Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, the plan in a nutshell:

'bolt-on' a turbo to stock RB25DE engine - run about 5-7 PSI for now

Plan:

Buy exhaust manifold, turbo and replace current manifold

It should run with a boost controller and FMIC

Problem:

I need to feed the oil/water lines to/from the turbo - rather than getting holes tapped into the engine block etc the plan is to pick up the lines from other locations under the bonnet. I've had a look and can't find any info on exactly where would be suitable places to tap into the oil/water lines with success.

Someone mentioned ages ago that some Greedy/Trust bolt on packages took the oil/water from elsewhere - yet I can't find any info online etc on how exactly they do it.

Thanks guys

BTW: if anyone can see any problems with the plan let me know and we can chat about it :rolleyes:

Edited by gatty
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104161-help-me-to-feed-the-turbo/
Share on other sites

Isn't it in the how to turbo your N/A thead?

If not, I'm interested too.

And I was wondering...

How much on average would it cost to simply get the rb25det engine swap? Would anything else need to be included?

If someone could write up a guide for this, whether it be half cuts, engines what ever, I and alot of other would greatly appreciate it :rolleyes:

rather then trying to mod SAU hows about you leave that to the mods :)

users such as DAN666 etc frequent this forum, and user such as dan have lots of experiance with this - the motor is also a RB25DE - and the turbo section is full of "i am running 30PSI why is my fuel cutting out"

there have been similar threads here ages ago

im not trying to be a prick, its just that putting it in the turbo forum it could lead to more and better replies from people that have done it

but yes u r right about dan666 and the likes of him, good help he is

(ohh i think a bigger fuel pump and lowering the boost would probably help lol :);) )

no need for FMIC with 5psi, in fact with a FMIC the throttle response will be worse, use the stocker SMIC or don't use any at all. a FMIC *will* make it respond worse and add more throttle lag. The stock ecu can't see boost as it has no map sensor, the stock map sensor only feeds the stock boost gauge so it will be OK ish with say 5psi.

you must check your AFR's and make sure the tune is safe and have a competent tuner / mechanic and not just some rookie and you bolt shit on and hope for the best. be very careful and it should be ok. fuel pump may need to be upgraded. my gtst 33 is on ebay for $15 if u want it

you do realise however it would be far more sensisble to sell your car and buy a gtst however? much more resale value, all the stock parts work out of the box and there are no unknowns, plus you can change to a series 2 even if you like

also what are you basing injectors wont be needed comment off? what size are n/a injectors? gtst ones are 370cc so youll need to check in a fuel capacity calculator to see if the stock ones are ok, i would imagine at 5psi it should be. not sure how the stock ecu will handle the extra airflow coming in, it may have some cut protection like the gtst ecu, but you shouldnt hitting it on 5psi.

note 5psi is really jack all, but will go quiet nicely on the rb25de as it will run different compresion

i dont believe that to be the case at all for the r33. the er34 ecu has lots more proteciotn and feature built in that the ecr33 ecu doesnt have.

i think it should fine, again ill resay it

the ecr33 ecu does not know what pressure is in the manifold.

all it can see is the airflow meter and nothing else.

no boost pressure, no map sensor, no manifold pressure

I did this conversion 7-8 months ago now.

you will probably have to run a gtst ecu, possibly get bigger injectors (probably more for safety sake.. u dont want to be boosting and its not getting enough fuel, causing knocking or somethin or other, cause BYE BYE engine real quick that starts happening!)

paulr33, im running an FMIC.. (and quite a large one at that)

and the throttle response is quite fine, I pretty much have boost instantly due to the high compression cams etc that are on the car.

He shouldnt have any lag as such as because of the high compression, we have more torque, and also a different torque curve than a turbo.

I know with my car (to me) i cant even feel when the boost is coming on at all, its VERY responsive.

OK take the oil feed from the oil pressure location by fitting a T-piece, run the return into your sump (take it off to fit a return connection for a hose through the side wall) The water feed can come from your heater hoses system (ie feed and return for the heater core)

Illusive - Can't remember if you told me or not, but are you still using the stock N/A injectors? They're only 270cc and the fuel pressure behind them isn't enough to keep up with the boost, when my car first had the turbo put on and we were transporting it with the N/A inejctors and pump fitted, it would attempt to stall if I was a bit happy with my right foot.

Once the 386cc injectors from a GTT were fitted it was fine, except for overfuelling, which the e-manage sorted out.

The N/A computer doesn't actually freak out because of the boost, it just see's a large number coming from the AFM tries to compensate but just doesn't have the supporting systems = shits itself. I never actually got it to fully stall though.

Have you got details and pics of your setup?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have no hard data to report, but I have to say, having driven it to work and back all week, mostly on wet roads (and therefore mostly not able to contemplate anything too outrageous anywhere)..... it is real good. I turned the boost controller on, with duty cycle set to 10% (which may not be enough to actually increase the boost), and the start boost set to 15 psi. That should keep the gate unpressurised until at least 15 psi. And rolling at 80 in 5th, which is <2k rpm, going to WOT sees the MAP go +ve even before it crosses 2k and it has >5 psi by the time it hits 90 km/h. That's still <<2.5k rpm, so I think it's actually doing really well. Because of all the not-quite-ideal things that have been in place since the turbo first went on, it felt laggy. It's actually not. The response appears to be as good as you could hope for with a highflow.
    • Or just put in a 1JZ, and sell me the NEO head 😎
    • Oh, it's been done. You just run a wire out there and back. But they have been known to do coolant temp sensors, MAP sensors, etc. They're not silly (at Regency Park) and know what's what with all the different cars.
    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
×
×
  • Create New...