central locking probs

[predator]

My central locking thing has stopped unlocking via my remote. For some reason its locking as usual, but the unlocking part is not working and i'm having to resort to what's called a door key (erk)Its a Hornet alarm/immoboliser unit. Was all working fine until about a week ago.

Is there a separate motor thing that unlocks as opposed to locking that could be dud'ded? Could it be a simple thing such as blown fuse?

I really should just pull the door apart, but just thought I'd ask before I did, 'cause that will probably be a right pain in the butt.

[Henros]

There is only one door lock actuator. Unlocking is achieved by simply reversing the polarity of the power going into motor as compared to locking. Therefore, the fact that you can still lock means the motor is ok. Your problem is either with the alarm, ie. no unlock signal going into the central locking controller, or one of the relays in the central locking controller itself. You should also check that all the wirings are ok.

[predator]

Is the central locking controller in the door?

The rest of the unit/alarm beeper is in the engine bay. Looks like I'm going to have to get the multimeter out. Thanx for the info.

[Henros]

Unfortunately, I don't know where the factory central locking controller is (near passenger side kick panel maybe?), as I put in an additional controller (2 relays) when I installed my driver side door lock actuator along with the alarm. Someone here must know. Since your alarm module is in the engine bay, maybe the heat has something to do with it. Check for dry solder joints. Good luck.

[blind_elk]

I think you will find that the actuator from the alarm has come loose on the existing door-lock.

The solenoid piggybacks the central locking, and is held in place by a grub screw. The screw loosens and allows the alarm solenoid to slide independent of the central locking.

Pull the door panel off, reposition the solenoid connection and tighten the grub screw. All fixed ;-)

[predator]

I think you will find that the actuator from the alarm has come loose on the existing door-lock.

That could quite be it... Just before it stopped working, it was unlocking, but wasn't unlatching the door fully, so i had to pull it open over the catch which I knew wasn't a good thing. So that could well explain it coming lose. A day or two after that it stopped working.

Thanks elk and henros, I'll let you know how I go in the next day or two when I get the door apart.

[SupaFly Skyline]

my car did that just recently, but it fully seized, and i had to "break" into it and pull the door apart, in the end there were two bits of metal in the locking part that were rubbing and they werent supposed to so i took a spring out and fixed it dodgy style, but it works good

[predator]

Operation complete success!

Turned out the locking actuator (what is really just a motor which pushes or pulls a rod which locks or unlocks the catch) had slide back like you said blind_elk. Therefore it wasn't pushing forward enough to unlock.

There are a few screws that allow it to slide back and foward to adjust, and obvious during heat, moving, whatever they slid back. So slid the thing back forward again 'till it was doing what it was supposed to do, tightened all the screws again, and bamo, all working again.

Thanx for your help - no more key again..yay

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While I'm here.. for everybody else, how to remove door trim on R33:

1. Open door (dur) and wind window down.

2. Remove screws at bottom of door trim

3. Remove lug at bottom of door handle pull pocket via flat head (on the elec window switches panel).

4. Remove the screw and gently clip out the whole elec window switches panel.

5. Remove the plug to the switches panel

6. Unclip plastic face behind inside handle (where the pull out thing is)...you might need a flat head to lever off There is a screw behind which needs to come off

7. Gently at sides of door trim, lever off edges each side.

8. Pull door trim at bottom up over everything and out

9. Fiddle inside the door to your hearts content.

10. Install new speakers in front door while you're there (standard ones 15W max :lol:

Putting back on is reverse of above.. Although some of the plastic plugs used to secure the trim to the door might have to be pulled out and need to be sat back in the trim before you stick the trim back on (you'll see what i'm talking about once the door is apart).

Its probably easier than it sounds above! Much easier to do than my old cars thats for sure.