Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got a series 2 PM35 and I can tell you now that getting a new valve body isn't as easy as it seems. It might just be that I'm in the NT but my valve body has died on me and it's been a massive job trying to find a new valve body for the car.

Only recently I found out that the valve body in a pm35 box has a mechatronic unit that needs to be programmed with the vehicles VIN number to work. Next was trying to find a new valve body assembly, couldn't find a shop in australia that could sell me one to suit my car. I finally found a company in Vic that had a contact in Japan, they found the part number I needed however nissan don't sell the valve body assembly anymore. The contact in Japan is now going to the manufacturers of the valve body and asking if it would be possible to get 1 more unit made.

I don't know if anyone else has had this problem before but it's definitely putting me off keeping my stagea.

I doubt anyone else would care much, as they would simply fit a second hand box or repair the one they had.

I don't get what the issue is, it's a 10 year old car after all, and I am sure your box only has a small issue needing repair. You don't buy a rare JDM import and expect gearboxes to be in stock locally, or any parts for that matter.

I would go a second hand box if there was someone here that could program the mechatronic unit. Nissan have told me they don't want to program anything unless I buy the whole box from them

I would go a second hand box if there was someone here that could program the mechatronic unit. Nissan have told me they don't want to program anything unless I buy the whole box from them

I think they call that blackmail.

Is this reprogramming the mechtronic really a thing. Sounds like the biggest load of shit. Maybe if you were trying to put a box from a different model car. But surely if you are putting in a second hand stagea box it will be all good. Maybe I am wrong, but just doesn't sound right.

^That's what I thought, sounds like the perfect time to go manual. If you're lashing out a ton of cash you might as well get some fun out of it once the dust settles.

Was highly considering going manual but would be a massive stuff around changing the foot handbrake to a normal one. Also getting a manual centre console and dash to fit from a v35 might not fit

I never understood how people claim the Autobox in the turbo 33 and 34 skylines are "good up to 300kw". All 3 I've owned have had slip on a completely stock car just with a boost increase to 10 psi. At 7psi they hold, any more than that I can feel the engine pulling more than the actual car is accelerating. People say just buy a new auto box they are cheap but the used ones do the same thing. Maybe I was unlucky or maybe people just cant tell when a auto box is slipping and just think its "good". It will last for many years slipping but you are just wasting power not putting it to the wheels.

It seems pointless to me to just keep throwing stock auto boxes in unless the car is completely stock power wise. The only thing I haven't tried is one with a shift kit, but I was quoted over $1500 to have one installed and at the time it was cheaper to just replace it with a used one but doesn't seem to be the case as you are just spending money for the same problem. The clutch packs in the stock auto box just don't hold on hard enough imo. Afterwards I figured shift kit actually press the clutches together harder thus allowing more power to be transferred to the wheels and preventing wearing out the clutch packs. I think I figured this out too late as I assumed shift kit just makes the autobox transition from one gear to the next faster, i.e "slam the gears", not able to make it hold more power. If that's the case this is how they should come factory as in stock form the they are really lax.

I never understood how people claim the Autobox in the turbo 33 and 34 skylines are "good up to 300kw". All 3 I've owned have had slip on a completely stock car just with a boost increase to 10 psi. At 7psi they hold, any more than that I can feel the engine pulling more than the actual car is accelerating. People say just buy a new auto box they are cheap but the used ones do the same thing. Maybe I was unlucky or maybe people just cant tell when a auto box is slipping and just think its "good". It will last for many years slipping but you are just wasting power not putting it to the wheels.

It seems pointless to me to just keep throwing stock auto boxes in unless the car is completely stock power wise. The only thing I haven't tried is one with a shift kit, but I was quoted over $1500 to have one installed and at the time it was cheaper to just replace it with a used one but doesn't seem to be the case as you are just spending money for the same problem. The clutch packs in the stock auto box just don't hold on hard enough imo. Afterwards I figured shift kit actually press the clutches together harder thus allowing more power to be transferred to the wheels and preventing wearing out the clutch packs. I think I figured this out too late as I assumed shift kit just makes the autobox transition from one gear to the next faster, i.e "slam the gears", not able to make it hold more power. If that's the case this is how they should come factory as in stock form the they are really lax.

If the clutches and bands are genuinely slipping, its hard to imagine it lasting years in that state. You'd be wearing the friction material off, like riding the clutch in a manual.

There is lucky to be half a mm of material on the clutches, one good slip and she's toast in most cases. I know as I have been there twice now, and building an auto isn't cheap.

A shift kit is like increasing the tension on a manual clutch pressure plate springs, much less likely to slip, but when it does there is even more heat involved. A built box includes placing extra clutch plates (power clutch packs) to help increase the surface area, similar to installing a twin plate manual clutch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...