Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmmm Got my Metallic Red R33 GTS-T through them over a year and a half ago - There was a dent on the rear left panel just below the wing.

Cost me $600 to repair - and being a red car with some minor paint fade - the repair matched the top of the cars colour but not the bumper so now I have a slighlty silver pink look in that area next to a solid red bumper - looks crap...

Also the side mirrors looked like they had been swapped with a very crapped out car - paint worn off completely - not matching the fade of my car at all... got these re-sprayed as well...

I did not bother with chasing Kiwi up at all as I thought it would be to hard to prove when the damage had occured - to many people handle your car between buying it and receiving it...

(Trucking, warfies, shipping, warfies, trucking, compliance, trucking)

So I just paid the bills and left it at that :P

Might go with the alternative shippers this time though after reading this... as I thought it was just a bit of bad luck... My next car will be my 5th import...

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have just imported my Evo 3 with KIWI/Seaway and had no problems at all. Tony in Adelaide and Haley in Brisbane were great and the guy here in Japan at KIWI, Sakaue-san was excellent as well. No damage to the car and everything was sorted out quickly.

Now, who wants to buy it?

  • 2 months later...

Dodgybrooks - GL with the EVO III, I'm thinking to buy one too. Let me know how you go. Any roof rust problems with yours? I've seen a couple with pretty major rust in the roof. Also they are hard to find in good nick - most are well thrashed.

I've had a pretty good run with Kiwi till my last two cars. One had the gear knob flogged and the other all the car contents (wheels, turbo manifold - brakes). No one will verify seeing the goods in the car so it could have gone missing in Japan who knows! Anyway Kiwi were pretty helpful but it didn't lead to anything. Might look at using K line next time - does anyone have a contact no. in Japan for them?

Dodgybrooks - GL with the EVO III, I'm thinking to buy one too. Let me know how you go. Any roof rust problems with yours? I've seen a couple with pretty major rust in the roof. Also they are hard to find in good nick - most are well thrashed.

I've had a pretty good run with Kiwi till my last two cars. One had the gear knob flogged and the other all the car contents (wheels, turbo manifold - brakes). No one will verify seeing the goods in the car so it could have gone missing in Japan who knows! Anyway Kiwi were pretty helpful but it didn't lead to anything. Might look at using K line next time - does anyone have a contact no. in Japan for them?

My daughter worked with K-Line in Sydney for three years handling imports,and there was only one complaint and that was from a guy who imported a Supra and left a brand new set of speakers in the boot and they were stolen,bearing in mind Subaru use K-Line and yes WRX and STIs are carried.Ive personally worked in the shipping industry for 20 years, from

Japan you cant beat K-Line or Mitsui and yes like every other industry, complaints and dodgy work the word soon travels throughout the industry,and to clarify all vehicles are secured to the deck from underneath the car no chains are used over the body,if you can imagine a car carrier rolling at 45deg.in a storm and unsecured cars not a pretty sight and yes it does happen.

  • 2 weeks later...

I have just used KIWI?Seaway to bring in my Aristo.

If there are any issues with it when it arrives I will fire bomb there office, kill there children, maime there family members and so on and so on.

your all too soft, if someone f**ks you YOU f**k BACK!

  • 1 month later...

I shipped through kiwi last year to bring over my Series 2 R33. Apart from excessive delivery time and a bit of front bar damage (which i dont blame them for, it was very low), no real problems. Having said that, wouldnt go through them again after hearing all these horror stories!

Cheers, Bart.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...