had a new alarm installed. It has engine and fuel immobilisers.

My old alarm, the immobiliser wouldn't activate unless the key was removed from the ignition. If the immobiliser had activated, all I had to do was press one of the buttons, even with ignition in ON position, the immobiliser would deactivate, and I could start the engine.

This new one - it activates about 30 sec after the engine is turned off. Even if I leave the keys in the ignition, the immobiliser will eventually activate. Then I have to activate the alarm (locks doors) then de-activate it before I can start the engine.

This means that even for something simple like buying fuel, to leave the servo I need to lock myself in the car, then unlock the car before I can start the engine. And the ignition cannot be ON to do this - it has to be in the ACC position.

This seems damn stupid - is it supposed to be like this? Does anyone else have an alarm that works like this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Greg,

Theres usually small switches on the alarms control unit that give you control of these sort of features. Other than that some alarms can be adjusted by holding down the remote buttons in certain sequences.

Did it come with a instruction manual?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The guy that installed it (at my "tame" Autobarn) reckons that's the way they all work now.

Didn't get a manual, but will ask next time I see them (need to pick up my new DBA4000 rears). Must find out the brand while I'm about it.

With the old one, as I said, I could hit either of the buttons, even when IGN = ON and disable the immobiliser. Really seems stupid to have to lock yourself in the car first, just because you stopped the engine for a minute to do something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so what's stopping you from going back to accessories and hitting any button? You shouldn't need to arm it to disarm it.

My alarm will let me disarm in acc or ON...

turn car off, leave keys or take them with me, fill up, pay, open door, key into ignition, turn to ON, press remote button to disarm immobiliser and give me ignition, start car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My Mongoose alarm works in the same fashion too RANDY. However if I turn my ignition to ON while my alarm is armed, then it chirps continuously until i either disarm it, or turn back to ACC.

Blind: I know that if my car arms itself, then I still have to disarm it before I can drive away, as all it has done is armed the immobiliser and not the whole alarm. But I have never heard of an alarm that makes you arm it, even after it has armed itself, then disarm it.

- Crimpage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so what's stopping you from going back to accessories and hitting any button? You shouldn't need to arm it to disarm it.
But that's what I have to do. I have to literally lock myself IN the car, then unlock before I can start the engine.
My alarm will let me disarm in acc or ON...
As did my previous alarm. With this new one, I need to do it with IGN = ACC - cannot do it with IGN = ON.
turn car off, leave keys or take them with me, fill up, pay, open door, key into ignition, turn to ON, press remote button to disarm immobiliser and give me ignition, start car.

My old alarm only activated the immobiliser once I had removed the keys from the ignition (as does yours). This one activates once the engine has stopped. The keys can still be in the ignition (like when I'm waiting outside a shop while my passenger goes in for something), and the immobiliser will activate 30 seconds after the engine is stopped.
My Mongoose alarm works in the same fashion too RANDY. However if I turn my ignition to ON while my alarm is armed, then it chirps continuously until i either disarm it, or turn back to ACC.
Let me clarify - I'm only complaining about the immobiliser here - if the alarm is on, then the doors are locked, and I can't get in the car anyway.

I could do this with the previous alarm, too. If the immobiliser had activated, and I tried to start the engine, then the siren will beep - I simply press one of the buttons (IGN still ON), then the immobiliser is de-activated, and I can start the engine.

But I have never heard of an alarm that makes you arm it, even after it has armed itself, then disarm it.
It needs to be FULLY armed ie doors locked, then disarmed before the car will start after the immobiliser has activated. That's the annoying part of it.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

i probably spent a fair bit more on my alarm then most people here...

my immobiliser wont activate until 30 seconds after the turbo timer stops OR 45 seconds after the alarm is armed OR 30 seconds of no activity (ie, jump out of the car with the keys but dont lock the car for any reason)...

the anti hijack subroutine will run everytime the drivers side door is opened and closed... (this is pretty annying, cause if you want to get out for a short while, you have to leave the door open...)

the car will not start, or even notice the key is in the ignition unless the immobiliser has been dissarmed, which is easily done...

plus if any of the many sensors go off, the car will call me and let me know...

what? im not paranoid...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my immobiliser/alarm arm as soon as the car is not running after 40 seconds.. this includes when listening to just the stereo.. which means I have to press the button to disarm it otherwise it goes off when I try to start the car..

personally this isn't really a bad thing.. it means if I leave the car atleast somone can't just get in and start it and drive off (unless it's under 40secs)..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it arms the immobiliser - however the sensor alarm isn't armed until you lock the car..

if I turn the ignition on without disabling the immob. the alarm goes off..

I can sit around do everything I want, listen to stereo, turn lights on.. just not put the car to on..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers, It must be close enough coz I can’t even tell where u painted. Did u do the whole top of the strut tower or just a patch somewhere? 
    • Hey all. Looking for all of the carpeted trunk trim for my 95 GTST coupe. I’m having a hard time finding the pieces I need on US or Japanese sites/auctions and was hoping someone has a clean set stashed away somewhere?
    • New aerial is aerialing well....trips into Goulburn are not losing the ABC classic radio signal Also......I've been procrastinating about wheels for the MX5, the car doesn't need any more tyre, I just "want" different wheels, so I went looking for something that legally fits the new Pilot Sports +1 size 215/45 17 that I'm currently running on the 17x7 OEM wheels (stock size is 205/45 17), not a silver, and not a black, ended up with gloss bronze Konig Dekagrams in 17x8 +40 which fit without the need for rolling the guards, whilst larger than the OEM wheels they are also lighter than the OEM wheels, and at just under $1300 for the set I'm more than happy with the price I seen a set of matt black Deka's on a MX5 when I was at MX5 Mania, same wheel size, same tyre size, sat really nice, and not stretched enough to look aids, although the 215/45 17 is the smallest that you can legally fit Just need to find some good black wheel nuts to suit
    • So I decided that I wasn't happy with how I originally wrapped the loom with fleece tape. I didn't factor in the new intake manifold/plenum so it always sat a bit funny. Yep, I decided to unwrap it and redo how the wires would branch out. Added in a light twist too, here's hoping I didn't snap any 30 year old wiring because FML if I did. Took a few more photos of the shit box too, needed it for Enthusiast Insurance as they wanted photos to justify why my agreed value was above market by a fair amount.
    • if wanting reliability and that level of performance a dry sump is mandatory for circuit stuff as you'll just be filling the head with oil. easy and reliable setup with potential for more later Hypergear bolt on turbo or a g30-660 with T3 rear housing .92 external gate mod to factory exhaust manifold with 45mm waste gate plazmaman/pwr intercooler oil cooler 1200cc injectors 460 TI/walbro with upgrade relay and wiring/pwm control turbosmart fuel reg Link g4x plug in ecu with knock, oil, fuel pressure sensors, 3 port mac valve, DBW conversion Quality clutch kit- NPC is what I've used for a long time READ THE WHOLE OIL CONTROL THREAD Could do major service while there and maybe headgasket, studs and valve springs. as soon as you whack a massive turbo and short runner intake on a street car they are useless and not practical the above will be a fun and reliable 400-430hp on E85 all day with correct maintenance and mechanical sympathy.  
×
×
  • Create New...