Jump to content
SAU Community

[NOT FOR SALE 11/8/17] Top Quality Dash mats - Bulk Buy


Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have contacts with the Protectomat company. They have a very good reputation at making the best dash mats available.

They do not have a mold for the R32, But I am prepared to leave my car with them for them to make a mold.

If we can get a group of us together interested in R32/R33 dashmats, then we can get the mats cheaper. ~$48.00 instead of $70.00

I have had a problem with my dash, it's started to bubble in the sun and this is very common in the R32s. I would suggest to get a dashmat. These ones are very good quality and can even make the dash look better. They are moulded perfectly and always fit.

Please let me know if anyone is interested.

 

Sorry guys. I can't get the exact picture of one, because it will be custom molded on my car (R32).

Here is a link to their website though:

http://www.protectomat.com.au

I'll be getting one for my car, because my dash has already bubbled in places and the centre air vent is half broken and has popped out (NOT HAPPY). I'm told this is a common problem(?)

I had one of these dash mats in the good ol' Camry (Its not a grandpa car with out a dash mat). It never slipped around and was stuck by had valcrow(spelling?). This let me take the mat in and out. Although I never did.

If you've got the money and you want a real pro job, they can do a custom-pro fit. That will cost $120.00 and they'll need your car over night. You won't buy anything better then that.

You can buy different colours, Grey/Blue/Black etc. You Perth guys can even go see their showroom. Just see the website for more details. Don't talk to anyone about our group buy, because it's a bit of a hush hush secret. As i mensioned earlier, they will be around $48.00 each, and maybe cheaper. Depending on how many orders I can get.

For now i just ask for expression of interest and deffinate orders. Once I have enough orders, i'll let everyone know of the exact cost.

Jay95R33

Cheers for the post. I know meercat personally and I'm going to give him a call. I didn't know he was organising this too.

I thought I was getting a good deal, But I will make phone calls tomorrow.

Sorry about this guys. I'll investigate.

Erh, I didn't know he organised it last year.

He went with the Shevron mats. They aren't as good as the protomat's. Actually those mats look like crap!!

The guy i work with use to work for Protectomat. I will talk to him tomorrow and say that someone got the same deal we did and i'll go negociate some better prices.

No worries.

I'm not sure about the R33 ones, I think the passengers side of the dash is big and bland and needs something there, or something to break it up. Maybe if the dash mat didn't go right down it would look better ??? Not sure..

But I think black would be much better than the grey.

BTW: that post on SDU is really old... Like mega old.. :P

Jay95R33,

Yes i noticed it was old after i read it properly :P

I'm going to the call the guys tomorrow and find out if they can do a better deal and if the mat is any better.

I'll put some pics up of my dash. Then you'll know why i'm getting a dash mat.

Hey guys Protectomat already have dash mats for the R33 Series I and II as I got one from them late last year. They aren't listed on their website so I emailed them and they keep them in stock. Would assume they have R32 ones as well.

Mine fits perfectly on the Series II and has a cut out for the air bag. My olds bought it for me for Xmas so not sure on price.

If you get one be sure to fit it with lots of velcro otherwise it slides off when you take off rather spiritedly.

Cheers, Al

Jay I will see what I can organise - don't have a digital camera (only a digital video) but will see if I can borrow one.

It is basically the dash mat with slits in it that go over where the airbag is, so if the air bag cover goes up, the mat sort of opens up - looks a bit funny but covers it well

Cheers, Al

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...