Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, the plan in a nutshell:

'bolt-on' a turbo to stock RB25DE engine - run about 5-7 PSI for now

Plan:

Buy exhaust manifold, turbo and replace current manifold

It should run with a boost controller and FMIC

Problem:

I need to feed the oil/water lines to/from the turbo - rather than getting holes tapped into the engine block etc the plan is to pick up the lines from other locations under the bonnet. I've had a look and can't find any info on exactly where would be suitable places to tap into the oil/water lines with success.

Someone mentioned ages ago that some Greedy/Trust bolt on packages took the oil/water from elsewhere - yet I can't find any info online etc on how exactly they do it.

Thanks guys

BTW: if anyone can see any problems with the plan let me know and we can chat about it :rolleyes:

Edited by gatty
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104161-help-me-to-feed-the-turbo/
Share on other sites

Isn't it in the how to turbo your N/A thead?

If not, I'm interested too.

And I was wondering...

How much on average would it cost to simply get the rb25det engine swap? Would anything else need to be included?

If someone could write up a guide for this, whether it be half cuts, engines what ever, I and alot of other would greatly appreciate it :rolleyes:

rather then trying to mod SAU hows about you leave that to the mods :)

users such as DAN666 etc frequent this forum, and user such as dan have lots of experiance with this - the motor is also a RB25DE - and the turbo section is full of "i am running 30PSI why is my fuel cutting out"

there have been similar threads here ages ago

im not trying to be a prick, its just that putting it in the turbo forum it could lead to more and better replies from people that have done it

but yes u r right about dan666 and the likes of him, good help he is

(ohh i think a bigger fuel pump and lowering the boost would probably help lol :);) )

no need for FMIC with 5psi, in fact with a FMIC the throttle response will be worse, use the stocker SMIC or don't use any at all. a FMIC *will* make it respond worse and add more throttle lag. The stock ecu can't see boost as it has no map sensor, the stock map sensor only feeds the stock boost gauge so it will be OK ish with say 5psi.

you must check your AFR's and make sure the tune is safe and have a competent tuner / mechanic and not just some rookie and you bolt shit on and hope for the best. be very careful and it should be ok. fuel pump may need to be upgraded. my gtst 33 is on ebay for $15 if u want it

you do realise however it would be far more sensisble to sell your car and buy a gtst however? much more resale value, all the stock parts work out of the box and there are no unknowns, plus you can change to a series 2 even if you like

also what are you basing injectors wont be needed comment off? what size are n/a injectors? gtst ones are 370cc so youll need to check in a fuel capacity calculator to see if the stock ones are ok, i would imagine at 5psi it should be. not sure how the stock ecu will handle the extra airflow coming in, it may have some cut protection like the gtst ecu, but you shouldnt hitting it on 5psi.

note 5psi is really jack all, but will go quiet nicely on the rb25de as it will run different compresion

i dont believe that to be the case at all for the r33. the er34 ecu has lots more proteciotn and feature built in that the ecr33 ecu doesnt have.

i think it should fine, again ill resay it

the ecr33 ecu does not know what pressure is in the manifold.

all it can see is the airflow meter and nothing else.

no boost pressure, no map sensor, no manifold pressure

I did this conversion 7-8 months ago now.

you will probably have to run a gtst ecu, possibly get bigger injectors (probably more for safety sake.. u dont want to be boosting and its not getting enough fuel, causing knocking or somethin or other, cause BYE BYE engine real quick that starts happening!)

paulr33, im running an FMIC.. (and quite a large one at that)

and the throttle response is quite fine, I pretty much have boost instantly due to the high compression cams etc that are on the car.

He shouldnt have any lag as such as because of the high compression, we have more torque, and also a different torque curve than a turbo.

I know with my car (to me) i cant even feel when the boost is coming on at all, its VERY responsive.

OK take the oil feed from the oil pressure location by fitting a T-piece, run the return into your sump (take it off to fit a return connection for a hose through the side wall) The water feed can come from your heater hoses system (ie feed and return for the heater core)

Illusive - Can't remember if you told me or not, but are you still using the stock N/A injectors? They're only 270cc and the fuel pressure behind them isn't enough to keep up with the boost, when my car first had the turbo put on and we were transporting it with the N/A inejctors and pump fitted, it would attempt to stall if I was a bit happy with my right foot.

Once the 386cc injectors from a GTT were fitted it was fine, except for overfuelling, which the e-manage sorted out.

The N/A computer doesn't actually freak out because of the boost, it just see's a large number coming from the AFM tries to compensate but just doesn't have the supporting systems = shits itself. I never actually got it to fully stall though.

Have you got details and pics of your setup?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...