Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

I was just wondering if I have everything I need to put my new turbo on my car and also any advice with the max level of boost I should be running etc..

Current Mods:

Hks Cat-Back, Trust Front pipe

APEXi Filter

Tomei Fuel-pump

Greddy Profec A EBC

FMIC (chinacopy)

D2 coilovers

Heavy Duty Clutch

17inch rims with Potenza GIII 235

Parts on there way/Not on the car yet:

Nismo 740cc Injectors

PFC

Z32 AFM

SplitFire coil-packs

HKS gt2835 Pro S kit (hks dump, hks induction kit etc etc)

Here come my question ;)

-Do I need a Fuel regulator?

-I was thinking of adding a Tomei Head-Gasket to the list to lower the compression and maybe a manifold- I have not been able to find a good low-mount, non-gate manifold for the rb25 (is this needed or can I do it later?)

-What is the safety max level of boost I can run before I starting putting excesses stress on my engine?

-Would aiming for around 300-330rwhp and a safe (rich) tune be the go to keep my engine alive?

-Once I have install the PFC + injectors + z32, is there something I must do so that I can drive the car to get tune (e.g. what do I setup on the pfc so the car will go)

Any other input, would be much appreciated

Thanks Michael :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101859-hks-gt2835-pro-s-built-up-r33/
Share on other sites

1) stock fuel reg is fine

2) get one made then, but its not something you "have" to get

3 & 4) Not a question of boost really... 260/270rwkw is generally accepted as the limit for a stocker motor. Your 240rwkw/330rwhp is easily safe, just get it tuned right and your fine. Doesnt have to be overtly "rich" or whatever. Just a solid no ping tune.

5) ugh... search button there. Few settings you'll need to change i think, its been covered before by someone doing the same thing... but stuffed if i can remember when

Should be a solid street package. Very responsive to drive indeed

Oh, also other things

if you get a chance measure pressure drop before/after cooler.

Just incase the china copy is a little dodge ;)

Measuring the pressure will show-up if its a restriction right away.

you wont need splitfire coils unless yours are stuffed. Save the cash and buy them when yours die, they could last another few years :(

nismo 740's definately gonna flow enough, 555 or something would be better as thats all you'll need with that setup

thanks Nismoid,

well do the search about the pfc ;)

My coilpacks are dieing, im running 0.4gap on my spark-plugs and if i boost above 0.6bar, i get major missfire :S

I through the nismo 740cc injectors may be overkill by they are like only 4000yen ($55) more than the 555cc , so might as well :(

thanks again for the quick and very helpful reply :)

be sure to get your suspension and tyre setup looked into as well, with that sort of power you will certainly fry tyres with stock camber setup. the result is in the inner 10cms of tread bald and outer 15cms perfect traction left, as when you dump it the rear end squats and the tyres will sag inwards and only wear on the contact area. will result in quick tyre wear and only utilising say %50 of tyres width

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=95914&hl=2835

^^ you should probably have a read of that thread, too.

A quick (but related) question - i too have 740cc injectors about to go in, they are waaay overkill for my setup i know. i mainly got them as i know i'll get a larger turbo one day soonish.

what are the adverse effects? some shops are telling me the idle and low-load economy will be suffering. and a few others say it's not a big issue. hrmmm........

i was using 740's also ;)

i had no problems. Just saying if he hasnt purchased them, or thought there were "needed" that they arent.

But are good insurance, and stuff all extra if you plan on going bigger later on :(

My idle with 740cc/PowerFC was exactly the same as stock. YOu'd never know it has 740's in there. Fuel economy was a little worse, but then i had changed to a larger turbo than what i had among other things so for me economy i would say was fine.

Anyone who says you will have problems with idle doesnt know what they are doing, and i certainly wouldnt be taking my car there if they cant get something simple like that correct.

cheers -ash

Thanks Ash. That's reassuring to know.

My car is getting Racepaced in a few days, so i'm not terribly worried. Excited, though - yes! ;) looking forward to seeing what my humble GTRS is capable of...

Edited by Beeble
  • 3 months later...

just an update :)

pfc, afm and injectors are need..

waiting for my gasket from hks, should be here in the next few weeks then its off to the tuners to hopfully smash out a 350rwhp on a tied old rb25 with 100,000km+

also looking to install my antilag system this weekend if i get the time :P

2835 Pro S doesn't need anti lag. What it does need is money spent on the wastegate/boost controller.

You'll never need 740cc injectors with that set up either, 555's are heaps.

Go for a drive in a 2835 equipped car before you spend the dollars.

Traction and boost control are the 2-worries, certainly not lag.

I have HKS 2835 Pro S in my R33 GTS-T.. with PFC + 740 nismos, plasmaman FMIC + plenum, etc.

I invested in Turbosmart e-boost2... these are excellent.

I'm getting TEIN type flex coilovers + Kaaz 1.5 way LSD to fix the traction problem...

Yes, you'll absolutely love the turbo.

I have HKS 2835 Pro S in my R33 GTS-T.. with PFC + 740 nismos, plasmaman FMIC + plenum, etc.

I invested in Turbosmart e-boost2... these are excellent.

I'm getting TEIN type flex coilovers + Kaaz 1.5 way LSD to fix the traction problem...

Yes, you'll absolutely love the turbo.

awsome, how much power are you making?

im going to get a 2way Kaaz lsd very soon, as i use the car for drifting and well the stock lsd just wont cut it i think hehhe.

ohh and i found coilovers made a heap of difference to my handleing :D

Busky2k: are you saying that they wont help at all?

Although I am no suspension expert, the stiffer springs and shocks can reduce the weight transfer upon launching ie less rear squat. But its not a dead end for sure, getting the correct camber, toe and tyres can affect traction in a huge way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...