Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive read around the forum, and found most of the answers to my questions, apart from a few.

1. How do i check if the car is stolen, from either Aust or Japan? I know about the blue plate, but who can i ring to check and what car info would i need to provide them.

2. Buy from a dealer or private? I'm looking at dealers, but not sure where they are. So far, went to SEI imports in Dandy. Answer through experience please.

3. What about buying one that has yet to be imported, like the ones on Prestige Automotive site.

4. Anything else i should look for?

Thanks in advance

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100729-buying-a-skyline/
Share on other sites

Whats your budget?

If you finances permit, purchase the car locally rather than importing. There are some fantastic bargains to be found from private sellers, however purchasing from a dealer gives you some fallback in case something goes wrong even though this peace of mind comes with a higher price tag.

If your buying a car thats already registered, do a REVS check on the car and have a competant workshop thoroughly inspect the car you want to buy inside and out.

Whats a REVS check? Is it the vicroads check? ie VIN and Rego number?

RACV check good enough? cause i dont want to be paying everytime i see a skyline i like.

Budget: 17k

Edited by N13Astra
lol thats what i rememba u can c dat my memorys not da gud

lol

thanx 4 the correction

yeh dawg and yo engrish aint good either yo.

REVS check will tell you if any money is owed on the car etc.

Buying ones from like prestige etc can be a long process, might find it may be a bit cheaper than buying locally or via a dealer, BUT it may also be a bit more expensive depending on what car you buy etc.

So how would one go about checking up on a car that is not compiled. Seeing as you cant drive the car to a reputable mechanic? Will a rev's check still be worth while? The car im particularly thinking of is sitting at a Mr Muffler shop, so they may help with a check?

This is for a car that was imported by 'someone' and selling it after getting it compiled and rego'd for the buyer.

  • 2 weeks later...
So how would one go about checking up on a car that is not compiled. Seeing as you cant drive the car to a reputable mechanic? Will a rev's check still be worth while? The car im particularly thinking of is sitting at a Mr Muffler shop, so they may help with a check?

This is for a car that was imported by 'someone' and selling it after getting it compiled and rego'd for the buyer.

Hi, There was a post by merli, in the Tutorials section - (a sticky) - there is some good info on checking the car, if its been stolen and so on. I used that list when I was looking at a couple of skylines today - really worthwhile. The other thing is, Im gonna be using RACV testing as well - just to make sure. But i think if your going through a dealer, ask for all reciepts as well - so you know how much has been spent.

Matt

Alright, seeing as I am in the market for another Skyline, I have been looking up on all this as well... I'll tell you how it goes...

1. REVS Check

When someone takes out a loan for the car, they have the option to get a "secured" loan, which means, if they can't pay the repayments on it, then they give permission for the bank to take and sell the car to get their money back.

So, if they owe money on the car still and sell it to you. Then stop paying their repayments, the bank is well within their rights to come and take your nice new car, and sell it. Leaving you with nothing more than a bank loan... not good.

Requires 2 identifiers. VIN & Rego = easiest.

2. Nissan FAST Software

This can tell you all the specs about the car they way it left the factory. Engine type, Paint colour, interior, options etc... If you notice that it left the factory being gunmetal grey, and its now white... watch out... Basically, use this to make sure everything matches the way it is now, to the way it left the factory.

Now, someone might just not like gunmetal, but it might have also been in a pran and been resprayed, or been resprayed in aus / japan as a "rebirth".

These are the two best things to check... I wouldn't buy a skyline without doing it. Otherwise, there is a great writeup on here about things to check when buying a new skyline... But I can't remember who did it, or where it is :| but wont take long to find / have someone post a link to it :rant:

- Crimpage

Whats a REVS check?  Is it the vicroads check?  ie VIN and Rego number?

RACV check good enough? cause i dont want to be paying everytime i see a skyline i like.

Budget: 17k

as said by others above, it's just a check to make sure the car can't re repossessed because someone owes money on it.

it's free, or $12 if you want a certificate... see here: http://www.revs.nsw.gov.au/

as said by others above, it's just a check to make sure the car can't re repossessed because someone owes money on it.

it's free, or $12 if you want a certificate... see here: http://www.revs.nsw.gov.au/

umm no. its free to check, but to have protection against repo u need to purchase the certificate the day before u buy the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, you're wrong, and you've always been wrong about this. The Nismo has 2 sets of openings. One is a real 2-way, and the other is a 1-way. There is no 1.5-way possible with the ramps that they offer. A real 1.5-way does exist. That Cusco stuff I posted is a prime example. If the forward drive ramps are, say 55°, and the overrun ramps are, say, 30°, then you will get about half as much LSD effect on overrun than you do on drive. It is real, it realy works. OK, you're slightly right. The Nismo has 55° and 45° ramps on the 2-way, so it does offer less LSD effect on overrun. But, I think that just means that they've (probably) sensibly established that you do not want actually equal LSD effect on overrun. You just want "quite a lot, but not quite as much as the drive LSD effect".
    • Just wanted to unearth this and post my baby with the new front ❤️😝 Took her to my wedding rehearsal today. Next up is getting wide skirts (after wedding)
    • Yea, that is what I was getting at in my ramblings too. The nismo one actually is a 1.5 way and a 1 way. They don't do a *2* way because a true *2* way would have equal ramp angles. Or is that a true 1.5 way? Realistically I think a "1.5 way" does not actually exist. A diff can either lock in two directions or one. It also doesn't help that a LOT of people in Australia speak about 1.5 way diffs are referring to their 1 way diff.
    • Well, the trouble with that ^^ is: The configuration shown is absolutely a 1-way, not a 1.5-way. There is no way that a 1.5-way can be said to offer LSD action only on acceleration. If Nismo cannot get that right, then it is impossible to believe their documentation. That ^ is not a 1.5 way setup. That is a 1-way.   And so now I have allowed all doubts to flourish and have gone back to look at the MotoIQ video. I originally made the mistake of believing him when he said "this is a 1.5-way" at the ~6:10 mark. Because what he did was take the gear assembly out of the 2-way opening and just rotate it one place to the left to drop it into the 1-way opening. When he dropped it in there, the cam was "backwards" compared to the correct orientation shown in all other photos of that config. The flat shold have been facing the 1° ramp side of the opening, not the 55° ramp side. And I thought, "gee that's cute", but I was concerned at the time, when he put the other ring back on, that the gap between the rings looked like it was wider then in the 2-way config. And then I said a lot of things in my long post on Tuesday that could only make sense if the guy from MotoIQ was correct about what he'd done. BUT... I have now done my homework. I grabbed a frame of the video with the 2-way config, and then grabbed another with the "1.5-way" config, snipped out the cam and opening of that frame and just pasted it direct on top of the 2-way config. I scaled it so that the triangular opening was almost exactly the same height in both. AND.... the gap between the plates is wider with the cam installed in the triangualr opening backwards. That is.... it cannot go together that way. There would be massive force on the plates all the time, if you could even reassemble it.  So, My statement on the matter? The Nismo diff is actually only a 2-way and 1-way. There is no 1.5-way option in it, regardless of what they say. Here's a photo of a real 1.5-way ramp opening from Cusco (along with the 1 way option). And the full set of 1 through 2 way options from their racing diff, which is not same-same as what we'd typically be using, but...the cams work the same. A little blurry, but it comes from this Cusco doc, which is quite helpful. AND.... Cusco do in fact do what I suggested would be sensible, which is to have rings that do 1 and 1.5, and 1.5 and 2. Separately.  
×
×
  • Create New...