Jump to content
SAU Community

Where do you work?  

141 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Dudes, is owning the Lineskys really that much?

Boostkid, I started working at Target. I've been at Uni since I was 17.

Now I work in Promotions as a shift supervisor, as a Casual. (Easily less than 20hrs/pw.

Still at uni doing Design (Hopefully to Design the cars of the future)

All my cars were bought with my own raised legitimate money. All with cash.

First car- Gloss black 77 TA23 Celica with 3TGTE.

Then i got a lancer. Then imported a 300zx. Then got an Mx5. Then got a 180sx. Now im waiting on my R32 GTS-t

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I work like a slave as a second class bitch on I.T.

EDIT: thought I better add a bit more...I am 21 and had the R for about 8 months now. I don't have any other commitments other than getting drunk on weekends :). A few of you have just reminded me, I haven't changed my oil in about 7 months :D (8,000k's@mo)

maccas do pay OK.  way better than hungry jack's that's for sure.

Also maccas is good on a resume.

I'm at target cos I have a retail cert 2. and I like the people in my store and the experience I get.  Hours are good and pay is ok.

I made 480 bucks in one week and i'm 17 just because I did 2 full public holiday shifts :D

im a delivery driver, i was at school. hopefully ill get in this year at tafe! i only do 20 hours work and get paid $400 but i use about $70 a week on fuel... but i work 6 days a week coz i work only afew hours at night.

I work in an office for an insurance broker. I'm 21, permanent full time. And I have an R32 GTR. Had it for just under a year.

I change my oil every 10,000 km's :P hahaha. Oil changes are cheap as if you do it yourself lang....

My fuel budget per fortnight is $200. Most of that is taken up driving to and from work (65km's a day in the R), but it also allows me generally 1 cruise a fortnight and a bit of running around on the weekends. I think the only way I can afford my car on my wage is because I am very good with money & budgeting.

I did work at Woolworths when I had my MX-6 Turbo, my S13 Silvia and my old R32 Skyline.

I now work at a wholesale distributor and bought a TE Cortina with a 1JZGTE, I still have that as well as a R32 with a stroked RB25DET, and for my daily driver I have a KE70 Corolla.

The only way I can afford to keep them all is I stay casual, as the pay is about $90 a week more then full time. I have never had a holiday in my life (time off I mean) because if I don't work I don't get paid. The overtime is good $30p/h for time and a half and double time $40 really makes me happy. However there is no guaranteed overtime so I take as much I as can get when it comes up.

I am going to change professions in about a week though, and become a driving instructor. This should see me paying off at least one of my loans. Then it’s house time for me, all the while I am living at home with someone else (tenant) paying off most of the home loan I hope.

haha i was kidding, i do do it myself every 4000km

Lol. I thought it was a bit pov haha. VERY glad it was a joke....If I changed my oil every 4000km's I would get about 2 months out of it!! I do about 500km's a week :D

3rd year apprentice sparky! im 20.... saving for about a year and a half for my 33gts-t...it was so worth it!! everyday when i wake up for work all i have to do is think of the drive there and im happy...but i have also spent about the same on investments as i hav on my car....so i guess u could say ive been a little bit "sensible".....lol :(

My GTR is only a Toy and in the last 12 months I have done about 6000kms in it.

(In which time it has had 3 oil Changes!)

I own it outright, as well as my 2002 TJ Magna

I am not good with money, and have wasted absolutely Thousands of $$$$ on cars since getting my license, I Have had well over 30 cars, infact the only reason I own both cars now is 'Time' as I myself am well over 30! :P

(Dont laugh it comes around pretty quick, before you know it you'll be 30 to :):( )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...