Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am thinking about going to a turbo upgrade.

At the moment this is what is done to the car:

- POD

- Brass button clutch

- 3" from the turbo

- Short Shift kit

- FMIC

This is what i plan to do after the turbo upgrade:

- Injectors

- Cams

- Fuel Pump

- Power FC

- Suspension

What turbo would you suggest and what price is it ruffly.

I have been told with the stock turbo and some modz i cant get anymore than 220RWKW.

I want between 250RWKW and 350RWKW, so please advise the right turbo and modz for my needs.

-SINDOWS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103351-r33-turbo-upgrade/
Share on other sites

When i planed my turbo upgrade, i wanted it to look as std as possible so i bought a 2nd hand hi-flowed R33 turbo and fitted the VG30 exhaust housing (a R34 hiflow is equivalent and doesn't need the VG30 housing)

My mod list includes variations of all your above mentioned items but i also had my head "race ported". Even though this has given me more flow, i now realise that it also has made the combo a little laggier, but i have no regrets ;).

End result: 270rwkw@15psi

Standard bottom end; so we stopped tunning at 15psi, then lowered it to 13-14psi to make a reliable 250rwkw and fine tuned the setup at this level.

theres a massive difference between 250rwk and 350rwkw so you should think carefully before deciding, the cost difference is around 10k.

250rwkw it would go for hks gt-rs or garret equiv, z32 afm, 550cc inj, powerfc, heavy duty clutch, tyres, suspension work, cold air intake, intercooler, boost controller, 3.5" split dump zorst and cat back

for 350rwkw it beyond the safe internal limit for rb25

so youll need to open it up to safely make that power.

ie: cams, pistons, injectors

you need a larger turbo (more and more lag)

with forged pistons, cams most likely

bigger clutch, better suspension work

and so on

as the power graph increases linerally the cost graph increases exponentially.

Im new to this and was just wondering what mods id need to fit a Garret T28 to my R33 GTS25t (RB25DET) without ending up damaging the engine ie-FMIC,Boost controller etc planning on having all these but wondering wether its safe to do them one at a time or wait and have it all done at the same time, my stock turbos on the way out so was thinking of fitting the turbo first and the rest later is this wise/safe any feedback would be apreciated

T28 isnt bolt on.

Better to purchase one that it IMO. Ease of installation saves costs.

Please search for more info on upgrades and what you need

OR read these threads below, all the info you need is in the second link for supporting mods.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=55845

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=66556

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...