Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, the plan in a nutshell:

'bolt-on' a turbo to stock RB25DE engine - run about 5-7 PSI for now

Plan:

Buy exhaust manifold, turbo and replace current manifold

It should run with a boost controller and FMIC

Problem:

I need to feed the oil/water lines to/from the turbo - rather than getting holes tapped into the engine block etc the plan is to pick up the lines from other locations under the bonnet. I've had a look and can't find any info on exactly where would be suitable places to tap into the oil/water lines with success.

Someone mentioned ages ago that some Greedy/Trust bolt on packages took the oil/water from elsewhere - yet I can't find any info online etc on how exactly they do it.

Thanks guys

BTW: if anyone can see any problems with the plan let me know and we can chat about it :rolleyes:

Edited by gatty
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104161-help-me-to-feed-the-turbo/
Share on other sites

Isn't it in the how to turbo your N/A thead?

If not, I'm interested too.

And I was wondering...

How much on average would it cost to simply get the rb25det engine swap? Would anything else need to be included?

If someone could write up a guide for this, whether it be half cuts, engines what ever, I and alot of other would greatly appreciate it :rolleyes:

rather then trying to mod SAU hows about you leave that to the mods :)

users such as DAN666 etc frequent this forum, and user such as dan have lots of experiance with this - the motor is also a RB25DE - and the turbo section is full of "i am running 30PSI why is my fuel cutting out"

there have been similar threads here ages ago

im not trying to be a prick, its just that putting it in the turbo forum it could lead to more and better replies from people that have done it

but yes u r right about dan666 and the likes of him, good help he is

(ohh i think a bigger fuel pump and lowering the boost would probably help lol :);) )

no need for FMIC with 5psi, in fact with a FMIC the throttle response will be worse, use the stocker SMIC or don't use any at all. a FMIC *will* make it respond worse and add more throttle lag. The stock ecu can't see boost as it has no map sensor, the stock map sensor only feeds the stock boost gauge so it will be OK ish with say 5psi.

you must check your AFR's and make sure the tune is safe and have a competent tuner / mechanic and not just some rookie and you bolt shit on and hope for the best. be very careful and it should be ok. fuel pump may need to be upgraded. my gtst 33 is on ebay for $15 if u want it

you do realise however it would be far more sensisble to sell your car and buy a gtst however? much more resale value, all the stock parts work out of the box and there are no unknowns, plus you can change to a series 2 even if you like

also what are you basing injectors wont be needed comment off? what size are n/a injectors? gtst ones are 370cc so youll need to check in a fuel capacity calculator to see if the stock ones are ok, i would imagine at 5psi it should be. not sure how the stock ecu will handle the extra airflow coming in, it may have some cut protection like the gtst ecu, but you shouldnt hitting it on 5psi.

note 5psi is really jack all, but will go quiet nicely on the rb25de as it will run different compresion

i dont believe that to be the case at all for the r33. the er34 ecu has lots more proteciotn and feature built in that the ecr33 ecu doesnt have.

i think it should fine, again ill resay it

the ecr33 ecu does not know what pressure is in the manifold.

all it can see is the airflow meter and nothing else.

no boost pressure, no map sensor, no manifold pressure

I did this conversion 7-8 months ago now.

you will probably have to run a gtst ecu, possibly get bigger injectors (probably more for safety sake.. u dont want to be boosting and its not getting enough fuel, causing knocking or somethin or other, cause BYE BYE engine real quick that starts happening!)

paulr33, im running an FMIC.. (and quite a large one at that)

and the throttle response is quite fine, I pretty much have boost instantly due to the high compression cams etc that are on the car.

He shouldnt have any lag as such as because of the high compression, we have more torque, and also a different torque curve than a turbo.

I know with my car (to me) i cant even feel when the boost is coming on at all, its VERY responsive.

OK take the oil feed from the oil pressure location by fitting a T-piece, run the return into your sump (take it off to fit a return connection for a hose through the side wall) The water feed can come from your heater hoses system (ie feed and return for the heater core)

Illusive - Can't remember if you told me or not, but are you still using the stock N/A injectors? They're only 270cc and the fuel pressure behind them isn't enough to keep up with the boost, when my car first had the turbo put on and we were transporting it with the N/A inejctors and pump fitted, it would attempt to stall if I was a bit happy with my right foot.

Once the 386cc injectors from a GTT were fitted it was fine, except for overfuelling, which the e-manage sorted out.

The N/A computer doesn't actually freak out because of the boost, it just see's a large number coming from the AFM tries to compensate but just doesn't have the supporting systems = shits itself. I never actually got it to fully stall though.

Have you got details and pics of your setup?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...