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Most times it will boil to you pay for what you get.

Buying a China set of golf clubs is no match for the original.

Its much cheaper and it may look the same but inside theres a vast difference.

For something as cheap as a oil filter why would you bother. On a POS car go for it. on a skyline your mad, keep telling yourself how many 7 dollar filters it costs to replace your engine and its likely not worth it even if it lasts for a couple of years. Its been said above no need to go over it again.

If you really want to save a buck switch from ultimate to premium unleaded and dont thrash your car. It will likely do less damage and you save about 5 bucks a tank.

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I generally just buy genuine Nissan items and for $8.80 why would'nt you...?

I have heard the Ryco ones dont have a Valve to hold oil in the filter when the engines turned off..?

I also read about an oil filter that is Magnatized so as to attract and hold any bits of metal floating around inside the engine, that sounded like a good idea.

The oil filter you choose should always be the correct spec for your car and it's application.

The construction of the valvoline and ryco filters doesn't differ from factory and it's reflected in the price. Nissan $8.80 and ryco <$10 Valvoline normally the same.

Buy a turbo diesel filter for a Pajero and they cost upwards of $50 no matter if it's mitsubishi or ryco. Why? Because Diesel filters have to work far harder than petrol ones. The materials to meet factory spec. (as per the ryco) cost just the same. So do you want to use a diesel filter on your car if it will fit? No. The filter in the diesel does filter far better than the skyline one from nissan but, does so at the cost of oil flow. The diesel's oil system is designed with this in mind the skylines engine is not.

I would be greatly concerned however if the nissan factory filter cost $50 and the ryco was $8. This indicates missing bit's or cheaper materials used.

I did see some time ago a fairly comprehensive test of various filters offered including aftermarket so-called performance ones. Some times ones used just for 'track' or performance will not have the return valve or use a less fine filter material as it limits flow potential. You throw oil and filter away after the meet anyway. The very fine material that does get through may wear slightly more on the bearings over a longer time but, on a race engine that gets new bearings and rings often they don't really care. Ditto with filtration of the air, often they just use a foam sock if they even use anything at all.

While I'm on this point, it's not a bad idea if you have a serious horsepower car to change your diff, gearbox and engine oil straight after a night of drag racing or circuit day. You would not believe how quickly this sort of abuse 'ages' the oil. Under these circumstances throw away the 'change @ 5,000km' idea. Sadly people don't know any better, dispite being fussy about good oil and regular changes.

OMG!!! u guys change yah oil every 5000km, under normal driving conditions this should be under 6 months of driving. if u look lets say inside a nissan oil filter and a cheap $4 one, the differnece is the grills, i found that theres is more openings (for better flow offcourse) see for urself next time in the shops. (maybe different material filter as u go up in the performance filters)

as for all of us here, personaly i think its a waste if u pay anymore than 8 bux, we all use good oils, change them at the correct milage and time soo whats the big deal, its not like we got cats and dogs filtering through our cars. dunno whats the big deal, i never herd of a oil filter responsible for ruining a engine.

If you want u'r car to last, yes we change our oil every 5000 k's or 3 months. no compromise. I drag about every 3 to six months, and if lucky get about 8 runs in. I wouldnt think it would be worth changing oil every time i went down the strip.

If you want u'r car to last, yes we change our oil every 5000 k's or 3 months. no compromise. I drag about every 3 to six months, and if lucky get about 8 runs in. I wouldnt think it would be worth changing oil every time i went down the strip.

You are among the many who don't seem to know 'why' they change oil at 5,000kms.

Under full load the difference in wear compared to everyday driving is massive.

5,000kms is meaningless under 'race' conditions. There are plenty of variables but, one very good rule of thumb CHANGE YOU FRICKEN OIL AFTER RACING.

This goes for your diff and gearbox too under the same rationale.

Extra modifiers for the 5,000km limit include but, are not limited to ;

* dusty environments

* High temperature climates

* Increases in engine power. I find I am changing mine at around 3,000 -at the moment with 370rwhp. Not rocket science that one, however I meet people with more than 400rwhp and still think the factory (270rwhp odd) change intervals are applicable (very sad).

* Increased engine load

* Poor fuel mixtures due to larger profile cams or maps

* fuel type

Thats how you get 250,000kms + out of an original R32 GTR engine, gearbox, transfer case and diff.

Hope that clears things up for you a little.

I still think its quite funny that these people will spend mega bucks getting the best oil (which they don't understand the properties of) but are happy to look into saving a few dollars on an oil filter...

Fully sick bro... :mellow:

I do both I look around for good oil but at a good price, I use a rico filter and seems to be doing fine, ATM im trying Castrol Oil but im thinking about changing that as I have heard some bad reports about the whole magnateck thing so ill be once again looking for another oil, but why not look around for that bargan some of us live our lives on every doller we have, You finally have the car you dreamed about but you still are on the same crappy pay. When I have time in my Busy life ill buy difrent filters and cut them up and have a look but right now who cares because does anybody on the fourms have proof or a dead engine that has been killed from what you would call a crap oil filter?

Edited by 7yphon
I do both I look around for good oil but at a good price, I use a rico filter and seems to be doing fine, ATM im trying Castrol Oil but im thinking about changing that as I have heard some bad reports about the whole magnateck thing so ill be once again looking for another oil, but why not look around for that bargan some of us live our lives on every doller we have, You finally have the car you dreamed about but you still are on the same crappy pay. When I have time in my Busy life ill buy difrent filters and cut them up and have a look but right now who cares because does anybody on the fourms have proof or a dead engine that has been killed from what you would call a crap oil filter?

magnatech oil?

You might be short on cash with the whole performance car thing but, you keep buying cheap arse oil like that and things are going to get a whole lot more expensive for you real soon. At least put oil in within the factory reccomendation if you must go cheap mineral oil. Mind you with the sludge minerals leave behind you best flush the engine oil every change to be sure (there goes your saving).

If this costs too much for you then sell your car or get comfortable with the idea that sooner or later your money is going to run out when something breaks.

Welcome to performance car ownership the land of high maintenence costs! :P

7yphon - Alot of oil feed problems could be nailed down to oil and it's filtration. Oil feed problems cause head failures, oil pump failures, bearing failures.. the list goes on..

In short - if you're running your car hard and you're skimping on oil and filter quality then as Rev said - it's going to get real expensive real quick.

Cheap oil and filters are made for N/A lasers and excels, not turbo engines..

I will only ever buy a Nissan filter and 5W/40 or 5W/50 oil. I just bought Mobil 1 5W/50 when the supercheap sale was on and that was $52. $100.15 all up for the fluids/filter/cleaners/flushes and stuff I bought.

While we are on cheap stuff....

Make sure you use nissan spec coolant, it has the 10mg/100 benzo-thingo additive for corrosion/cavitation. There are other brands (castrol) who make this spec but, they are all about the same price (expensive).

Use other stuff and your motor is in for serious issues.

Topaz if that was your bill I'm not sure you ended up with the right coolant, from memory it's about $40 for 4 or 5L.

Topaz if that was your bill I'm not sure you ended up with the right coolant, from memory it's about $40 for 4 or 5L.

I bought ultra cool and 5L of demineralised water...I will have to check the benzo ratio when I get home....

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