Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I know this has been covered before but i cant find the link.

I am trying to find out how to get my r33 GTS-t air con display into diagnostics mode. I need to check the fault codes to find out what is going on with it. Apparently there is a way to switctch the air con display into diagnostic mode where it will then run through diagnostics and tell you if all sensors etc are working.

Anyone got any info?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101827-air-con-diagnostics-for-r33/
Share on other sites

Climate Control Diagnostics R32 and R33

The climate control has a diagnostic mode.

Enter the diagnostic mode by pressing the OFF button for five seconds within ten seconds of turning the ignition on.

Sensor check

Sensor check is selected by pressing HOT switch (the red triangle) while in diagnostic mode. The microcomputer detects whether each sensor input signal is within correct parameters. The results are displayed on the screen.

If normal, a "20" is displayed.

If abnormal the failed sensor number is displayed. The sensor numbers are as follows:

20 - all is normal

21 - outside air sensor

22 - Inside air sensor

23 - Water temperature sensor

24 - Intake temperature sensor

25 - Sunload sensor (small sensor on the left hand side of the dashboard near the windscreen)

26 - PBR

27 - Refrigerant temperature sensor

This should tell you if any of your sensors are faulty.

Mode door position check

(This is probably not the cause of your problems but it is a nifty self check to play with). While in Sensor check, depress the HOT button again. This will operate the the mode door actuator, and checks the whether the position detection switch is operating. Again the results are displayed on the display.

If normal, a "30" is displayed.

If abnormal the number of the faulty mode is displayed as follows:

30: Normal

31: VENT

32: B/L (Bi level)

34: FOOT

35: DEFROST/FOOT

36: DEFROST

Actuator operation check

By pressing the HOT button while in Mode Door Position check, you can actually send a signal to check the operation of the actuator manually. This is a bit complex, and will be expanded upon when a manual can viewed.

Sensor recognition check

Press the HOT switch again and a "5" will be indicated in the display section. If you press the "AMB" button (R32) or the windscreen defroster button (R33) in this status, the display will show the temperature sensed by each sensor. This will give you an indication also of which (if any) are faulty.

Temperatures will be displayed in the following order (R32):

5 -> Outside air temp -> Inside air temp -> Suction temp -> Refrigerant temp

R33 seems to have a different selection, with three temperatures being displayed.

Obviously if any of these temps seem excessively different from actual temperatures you have a problem!

Calibration

If you depress the fan switch during the Sensor Recognition check, you will go to Calibration in which you can set the difference between the indicated temperature and sensed temperature.

While in Calibration press the HOT or COLD buttons to change the display by plus or minus 3 degrees in .5 degree increments (R32) or 1 degree increments (R33).

Hope that helps :P

  • 4 weeks later...

I did the above for a 33 and got fault codes 22 and 25

How do I replace inside air sensor and sunload sensor?

Also, in mode five, I only got two readings 31 and -30 (obviously a problem).

Also, when I went back to step 2, the sensor check, and held the fan switch(like explained to get to calibration) all I got was 22, 25 and then -26. I could access Calibration when in mode 5 (pressing the defrost windscreen button). I wasn't sure how this worked as I could only move the temp from -3 through to +3. Wasn't sure what effect this would have.

The air con itself works fine. My only real world problem is that when I move from 18 to 19 degrees it goes full blast heat.

I imagine fixing these sensors will rectify that.

Where do I start!

Cheers

I did the above for a 33 and got fault codes 22 and 25

How do I replace inside air sensor and sunload sensor?

Sidenote: If your sunload sensor fails, its probably cos your in the SHADE :rolleyes:

Mine failed, then i backed the car out into the sun and it was fine ;)

  • 4 years later...

hey sorry about bringing up such an old post....so recently i noticed my aircon is not cold at all...so i did this diagnostic and the numbers i got is 3,4,41,5 and if i scroll to 5 and press the heat button i can adjust settings from -3,-2,-1,0,1,2,3 so the question is how do i get my air con cold again?

Cheers

Chi

If im not mistaken the piping should come from the passenger side of firewall along the left chassis rail. up to the radiator. the condensor sits infront of the radiator on passenger side. I could be wrong however fairly certain thats were it is.

  • 4 weeks later...

On the drivers side to the upper left of the footrest pedal you will notice a little mechanical box with a plug going into it (has a little cog/gear on it and you can manually turn it with your fingers).

This opens and closes the vents when you switch it. It's that thing.

Edited by PM-R33
On the drivers side to the upper left of the footrest pedal you will notice a little mechanical box with a plug going into it (has a little cog/gear on it and you can manually turn it with your fingers).

This opens and closes the vents when you switch it. It's that thing.

yep i got that and sun sensor. damn car.

anyone got ball park figures for these items?

im assuming the position.

  • 2 weeks later...

On the drivers side to the upper left of the footrest pedal you will notice a little mechanical box with a plug going into it (has a little cog/gear on it and you can manually turn it with your fingers).

This opens and closes the vents when you switch it. It's that thing.

Thanks Phil, i worked it out via google anyway but atleast its in the thread now for future lol.

Magic1 - Was your car in the light for the sun sensor?

And with the PBR, i took it appart and found that it had sparked out somehow and a little tab had bent from this, bent it back, cleaned it up, put everything back and problem solved :thumbsup:

If its broken then you cant break it anymore from trying to fix it, always worth trying before replacing lo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...