Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I know this has been covered before but i cant find the link.

I am trying to find out how to get my r33 GTS-t air con display into diagnostics mode. I need to check the fault codes to find out what is going on with it. Apparently there is a way to switctch the air con display into diagnostic mode where it will then run through diagnostics and tell you if all sensors etc are working.

Anyone got any info?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101827-air-con-diagnostics-for-r33/
Share on other sites

Climate Control Diagnostics R32 and R33

The climate control has a diagnostic mode.

Enter the diagnostic mode by pressing the OFF button for five seconds within ten seconds of turning the ignition on.

Sensor check

Sensor check is selected by pressing HOT switch (the red triangle) while in diagnostic mode. The microcomputer detects whether each sensor input signal is within correct parameters. The results are displayed on the screen.

If normal, a "20" is displayed.

If abnormal the failed sensor number is displayed. The sensor numbers are as follows:

20 - all is normal

21 - outside air sensor

22 - Inside air sensor

23 - Water temperature sensor

24 - Intake temperature sensor

25 - Sunload sensor (small sensor on the left hand side of the dashboard near the windscreen)

26 - PBR

27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor

This should tell you if any of your sensors are faulty.

Mode door position check

(This is probably not the cause of your problems but it is a nifty self check to play with). While in Sensor check, depress the HOT button again. This will operate the the mode door actuator, and checks the whether the position detection switch is operating. Again the results are displayed on the display.

If normal, a "30" is displayed.

If abnormal the number of the faulty mode is displayed as follows:

30: Normal

31: VENT

32: B/L (Bi level)

34: FOOT

35: DEFROST/FOOT

36: DEFROST

Actuator operation check

By pressing the HOT button while in Mode Door Position check, you can actually send a signal to check the operation of the actuator manually. This is a bit complex, and will be expanded upon when a manual can viewed.

Sensor recognition check

Press the HOT switch again and a "5" will be indicated in the display section. If you press the "AMB" button (R32) or the windscreen defroster button (R33) in this status, the display will show the temperature sensed by each sensor. This will give you an indication also of which (if any) are faulty.

Temperatures will be displayed in the following order (R32):

5 -> Outside air temp -> Inside air temp -> Suction temp -> Refrigerant temp

R33 seems to have a different selection, with three temperatures being displayed.

Obviously if any of these temps seem excessively different from actual temperatures you have a problem!

Calibration

If you depress the fan switch during the Sensor Recognition check, you will go to Calibration in which you can set the difference between the indicated temperature and sensed temperature.

While in Calibration press the HOT or COLD buttons to change the display by plus or minus 3 degrees in .5 degree increments (R32) or 1 degree increments (R33).

Hope that helps :P

  • 4 weeks later...

I did the above for a 33 and got fault codes 22 and 25

How do I replace inside air sensor and sunload sensor?

Also, in mode five, I only got two readings 31 and -30 (obviously a problem).

Also, when I went back to step 2, the sensor check, and held the fan switch(like explained to get to calibration) all I got was 22, 25 and then -26. I could access Calibration when in mode 5 (pressing the defrost windscreen button). I wasn't sure how this worked as I could only move the temp from -3 through to +3. Wasn't sure what effect this would have.

The air con itself works fine. My only real world problem is that when I move from 18 to 19 degrees it goes full blast heat.

I imagine fixing these sensors will rectify that.

Where do I start!

Cheers

I did the above for a 33 and got fault codes 22 and 25

How do I replace inside air sensor and sunload sensor?

Sidenote: If your sunload sensor fails, its probably cos your in the SHADE :rolleyes:

Mine failed, then i backed the car out into the sun and it was fine ;)

  • 4 years later...

hey sorry about bringing up such an old post....so recently i noticed my aircon is not cold at all...so i did this diagnostic and the numbers i got is 3,4,41,5 and if i scroll to 5 and press the heat button i can adjust settings from -3,-2,-1,0,1,2,3 so the question is how do i get my air con cold again?

Cheers

Chi

If im not mistaken the piping should come from the passenger side of firewall along the left chassis rail. up to the radiator. the condensor sits infront of the radiator on passenger side. I could be wrong however fairly certain thats were it is.

  • 4 weeks later...

On the drivers side to the upper left of the footrest pedal you will notice a little mechanical box with a plug going into it (has a little cog/gear on it and you can manually turn it with your fingers).

This opens and closes the vents when you switch it. It's that thing.

Edited by PM-R33
On the drivers side to the upper left of the footrest pedal you will notice a little mechanical box with a plug going into it (has a little cog/gear on it and you can manually turn it with your fingers).

This opens and closes the vents when you switch it. It's that thing.

yep i got that and sun sensor. damn car.

anyone got ball park figures for these items?

im assuming the position.

  • 2 weeks later...

On the drivers side to the upper left of the footrest pedal you will notice a little mechanical box with a plug going into it (has a little cog/gear on it and you can manually turn it with your fingers).

This opens and closes the vents when you switch it. It's that thing.

Thanks Phil, i worked it out via google anyway but atleast its in the thread now for future lol.

Magic1 - Was your car in the light for the sun sensor?

And with the PBR, i took it appart and found that it had sparked out somehow and a little tab had bent from this, bent it back, cleaned it up, put everything back and problem solved :thumbsup:

If its broken then you cant break it anymore from trying to fix it, always worth trying before replacing lo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...